Noshow

Dr Stuart McGill is the authority and his big three exercises for back pain are the curl up, side plank and bird dog. Look them up. Based on ca 10 sec static holds and low reps. Important to build core strength before doing too much on flexibility. Try lots of therapy options before surgery.

Do you drive a white Range Rover Sport?

Looks fantastic. Did you think about going mullet?

You can't really as the bar diameters and clamp sizes are annoyingly slightly different. There are some touring bar shapes that would work from brands like Surly and On-One but they are difficult to get in SA, which is a shame.

There's usually a different offset between 27.5 and 29er forks as well, about 5mm. Not sure if it makes much difference.

Yes I reckon less than 10% difference between bunch and solo, so for a solo sub-3 you need to be able to do 2:45ish in the bunch, or for solo sub-4 about 3:40 drafting. Lots of people can do that.

I agree with that. Push quite hard up the climbs (there's only 4 really) including over the top to get in a fastish bunch then try to stay near the front, including doing your bit on the front. Chasing and jumping groups on the flat is a mugs game and will flatten you.

Love that. How did you get it to not click/index?

That's actually a great bike, just ride it. Another vote for David's dropper post, wider tyres when yours wear out, set fork to 120mm if poss, and 1x11 (2nd hand if needed) when parts wear out. Maybe an angleset headset if you want to go a bit slacker - it should fit but could be a bit pricey.

My tuppenceworth is you're on the right track with the 120mm top fuel, spark etc. Ideally not the super steep head angle race bikes (go for less than say 68 deg), and if you get one with a fork that can easily be extended with spacers (most Rockshox) you have the option to add 20mm at the front at minimal costs later on if you feel like you want more travel. The only time you will need more than that is if you are doing pretty steep downhill tracks (certainly steeper than you'll see on S2C, W2W etc) - then as a relative beginner it will help with the over the bars feeling (or reality!) which can be intimidating (a dropper post will also help with this). If you ride a 140+ bike like a Stumpjumper on a stage race or one day event, and even for regular flattish rides over say 2 hrs, you will be slow and knackered and wish you'd gone for something lighter and more efficient. Tyres also make a big different here. Definately 29er. You could get a nice hardtail, but I think you would appreciate the comfort of duel suspension. Also depends on budget, a good spec hardtail would be better than a heavy entry level dual suspension for the same price. And as many have said it depends on what you will be riding most of the time.

You can’t put a cassette with a 10t smallest cog on that freehub. If you’re spinning out you need bigger chainring’s or pedal faster.

Masks aren't so much to protect yourself but to protect others from you unwittingly spreading the virus. Not wearing one in proximity to others basically says I don't care about you or anyone you might come into contact with. The current rules that you cover your face at all times in public might be over the top - it certainly seems so pedaling along hundreds of metres from the next person, but to pull your buff or mask up when near to others is not unreasonable. Similar to the cycling in groups. It is against the temporary laws, which may be a bit strict. Joining with people from maybe one other household, maintaining distance and face covering seems OK to me. Large groups from multiple homes, which we have all seen many of, with no distancing and masks is just brainless. Also arrogant, entitled, and selfish, which is not a great combination but seems quite common and is one of the reasons this country has been down rabbit holes in the past.

I presume the Lyne XD freehub will also work on Stans? I think both hubs are 30-point, 12 degrees engagement, This a good option if so.

Part of the problem is the guidelines not being specific enough. In Europe, Oz, SE Asia etc they are very clear i.e X km from your home, leaving directly from you home (no driving), max one other person from your household, face masks, dogs leashed etc, and spot fines for breaching. This is the least of the problems for SA, as it's a very small minority of the population and not the ones the regulations are meant to protect, but many people are not helping the situation or themselves. I can see this going back to no exercise allowed as the simplest way to manage it. Clearly we are not Swedish, where they are relying on people being intelligent enough and public spirited enough to be sensible. The virus hotspots in SA are the Atlantic seaboard and the Southern Suburbs, which seem to be the main places people think they know better.

The Ardbeg 10 is a banger

Are you allowed to cable-tie the number board to your seatpost? It's a bit awkward on the bars with cable and garmin etc

I also rode past. Was definitely a male cyclist. Ambulance, police and a fire engine all there. Paramedics giving CPR. No signs of an accident. Strength to all involved.

Also your chain checker might be off - they're not very accurate. Try with a 12" steel rule, and if more than 1/16" over 12". I also think cleaning with paraffin makes the chain measure longer as all the lube has been stripped out of the rollers.

I think you are still overcleaning. Specific chain cleaners like Namgear Charlie are still quite harsh solvents like paraffin. Use Squirt or Smoove but just brush with a stiff brush and wipe with a dry cloth then relube. Wash occasionally with the Namgear Bravo. Sometimes I wipe the chain with a cloth just damp with the Charlie, but don't spray it on the chain - not sure this is even necessary. I get at least 2000km on a chain. If you are going to clean that thoroughly I think you are better off with a wet lube that has more chance of getting to the internals.

I looked into this a while ago. Squirt say to thoroughly degrease the chain before use to strip all the shop lube off it and then apply Squirt. You can even buy chains that have had this done already. I'm not sure this is good advice. Smoove also say to degrease regularly with strong degreaser. Also not sure if this is right. Of the chain manufactures KMC say don't degrease ever, as it weakens the chain. So much contradiction. I prefer Squirt, as it's clean, but have concluded that degreasing is not ideal. Leave the shop grease, lube with Squirt, brush/wipe, relube etc. Occasionally wipe with a rag damp with Namgear Charlie. Occasionally pour hot water on it to melt the wax, and the pulley build-up and wipe with a cloth. You can also scrape the build-up,off with a small allen key, it's not really a problem. I haven't a clue really.

... or buy a lower spec trial bike with a good frame (second hand even better) and swap wheels and components, then sell the Titan (or keep it).

Depending on body shape and how flexible you are consider one of the more relaxed geometry bikes like the Specialized Roubaix, Cannondale Synapse, Giant Defy etc. Should be just as fast but more comfortable and smoother handling. Better than having to turn the stem upside down to fit. Some of the out and out race bikes are pretty harsh and twitchy.

Like the Trek Stache... Stache 5 on sale for under 20K. https://www.trekbikes.com/za/en_ZA/bikes/mountain-bikes/trail-mountain-bikes/stache/stache-5/p/17392/?colorCode=black

To complicate things a bit, a 29er hardtail with slacker head tube (<70), a longer fork (>120), wider rims and width for wider tyres (2.4-2.6), wide bars and short stem, would be a very versatile, comfortable and good value bike, especially if it was carbon. Most of the stock hard tails are a bit racy in geometry, fork, tyres etc and make the downhills a bit hairy.

Get a digital gauge to check. My track pump was off by 1 bar i.e atmospheric correction, so I just inflate 1 bar more. I think the calibration goes off most pump gauges.