Transformation to single speed

[Cyclingzak]

I zakar, you asked RE the terminology for chain ring and cog ... please see quick mock up below

[Cyclingzak]

Thanks for picture Hairy much appreciated. One more question.

The arm that puts tension on the chain. I see some bike do not have it. Is it necessary? Im thinking I need it because my wheel can not shift back, but would like to have a clean look without it.

[Cyclingzak]

I zakar, I have the exact same bike and did the SS conversion just last month.

 

Used the rapide kit but had to run a 18T at the rear to stop some slippage when pedalling. Using the SSspecific chain. Works brilliantly.

Using the standard front ring, think it's a 32T. Will later get a NW but doubt it's necessary.

IMG-20160407-WA0015.jpeg

IMG-20160407-WA0017.jpeg

I see you stil hqve bothe the chain rings on in front without a derailleur. Is there a reason for that?

[Bobbo_SA]

I see you stil hqve bothe the chain rings on in front without a derailleur. Is there a reason for that?

Manual granny gear perhaps?

[Steven Knoetze (sk27)]

I see you stil hqve bothe the chain rings on in front without a derailleur. Is there a reason for that?

Not have a crank puller tool is the only reason. Suppose I could always use it pedalling up the Dirtjumping track though.

The 18T is fine. Coming from a 2x8 setup the singlespeed looks neat and clean, no clutter. It has been fine down the Dj track I ride mostly, wolvespruit. May get other rings to play around with ratios. I did try a 17T rear and it would not stop slipping!!

[popcorn_skollie]

Before you spend money on sprockets and spacers. Go around to some local bike shops and ask them for old cassettes. Remove the lock rings and dismantle them. You can choose between tooth sizes to establish which ratios work for you. You can also use the plastic spacers between the cassette sprockets to fill the space where the rest of your cassette use to be on your free body. Like this.

 

http://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/singlespeed/246986d1175115556-single-speed-conversion-advice-dsc02597_103_103.jpg

 

Play around with where you place your sprocket between the spacers to establish a good chain line. Before you get a tensionor. See if you can use your old derailleur for this purpose. Once you've established what size sprocket works for you. Then buy a proper ss kit. With vertical dropouts like the chucker. A NW ring upfront with a tensionor works best.

[Steven Knoetze (sk27)]

Before you spend money on sprockets and spacers. Go around to some local bike shops and ask them for old cassettes. Remove the lock rings and dismantle them. You can choose between tooth sizes to establish which ratios work for you. You can also use the plastic spacers between the cassette sprockets to fill the space where the rest of your cassette use to be on your free body. Like this.

 

http://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/singlespeed/246986d1175115556-single-speed-conversion-advice-dsc02597_103_103.jpg

 

Play around with where you place your sprocket between the spacers to establish a good chain line. Before you get a tensionor. See if you can use your old derailleur for this purpose. Once you've established what size sprocket works for you. Then buy a proper ss kit. With vertical dropouts like the chucker. A NW ring upfront with a tensionor works best.

That ghetto conversion will just leave you with a damaged freehold over time. The SS cogs have a wider 7mm Base to spread the load over a larger surface area. Plus you show me a LBS that will give away spacers, I tried 4 around the Pretoria East area and they all keep them for their own Ss conversions. Funnily enough, each said they would quote me on a conversion kit and have not heard from any of them since. That was a month ago.

There are plenty of hacks for using an old derailleur as a tensioner but for R600 for the complete rapide kit, why bother.

[Cyclingzak]

I wish I could just go around a few lbs. The closest shop to me is about a 5hour drive. I will have to order what I need and ask someone to bring it up to Zambia.

[Hairy]

Ok

 

The arm thingie is a tensioner. Best used on frames that do not have a method of getting the right tension via a horizontal drop out or a EBB.

 

Horizontal drop out is a simple method to tension the chain by "pulling" the wheel back to desired tension and then fastening the wheel. It works.

http://www.roadcyclinguk.com/news/images/bachelor_dropouts_hi.jpg

 

EBB allows for a Bottom Bracket that is in an oversized shell in the frame. This allows the BB, which is off center in the oversized shell, to be rotated around and pull the chain into tension. Once the desired tension is reached, the EBB is locked into place by a bolt system (various designs). It works.

 

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3026/3006768183_42b68f2bd1.jpg?v=0

 

http://wheelsmfg.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/06866988214b6a9b717ef7211319fd38/p/f/pf30-ebb_shimano_5.600px_1.jpghttp://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Niner-ROS9-plus-29+hardtail-mountain-bike07.jpg

 

 

Then assuming you have a standard frame that does not have either of the above, you would use a tensioner to keep the chain in check. There are various kinds, but I prefer the ones as supplied by Rapide to be very good and easy to get the rear wheel off when required. The mechanically fixed rear tensioner (Pic with red pulley wheel below) works, but is a bit of a pain when taking the wheel out.

