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Fork Travel & stem setup


Butterbean

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Posted

I have a GT avalanche Pro from circa 2008. Standard they seem to have come out with a 100mm fork but in not certain about that.

 

I have just got hold of a suntour air fork to replace the crap that I bought the bike with, but it has adjustable travel, between 80 to 140mm with a little bit of tinkering.

 

So, right now, I'm on 100mm with a 720 bar and 110 stem.

 

Question is, what stem length should I be looking at, and what's the max travel to run the fork?? I do mostly some relaxed trails, but being close to stellies, would like to make my bike as close to all mountain as possible.

 

Thanks!!

Posted

Measure the exposed stanchions to get an idea of the travel.

 

Extra travel is always welcome, but be careful of raising the front end too high on XC style bikes, as you'll be raising the BB too, which could negatively affect the handling. However, try the bike at different travel lenghts and see what you like.

 

Bar widths is quite personal, but around 760-800mm is a good width, depending on your size and riding style. I run 780mm bars and am roughly average in size. With the stem, don't use anything longer than 60mm.

Posted

I have a Epicon on my GT Avalanche, I have at 120mm. It does make the front wheel a little prone to picking up on uphills though, other than that it handles fine.

Posted

Mind posting a pic of the frame? Just curious to see if it is the same one I am busy with on a build.

 

 

I have a GT avalanche Pro from circa 2008. Standard they seem to have come out with a 100mm fork but in not certain about that.

I have just got hold of a suntour air fork to replace the crap that I bought the bike with, but it has adjustable travel, between 80 to 140mm with a little bit of tinkering.

So, right now, I'm on 100mm with a 720 bar and 110 stem.

Question is, what stem length should I be looking at, and what's the max travel to run the fork?? I do mostly some relaxed trails, but being close to stellies, would like to make my bike as close to all mountain as possible.

Thanks!!

Posted

I'm not an expert by any means, but I think you should be wary of going too high on travel with an XC bike with a steep head angle, otherwise you can get the nose-dive effect on down hill bumps, which can send you over the bars and airborne sans velo.

 

A short stem and wide bars will counter this, to some extent. 

Posted

Awesome stuff, will post pics a little later. Was planning on a 50mm stem and was hoping to run around 120mm travel,was just worried about frame strength and the effect on the geometry.

 

Sounds like I should be safe though!! Stellar

Posted

So here's a pic for those that wanted it.

 

Bought the bike from a student at UCT for 3k. Spent another 3 doing new wheels, Xt 10 speed upgrade (crank still needs replacing), replaced bars, seat post, and fork, as well as the tubeless conversion.

 

So it's been a great budget bike in my opinion, and is well capable for my needs. Just need to sort the stem size out and then play with travel.

 

Thanks again for the responses so far!

post-43682-0-78964100-1469454447_thumb.jpg

Posted

Bike is looking slick.

 

I'd say start off at 120mm and go up or down from there.

 

As for the stem, a 50mm would sharpen up the steering and give the bike a trick look. You'll obviously be pushed a bit more upright with the shorter stem, but wider bars will ensure help to negate that (to an extent).

Posted

Bike is looking slick.

 

I'd say start off at 120mm and go up or down from there.

 

As for the stem, a 50mm would sharpen up the steering and give the bike a trick look. You'll obviously be pushed a bit more upright with the shorter stem, but wider bars will ensure help to negate that (to an extent).

Champion response man. Will take it up to 120 and I'm sure that'll be awesome. 50mm stem to follow and will see how things handle from there. Thanks man

Posted

Finally another one. I have not seen one anywhere! 

 

Here is my frame: http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/Jacques_Karsten/hubmarket-46073-0-57176900-1463986367_zpsfoldbetp.jpg

 

So here's a pic for those that wanted it.

Bought the bike from a student at UCT for 3k. Spent another 3 doing new wheels, Xt 10 speed upgrade (crank still needs replacing), replaced bars, seat post, and fork, as well as the tubeless conversion.

So it's been a great budget bike in my opinion, and is well capable for my needs. Just need to sort the stem size out and then play with travel.

Thanks again for the responses so far!

Posted

Excuse my ignorance, but I have a early 2000's GT Avalanche 1.0 frame and cannot figure out if or what the difference is between my frame and the Avalanche Pro frame.

Have tried go google the geometry for the Pro frame, but to no avail. Does it have a slacker head angle or something?

 

Sent from my S40 using Tapatalk

Posted

Excuse my ignorance, but I have a early 2000's GT Avalanche 1.0 frame and cannot figure out if or what the difference is between my frame and the Avalanche Pro frame.

Have tried go google the geometry for the Pro frame, but to no avail. Does it have a slacker head angle or something?

 

Sent from my S40 using Tapatalk

I also have no solid evidence, but I firmly believe the difference was in the build of the bike. Think back to thise days and bikes were sold complete, and the model depicted the peripheral specs.

 

There were then some updates between the 1.0 and the 2.0 which I still think were just slight modernisation instead of any real differences.

 

Might be completely wrong, but that's what I've gathered from the small research I've done.

Posted

Also, has anyone tried a 659b upgrade??

 

The frame, and my fork, have plenty of clearance. Running 2.1 back and 2.3 tyres and still have loads of clearance. Anyone???

Posted

I was also thinking that the difference might be spec related, but wasn't sure.

Thought the geometry might have been different because from what I can gather it was sold with a 120mm fork.

 

Sent from my S40 using Tapatalk

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