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Dented rim - how bad?


stefmeister

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So got unlucky yesterday, and busted my rear wheel's rim. 

The spoke at the dent is also shot - think it poked through the tyre. Managed to ride back home with some wobble, and the tyre seemed to hold its air.

 

So how bad is this? Can it be repaired? Previous rims got dents, but this one is quite bigger. I assume the dent can't be bent straight again? Taking it in to the lbs later, but would also appreciate some advice.

 

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r631/Stefmeister_666/IMG_4602.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

Please don't recommend flow mk3 on hopes  :ph34r: 

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Yeah that can be straightened, so long as you don't go overboard and wind up cracking the rim...the spoke will be loose because of the flat spot induced at time of dent...a decent wheel builder could sort it for you by un-building the wheel, knocking the dent out and the flat spot and rebuilding the wheel - that's gonna cost tho.

 

Cheapest is to straighten the dent as best possible and tighten up the spokes to get some form of tension back into them and some resemblance of true-ness back into the wheel and ride it some more...

 

I have ridden wheels that have had 3 or more similar dents in them for at least 2 years and so long as there is no issue of the tyre unseating or leaking then carry on...

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I've straightened 3 dings like that on my Giant P XC2 rims. One about the same size as that one. Used a thick piece of wire on the inside and flat bar(smooth handle of a butter knife) on the outside with a thick piece of leather to prevent scuffing up the rim. Continually clamped it up with handheld vice grips until I completely got rid of the ding.

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If it's not leaking, get it trued up as best you can and carry on with your day. If it bugs you I'm afraid you're in for a new rim, that's never going to look quite the same again.

 

As per above though, you can get it a bit better with a block of wood and a hammer.

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It looks like it can be salvaged.

 

I use a G-clamp and gently squeeze the dented metal flat again. Add 2 small pieces of flat soft wood between the clamp and the rim to spread the force and protect the rim.

You can also use the g-clamp to grip and bend the dented side of the rim laterally, like you would with a large shifter.

 

If the rim has a flat spot I remove a few spokes around the flat spot and use a small hydraulic car jack between the hub and the rim (with some rubber padding) to gently push the flat spot out.

 

Lastly, file and sand any rough edges to prevent damage to the tyre or tube.

 

The rim will not come out perfect but should be usable again.

Remember to be very patient and bend the metal very gently since aluminium cracks very easily.

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Thanks for the feedback.

LBS also confirmed this.

 

Kinda relieved, as I'm not sure spez will just replace a rim, and if so it would be quite costly - which I would rather spend money on Flow mk3 rims or similar. But that would mean a new hub as well as the roval traverse rims are 28H for rear and 24H for front. And god forbid, my OCD won't be able to handle non-matching front and rear wheels, so it could've become a costly exercise.

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Thanks for the feedback.

LBS also confirmed this.

 

Kinda relieved, as I'm not sure spez will just replace a rim, and if so it would be quite costly - which I would rather spend money on Flow mk3 rims or similar. But that would mean a new hub as well as the roval traverse rims are 28H for rear and 24H for front. And god forbid, my OCD won't be able to handle non-matching front and rear wheels, so it could've become a costly exercise.

I have bought Spez rims separately before....

 

Ask nicely at your local Spez shop :)

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