Noshow

Dr Stuart McGill is the authority and his big three exercises for back pain are the curl up, side plank and bird dog. Look them up. Based on ca 10 sec static holds and low reps. Important to build core strength before doing too much on flexibility. Try lots of therapy options before surgery.

Do you drive a white Range Rover Sport?

Looks fantastic. Did you think about going mullet?

You can't really as the bar diameters and clamp sizes are annoyingly slightly different. There are some touring bar shapes that would work from brands like Surly and On-One but they are difficult to get in SA, which is a shame.

There's usually a different offset between 27.5 and 29er forks as well, about 5mm. Not sure if it makes much difference.

Yes I reckon less than 10% difference between bunch and solo, so for a solo sub-3 you need to be able to do 2:45ish in the bunch, or for solo sub-4 about 3:40 drafting. Lots of people can do that.

I agree with that. Push quite hard up the climbs (there's only 4 really) including over the top to get in a fastish bunch then try to stay near the front, including doing your bit on the front. Chasing and jumping groups on the flat is a mugs game and will flatten you.

Love that. How did you get it to not click/index?

That's actually a great bike, just ride it. Another vote for David's dropper post, wider tyres when yours wear out, set fork to 120mm if poss, and 1x11 (2nd hand if needed) when parts wear out. Maybe an angleset headset if you want to go a bit slacker - it should fit but could be a bit pricey.

My tuppenceworth is you're on the right track with the 120mm top fuel, spark etc. Ideally not the super steep head angle race bikes (go for less than say 68 deg), and if you get one with a fork that can easily be extended with spacers (most Rockshox) you have the option to add 20mm at the front at minimal costs later on if you feel like you want more travel. The only time you will need more than that is if you are doing pretty steep downhill tracks (certainly steeper than you'll see on S2C, W2W etc) - then as a relative beginner it will help with the over the bars feeling (or reality!) which can be intimidating (a dropper post will also help with this). If you ride a 140+ bike like a Stumpjumper on a stage race or one day event, and even for regular flattish rides over say 2 hrs, you will be slow and knackered and wish you'd gone for something lighter and more efficient. Tyres also make a big different here. Definately 29er. You could get a nice hardtail, but I think you would appreciate the comfort of duel suspension. Also depends on budget, a good spec hardtail would be better than a heavy entry level dual suspension for the same price. And as many have said it depends on what you will be riding most of the time.

I presume the Lyne XD freehub will also work on Stans? I think both hubs are 30-point, 12 degrees engagement, This a good option if so.

Ouch. That one is just bad luck, maybe a bit of carelessness - he was just cruising in the bunch. But it takes some mentality to keep coming back from all those crashes and keep taking the risks he does. He is quite extraordinary, and bonkers.

Is the evolution of wide MTB handlebars becoming a problem for road races? Two MTBs with 780mm bars riding next to each other in the bunch cuts quite a swathe. More dangerous than tri bars I think. How about limiting bar width for road races

Too true. Smith was a legend - prickly legend with unappealing technique and personality but one of the best opening captains in history. A prophet without honour...

Love the look of those Versus socks but they only come in one size. For us large-hoofed mammals (size 12) we really need something that doesn't also fit a size 8 twinkle toes.

It's a 26er and he got it cheap.

I don't like this general revisionism that Froome was the better rider in 2012 and could have won if they were racing against each other. Wiggins was by miles the better time trialer and the TdF route in 2012 suited that. Of course Froome could have broken him in the mountains and made-up 5 mins but I think probably not. Since then the routes have favoured the climbers more, so Wiggins has probably had his best shot. Even now as a domestique for Froome he would be a threat - shepherding him up the mountains and finishing close behind, he'd still have a few minutes in the bag from the time trials.

Getting the right size is essential but you also need to get the right frame geometry, depending on your shape (long legs / short torso or vice versa), your age and flexibility (bearing in mind this will improve as you get fitter), and what sort of riding you want to do. A bike fit is important but there's a limit to what it can achieve if the frame just doesn't suit, and you start to look odd with piles of spacers under an inverted stem. Most manufacturers have different models ie. race vs sportive (more upright position and often smoother ride) geometry which is generally a variation of the height of the head tube and length of top tube. Eg Giant TCR vs Defy Specialized Tarmac vs Roubaix Cannondale Supersix vs Synapse Scott Foil vs CR1 The geometry also varies between manufacturers i.e Giant and Cannodale are generally more stretched out with lower handlebars than Spec and Scott. Try a few out first, especially if you are buying new. I agree with the above 'though, get a carbon frame and 105 spec (maybe UItegra if it is still in budget) from whichever of the above fits best, and consider upgrading wheels, crank and maybe bar/stem to get it lighter when you feel like it.

Can anyone who has ridden both give a comparison of the One Twenty 650 vs the One Ten 29?

Does anyone know the differnce in farme weight bewteen the Zula 650B and PYGA120 650B?

Apart from Hansie - everyone liked him.

It is an oddity that RSA doesn't really appreciate it's best cricketers. Smith one of the most successful openers/captains ever but splits opinion, Kallis on stats the greatest cricketer of all time but appreciated more outside SA, even Hashim for a long time half the country wanted Neil McKenzie instead! All of them need a bit of work on their personalities but in Australia they'd be running for President.

Smith is remarkable as a captain because he has maintained his own form and has a world class record as opener - not many have ever done that.

This is a common issue with Mavic hubs - they use a PTFE bushing in the freehub body rather than a bearing. It wears out quickly if you don't keep it lubed. It's more of a howl than vibration? It sound like yours has worn too far so the housing has worn narrowing the diameter, so a new freewheel with a new bushing still won't fix it. The only fix I know, which doesn't require a full new hub, is the hubdoctor ebay shop which sells either replacement PTFE bushings to put in the old freehub - they do an oversized one for your situation if the actual hub housing has worn. Better still, they do a bearing which fits in place of the PTFE bushing which should last for ever and doesn't require such frequent lubing. They are pretty cheap, and much cheaper than a new hub and/or a new feehub body - you'll have to do it yourself or get a friendly mechanic to do it.

Unfortunately not. Nothing from SAPS, or any of the other avenues. I do have an insurance loss adjuster coming round. Not looking forward to that.