 

http://www.m-gineering.nl/otherd.jpg

MECHANICALLY FIXED TYPE TENSIONER

 

http://www.velosolo.co.uk/pictures/dscn4307FAQ.jpg

TYPE AS SUPPLIED BY RAPIDE

 

Now with respect to the cog. I would strongly advise you get the Rapide wide based ones. they do not "dig" into or damage your freehub and they last long. The difference between a dedicated SS cog and a std cassette that you break up and use one of the cogs for your SS setup, is that the ex. cassette cogs have ramps machined/forged/pressed into them, that when used as a conventional cassette where you are shifting gears, allow the chain to ramp up or down the cassette. Great for a geared bike, not so great for a single speed.

 

Now some might say this is a negligible point, but I say it is very important, that is if you appreciate keeping some skin on your body. I had a setup with a ex cassette cog, the chain tension must have been fractionally off and when cranking/sprinting out the saddle the forces on the frame would cause it to flex slightly, combined with a little slack in the chain tension resulted in the chain being shifted off the cog (The action was basically the same as if you were shifting gears) and the chain came off.....and so did I, HARD.

[Long Wheel Base]

Ok

 

The arm thingie is a tensioner. Best used on frames that do not have a method of getting the right tension via a horizontal drop out or a EBB.

 

Horizontal drop out is a simple method to tension the chain by "pulling" the wheel back to desired tension and then fastening the wheel. It works.

http://www.roadcyclinguk.com/news/images/bachelor_dropouts_hi.jpg

 

EBB allows for a Bottom Bracket that is in an oversized shell in the frame. This allows the BB, which is off center in the oversized shell, to be rotated around and pull the chain into tension. Once the desired tension is reached, the EBB is locked into place by a bolt system (various designs). It works.

 

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3026/3006768183_42b68f2bd1.jpg?v=0

 

http://wheelsmfg.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/06866988214b6a9b717ef7211319fd38/p/f/pf30-ebb_shimano_5.600px_1.jpghttp://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Niner-ROS9-plus-29+hardtail-mountain-bike07.jpg

 

 

Then assuming you have a standard frame that does not have either of the above, you would use a tensioner to keep the chain in check. There are various kinds, but I prefer the ones as supplied by Rapide to be very good and easy to get the rear wheel off when required. The mechanically fixed rear tensioner (Pic with red pulley wheel below) works, but is a bit of a pain when taking the wheel out.

 

http://www.m-gineering.nl/otherd.jpg

MECHANICALLY FIXED TYPE TENSIONER

 

http://www.velosolo.co.uk/pictures/dscn4307FAQ.jpg

TYPE AS SUPPLIED BY RAPIDE

 

Now with respect to the cog. I would strongly advise you get the Rapide wide based ones. they do not "dig" into or damage your freehub and they last long. The difference between a dedicated SS cog and a std cassette that you break up and use one of the cogs for your SS setup, is that the ex. cassette cogs have ramps machined/forged/pressed into them, that when used as a conventional cassette where you are shifting gears, allow the chain to ramp up or down the cassette. Great for a geared bike, not so great for a single speed.

 

Now some might say this is a negligible point, but I say it is very important, that is if you appreciate keeping some skin on your body. I had a setup with a ex cassette cog, the chain tension must have been fractionally off and when cranking/sprinting out the saddle the forces on the frame would cause it to flex slightly, combined with a little slack in the chain tension resulted in the chain being shifted off the cog (The action was basically the same as if you were shifting gears) and the chain came off.....and so did I, HARD.

Thanks for the info about the ramps and the chain coming off. I never considered that and was going to do that on my SS project. So now I know its not such a good idea

[Cyclingzak]

Ok

 

The arm thingie is a tensioner. Best used on frames that do not have a method of getting the right tension via a horizontal drop out or a EBB.

 

Horizontal drop out is a simple method to tension the chain by "pulling" the wheel back to desired tension and then fastening the wheel. It works.

http://www.roadcyclinguk.com/news/images/bachelor_dropouts_hi.jpg

 

EBB allows for a Bottom Bracket that is in an oversized shell in the frame. This allows the BB, which is off center in the oversized shell, to be rotated around and pull the chain into tension. Once the desired tension is reached, the EBB is locked into place by a bolt system (various designs). It works.

