NotSoBigBen Posted June 10, 2016 Posted June 10, 2016 Right, especially when the 5 w and 20 w gets mixed......I just sense a nice little bit of exaggerated mythical senses....... Must be fork 'whisperers'
Spoke101 Posted June 10, 2016 Posted June 10, 2016 Right, especially when the 5 w and 20 w gets mixed......I just sense a nice little bit of exaggerated mythical senses....... Could be but 20W gold is easy to tell. The RS 5W vs Fox 10W red not so much.
EmptyB Posted June 10, 2016 Posted June 10, 2016 Like so many have said, take it to someone who knows what they doing. Also learnt the hard way with rear shock!
The expat cyclist Posted June 10, 2016 Author Posted June 10, 2016 The proof are in the pudding: I honestly don't care what was in the fork and what is now in the work... Because it is a completely different behaving fork. Did 82km yesterday with +1000m of climbing and this is now what I expected from a fork. Sorry Rock Shox! I was wrong about you! Ma' bad!
JXV Posted June 10, 2016 Posted June 10, 2016 I find it strange that people get the oil weight and volumes wrong (unless you are experimenting). While I do agree that there are some conflicting publications (I have seen some from the manufacturers themselves) one can normally, by using your grey stuff, work out the recipe. Be careful with the different year models, manufacturers do change things slightly from time to time even on the same models. If you are in doubt about the make of oil then for Fox use Fox and for Rockshox use Rockshox etc and stick to the recommended weights. For the more adventurous other combinations and makes can be tried - sometimes with success and sometimes without, it is fun if that is what you want. Be careful of the opinions on the web - try if yourself, not everyone always gives the right advice. My recommendation to someone wanting to know more before taking it to the shop or wanting to start doing it yourself is to:1) Understand the basics of how a fork works2) Download the tech and service manual from the web (little searching etc but they are there)3) Watch You Tube videos on repair and service4) Get the right tools and understand how to use them, get good tools...5) Order the right kits using the tech manuals, if in doubt phone or mail the agents6) Work clean, very clean7) Be patient, take your time, be careful not to damage parts especially bolts, caps, orings etc 8) Use a torque wrench....for everything....9) If you only need orings get them from a place such as Bearing Man (cheap, cheap)10) Use the correct lubricants - wt and ml I have learnt a lot and have much more to learn still!Good post! the wt rating of oil is a very loose surrogate for its viscosity. Lubricity and other properties can vary widely so it is best to stick close to manuf. specs and oils unless you REALLY know. Example : typical oil for damper cartridges is formulated primarily for anti-foaming properties and stable viscosity across a range of temps...not lubrication....so damper oil makes a poor lubricant for fork lowers. The lowers require a good lubricating oil with high lubricity and a seal swelling agent to keep seals soft and pliable. Hence Fox red 10wt for dampers and 10wt green for lowers...and the blue (approx80wt) for air piston sealing .... and recently the new Gold 20wt for fork lowers which is brilliant stuff, much better than green. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
BaGearA Posted June 10, 2016 Posted June 10, 2016 The proof are in the pudding: I honestly don't care what was in the fork and what is now in the work... Because it is a completely different behaving fork. Did 82km yesterday with +1000m of climbing and this is now what I expected from a fork. Sorry Rock Shox! I was wrong about you! Ma' bad!was those 82 k's on the cotic?
The expat cyclist Posted June 10, 2016 Author Posted June 10, 2016 was those 82 k's on the cotic?Indeed.
droo Posted June 11, 2016 Posted June 11, 2016 Could be but 20W gold is easy to tell. The RS 5W vs Fox 10W red not so much. I'll tell you the difference blindfolded. (Silkolene has a very distinctive smell) I do sense some embellishment on that report, but whoever did it the first time got it properly wrong. Read the instructions, they're freely available. And if you're going to break the rules, understand them first. The main mistake was putting oil in the air spring - RS forks use an o-ring on the main piston seal, and oil under pressure migrates past o-rings - sticky fork in a few hours of riding. Fox use oil in their air springs, but they also use u-cup seals which keep the oil where it should be. The other one was not greasing the wipers. Instant sticky fork.
droo Posted June 11, 2016 Posted June 11, 2016 Good post! the wt rating of oil is a very loose surrogate for its viscosity. Lubricity and other properties can vary widely so it is best to stick close to manuf. specs and oils unless you REALLY know. Example : typical oil for damper cartridges is formulated primarily for anti-foaming properties and stable viscosity across a range of temps...not lubrication....so damper oil makes a poor lubricant for fork lowers. The lowers require a good lubricating oil with high lubricity and a seal swelling agent to keep seals soft and pliable. Hence Fox red 10wt for dampers and 10wt green for lowers...and the blue (approx80wt) for air piston sealing .... and recently the new Gold 20wt for fork lowers which is brilliant stuff, much better than green. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk You, sir, understand. Good info.
droo Posted June 11, 2016 Posted June 11, 2016 I find it strange that people get the oil weight and volumes wrong (unless you are experimenting). While I do agree that there are some conflicting publications (I have seen some from the manufacturers themselves) one can normally, by using your grey stuff, work out the recipe. Be careful with the different year models, manufacturers do change things slightly from time to time even on the same models. If you are in doubt about the make of oil then for Fox use Fox and for Rockshox use Rockshox etc and stick to the recommended weights. For the more adventurous other combinations and makes can be tried - sometimes with success and sometimes without, it is fun if that is what you want. Be careful of the opinions on the web - try if yourself, not everyone always gives the right advice. My recommendation to someone wanting to know more before taking it to the shop or wanting to start doing it yourself is to:1) Understand the basics of how a fork works2) Download the tech and service manual from the web (little searching etc but they are there)3) Watch You Tube videos on repair and service4) Get the right tools and understand how to use them, get good tools...5) Order the right kits using the tech manuals, if in doubt phone or mail the agents6) Work clean, very clean7) Be patient, take your time, be careful not to damage parts especially bolts, caps, orings etc 8) Use a torque wrench....for everything....9) If you only need orings get them from a place such as Bearing Man (cheap, cheap)10) Use the correct lubricants - wt and ml I have learnt a lot and have much more to learn still! Good advice, especially the RTFM bit. (I paraphrased)
droo Posted June 11, 2016 Posted June 11, 2016 Credit where credit is due, the guys obviously know what they doing. On the Oil/Grease front their were mistakes made but it's not so cut and dry in terms that it you don't use "x" oil your fork is going to get damaged. For exarmple: I have a Dual Air SID XX WC at 120mm and have made a few changes that I find work for me.I run 7.5W oil in the damper as I found the rebound as a little to fast with 5W.I run Fox 20W Gold in both the lowers as I find it feels better than the 5W and reduces stiction.I run a single air reducer to ramp up the progression and add a little Fox Float fluid to the air side along with grease. Droo is probable in a better position to make a call on whether my Fork is going to (get damaged) but I've had it 4 years, all is still good and It gets ridden hard.(I have spoken to the guys at CCS and no one had a problem with it. This might be due to it being out of warranty ) Your fork is unlikely to explode. The oil in the air spring is unnecessary though. SRAM butter works just fine.
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.