TUBBIES vs CLINCHER - How sensible on our roads?

[T-Bob]

Here is the Velonews article about rolling resistance, watts and speed across a number of top clincher, tubby and tubeless. 

 

http://velonews.competitor.com/where-the-rubber-meets-the-road-what-makes-cycling-tires-fast

 

I haven't run tubbys for years. Just too much of a hack to be honest. If it's got to have an inner tube then it's got to be GP4000S for me. Didn't puncture in 2 years of training and racing. Same tires for both seasons. Legendary. 

[Prince]

Ok so no tubbies = no Campagnolo Bora's. That's just not an option.

[Underachiever]

Almost like racing with crossmarks lust on a mtb...

Too true.  But you seldom puncture. Not a single mishap in 1x Epic and 2x CPT.

[Underachiever]

Great advice - thank you Furbz

I am 1.93m and and am not built like Johan Vansummeren.

ZIPP 404's look good with a 120kg rider limit.

I am no Strava monkey looking for KOM's. Just a good solid set of wheels.

I will keep my eyes peeled.

Darkhorse 38mm clinchers for about R11k.  You will be pleased.

[Pinarello1]

Ok so no tubbies = no Campagnolo Bora's. That's just not an option.

so true. Don't you get bora clinchers now?

[Christie]

Folks are talking about tubeless Gatorskins. You don't race with Gatorskins, do you?

 

As someone once said, "Racing on gatorskins is like trying to run a race in wellington boots".

Well said!

Spend R5000 to R10000 ekstra for lighter tubby wheels, then add 100 grams per tyre so that said tyres wont puncture. Ummmmmm?

[Spinnekop]

so true. Don't you get bora clinchers now?

 

You do.

50 and 35mm

[Christie]

so true. Don't you get bora clinchers now?

Full carbon clincher Borats have been on the market for a while.

[Pinarello1]

You do.

50 and 35mm

Anyone have some? How do they compare to the tubbies?

[T-Bob]

I saw a quote from zipp in an article earlier today saying they are focusing on clinchers rather than tubbys for development purposes and future models.

[carbon29er]

With tubeless clinchers tyres as good as they are now there is very little reason to run tubbies. Sure, there is a slight weight penalty over tubbies but on the whole they are cheaper and just absolutely no hassle. I've been riding tuneless clinchers for the past 2 and a bit years without incident, don't even carry a tube on the bike, just a Michelin Stop and Go inflater with sealant.

 

Rolling resistance is lower without a tube and I can run lower pressures than tubed for a bit more comfort. Not being a tubbie I don't need to cure tyres and have the hassle of glueing.

 

I say absolutely no hassle, maybe that's a bit of a fib. Finding valve extenders with removable core for deeper section wheels was a real ball ache.

[Cylon]

I wouldn't bother with tubbies - even in light of the above test.  If you get a wide rim - I 23mm or so, your tire will behave like a tubbie anyway.  Fitting a 25mm tire (if your frame will handle it) reduces the rolling resistance even more.  Big guys need lots of spokes so if you go for the lighter rims make sure you order with enough holes and that you can get hubs to match.  Check out http://www.light-bicycle.com/.  I have built a number of sets from them - including DH wheels and their quality/price is excellent.  They will even supply tubbies if you want to torture yourself!

 

I would love to know your thoughts on how the Light Bicycle road wheels compare to local alternatives such as Dark Horse and Concept Wheels?

[Fast-er]

Look at these -  http://www.veloflex.it/products/corsa25.asp?lang=en

I got myself a set. Had the same question if I should go for Tubbies of Clinchers. But I got the best of both Open Tubby. 

 

Yes they are expensive. But used them this weekend on the fast one race and they are great. Rolling resistance is good. and they feel like tubbies. Problem solved