What lightweight stiff spoke? revo's too flexy

[Sterad]

Hi, I am currently running revolution spokes and find them too flexy, even with 32 spoke count. Is there a more rigid spoke but still light weight? Rapide sell alpina spokes, how good are they?

[PeterF]

I have used the Alpina spokes from Rapide on a few wheels now and have not had any issues. I would definitely recommend them.

[Sterad]

Ok thks, are you using the bladed or round ones? Where is their shop in jhb?

[Skinnyone]

Stiffness of a wheel is not always as simple as fitting new "stiffer" spokes, it is also dependent on how tight the spokes are, how "stiff" the rim is, how much spoke tension the rim is able to take etc...

 

So it is a bit pointless looking for stiffer spokes when it may be a case of tensioning the wheel up to the correct amount - if under tensioned.

 

Also pointless if you have a wet noodle of a rim (which is what it sounds like if you have 32 spokes and its still "floppy") and rebuilding it as you will have the same end result but you'll be short of a few R's.

 

Also you want light but strong - how much you willing to pay? There is nothing wrong with revolution spokes if used correctly. 

 

More info like rim make and model and hub combo would be helpful here...also how much do you weigh? again pointless aiming for a light wheel if you are on the wrong side of 75kg - I would rather say get a slightly heavier build and have a stiffer wheel that handles better than a light one that rides like you have flat tyres...

[PeterF]

I have only used the round double butted spokes. Not sure where they are check on the website for their details or give them a call, Wayne is very helpfull.

[Mongoose!]

How can one feel wheel flex with a 2 bar (or less)  high volume tyre, on an uneven gravel road with a duel suspension bike?

[Sterad]

Stiffness of a wheel is not always as simple as fitting new "stiffer" spokes, it is also dependent on how tight the spokes are, how "stiff" the rim is, how much spoke tension the rim is able to take etc...

 

So it is a bit pointless looking for stiffer spokes when it may be a case of tensioning the wheel up to the correct amount - if under tensioned.

 

Also pointless if you have a wet noodle of a rim (which is what it sounds like if you have 32 spokes and its still "floppy") and rebuilding it as you will have the same end result but you'll be short of a few R's.

 

Also you want light but strong - how much you willing to pay? There is nothing wrong with revolution spokes if used correctly. 

 

More info like rim make and model and hub combo would be helpful here...also how much do you weigh? again pointless aiming for a light wheel if you are on the wrong side of 75kg - I would rather say get a slightly heavier build and have a stiffer wheel that handles better than a light one that rides like you have flat tyres...

Hi, they are ac sprint 350 wheels. Just have an issue with the back. I know the rims are not the most rigid, at only 350 grams. I am around 75kg, so not that heavy. Would it be better to spoke radially on the non drive side? I think radially gives a stiffer wheel laterally?

[droo]

Hi, they are ac sprint 350 wheels. Just have an issue with the back. I know the rims are not the most rigid, at only 350 grams. I am around 75kg, so not that heavy. Would it be better to spoke radially on the non drive side? I think radially gives a stiffer wheel laterally?

 

Find a decent wheelbuilder, and build 3x to a decent tension. New spokes will do nothing but make your wallet lighter, and radial lacing on a rear wheel will most likely destroy your hub.

 

For the rest, what Skinnyone said.

[Sterad]

Radial lacing on one side? These hubs have huge flanges. It is currently spoked 3x both sides. Can't tension too high, these rims have bad reputation of nipples pulling through.

[droo]

Can't tension too high, these rims have bad reputation of nipples pulling through.

 

There's your problem then. If you can't pull to at least 110kgf, don't bother. Especially 29".

 

Find a rim that can take proper tension and you'll be good.

[V12man]

Radial lacing on one side? These hubs have huge flanges. It is currently spoked 3x both sides. Can't tension too high, these rims have bad reputation of nipples pulling through.

Find a decent wheelbuilder WITH a spoke tension gauge and get them tensioned properly - spokes don't work in compression, they work in tension, so stiff wheels have very little relationship to the size/stiffness of the spoke in it's untensioned state - more a function of lacing pattern, rim strength and spoke tension - and trust me, those revolutions are more than strong enough for any rim/build tension possible - my carbon rims are at 130kgf with revolutions, and they are super stiff, my crests are at 100kgf and they are ok - both laced 3 cross and tensioned to the max rim manufacturer spec - WITH a guage

[Wannabe]

I'm 82-85kg and have been riding om my Sprint 350's for many years now, not a single problem with flex and spokes coming loose.

 

I did however damage my rear rim in a pothole, and now have a nice ding in it, causing it to be radialy out of true. Nothing you can do about that but replace the rim. Problem is that you cannot find the white rims anymore. So now I'm riding around with a little bit of a "bounce", quite annoying.

 

So I would, as suggested, take the wheel to a reputable builder to sort it out for you.

[Martin PJ]

I bought these wheels many years ago. Eventually I just had them rebuilt with normal spokes, because I couldn't true up with wheels with the double butted spokes. The rims are very light, had a blowout on them once and this destroyed the rim, had to replace it.

 

My son uses them now, they are 10 years old and he is very happy with them. He is around 85 kilos.

 

One thing you can try is to solder the spokes at the joins. I have done this to the back wheel and it does make it stiffer. Wrap an individual copper wire from electrical cable around each join (about 8 to 10 cm piece) in a figure 8. Then melt solder onto the copper wire.

[Skinnyone]

Well there is the problem, A rim that is too light for the application....

 

I have built some of those FRM rims and let me not lie - They are SH!T...I tried to de-stress it after the initial tension and "crisped" the wheel - that's when the rim looks like a pringle chip...

 

If the rim cannot take the tension then chuck it...

As Droo says, radial lacing is only opening yourself up for more heart break...the wheel manufacturers that do this only do it because they have designed that lacing and the lack of support it gives (especially on an MTB with discs) into the rim...if you do this then you need a stout rim...

[Sterad]

I bought these wheels many years ago. Eventually I just had them rebuilt with normal spokes, because I couldn't true up with wheels with the double butted spokes. The rims are very light, had a blowout on them once and this destroyed the rim, had to replace it.

 

My son uses them now, they are 10 years old and he is very happy with them. He is around 85 kilos.

 

One thing you can try is to solder the spokes at the joins. I have done this to the back wheel and it does make it stiffer. Wrap an individual copper wire from electrical cable around each join (about 8 to 10 cm piece) in a figure 8. Then melt solder onto the copper wire.

Clever idea, is there really that much movement where the spokes cross?

 

Anyway, I bought some bladed alpina spokes, very light, about the same as revolutions. Spoked wheel radially on one side, it definitely feels stifferer(not as much movement laterally). I think the revolutions were under tensioned though.

[Martin PJ]

Here is what it looks like. It certainly does make the wheel stiffer. It is a trick which they used in the old days. If you use this you need to be extra careful on the drive side that the derailleur does not touch the soldered pieces. The derailleur would be more likely to end up twisted in the spokes, as I have found out from experience.