 

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3026/3006768183_42b68f2bd1.jpg?v=0

 

http://wheelsmfg.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/06866988214b6a9b717ef7211319fd38/p/f/pf30-ebb_shimano_5.600px_1.jpghttp://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Niner-ROS9-plus-29+hardtail-mountain-bike07.jpg

 

 

Then assuming you have a standard frame that does not have either of the above, you would use a tensioner to keep the chain in check. There are various kinds, but I prefer the ones as supplied by Rapide to be very good and easy to get the rear wheel off when required. The mechanically fixed rear tensioner (Pic with red pulley wheel below) works, but is a bit of a pain when taking the wheel out.

 

http://www.m-gineering.nl/otherd.jpg

MECHANICALLY FIXED TYPE TENSIONER

 

http://www.velosolo.co.uk/pictures/dscn4307FAQ.jpg

TYPE AS SUPPLIED BY RAPIDE

 

Now with respect to the cog. I would strongly advise you get the Rapide wide based ones. they do not "dig" into or damage your freehub and they last long. The difference between a dedicated SS cog and a std cassette that you break up and use one of the cogs for your SS setup, is that the ex. cassette cogs have ramps machined/forged/pressed into them, that when used as a conventional cassette where you are shifting gears, allow the chain to ramp up or down the cassette. Great for a geared bike, not so great for a single speed.

 

Now some might say this is a negligible point, but I say it is very important, that is if you appreciate keeping some skin on your body. I had a setup with a ex cassette cog, the chain tension must have been fractionally off and when cranking/sprinting out the saddle the forces on the frame would cause it to flex slightly, combined with a little slack in the chain tension resulted in the chain being shifted off the cog (The action was basically the same as if you were shifting gears) and the chain came off.....and so did I, HARD.

Wow thanks for that info and effort much appreciated.

[Steven Knoetze (sk27)]

The EBB or horizontal drop outs is the best. You get add on drop out kits I believe.

I also think you get specialist BB's for standard sizes which have EBB built in. Very pricey though!!

[the nerd]

Best... 

 

[BSG]

Ok

 

The arm thingie is a tensioner. Best used on frames that do not have a method of getting the right tension via a horizontal drop out or a EBB.

 

Horizontal drop out is a simple method to tension the chain by "pulling" the wheel back to desired tension and then fastening the wheel. It works.

http://www.roadcyclinguk.com/news/images/bachelor_dropouts_hi.jpg

 

EBB allows for a Bottom Bracket that is in an oversized shell in the frame. This allows the BB, which is off center in the oversized shell, to be rotated around and pull the chain into tension. Once the desired tension is reached, the EBB is locked into place by a bolt system (various designs). It works.

 

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3026/3006768183_42b68f2bd1.jpg?v=0

 

http://wheelsmfg.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/06866988214b6a9b717ef7211319fd38/p/f/pf30-ebb_shimano_5.600px_1.jpghttp://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Niner-ROS9-plus-29+hardtail-mountain-bike07.jpg

 

 

Then assuming you have a standard frame that does not have either of the above, you would use a tensioner to keep the chain in check. There are various kinds, but I prefer the ones as supplied by Rapide to be very good and easy to get the rear wheel off when required. The mechanically fixed rear tensioner (Pic with red pulley wheel below) works, but is a bit of a pain when taking the wheel out.

 

http://www.m-gineering.nl/otherd.jpg

MECHANICALLY FIXED TYPE TENSIONER

 

http://www.velosolo.co.uk/pictures/dscn4307FAQ.jpg

TYPE AS SUPPLIED BY RAPIDE

 

Now with respect to the cog. I would strongly advise you get the Rapide wide based ones. they do not "dig" into or damage your freehub and they last long. The difference between a dedicated SS cog and a std cassette that you break up and use one of the cogs for your SS setup, is that the ex. cassette cogs have ramps machined/forged/pressed into them, that when used as a conventional cassette where you are shifting gears, allow the chain to ramp up or down the cassette. Great for a geared bike, not so great for a single speed.

 

Now some might say this is a negligible point, but I say it is very important, that is if you appreciate keeping some skin on your body. I had a setup with a ex cassette cog, the chain tension must have been fractionally off and when cranking/sprinting out the saddle the forces on the frame would cause it to flex slightly, combined with a little slack in the chain tension resulted in the chain being shifted off the cog (The action was basically the same as if you were shifting gears) and the chain came off.....and so did I, HARD.

AND THIS CAN CAUSE SERIOUSLY CRACKED NUTZ[emoji33] [emoji85] [emoji599] [emoji603]

[Hairy]

AND THIS CAN CAUSE SERIOUSLY CRACKED NUTZ[emoji33] [emoji85] [emoji599] [emoji603]

breaking a chain can definitely do this and breaking a crank at a sprinting start is a very close second.......let's say I would not like to repeat either of the above again in my life!