Mr lee Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 Ok so on a recent semi-down hill section on a road I reached a speed of around 65km/h and pulled the breaks....Took me around 30-40m to slow down to around 20km/h which I thought was a bit dangerous, especially if I would need to stop to avoid a collision or avoid something in an emergency (swerving aside)!While pulling the breaks I had that horrible feeling you usually get when dreaming and trying to stop and nothing happens :/. It felt as though I was gong to snap the brake lever off I was pulling so hard! Taking into account that I am around 125kg's (140kg's with bike and gear) and using resin pads, am I expecting too much of the bike and components to slow me down effectively given my inertia and weight? I have been looking on quite a few Internet forums, most of which are based overseas, and it seems normale for bikes to come out with resin pads as they are cheaper, but I have also discovered that my rotors are resin only as well! The general consensus for changing to metal brake pads would be if you were running in wet and muddy conditions or if you are a heavy rider and wanted a pad that lasts longer. The downside being that the metal is noisier and takes longer to bed in. I have also read on here and have been told that should I sldecide to partake in various events in SA that it is advisable to change to metal pads as the resin variants may only last for half the race! Am I over thinking this or will I actually get by with resin pads (as long as I carry a spare set). It would have been great if I could just drop in a set of metal pads but I would unfortunately have to upgrade the rotor too which I would like to try and avoid due to tight and non-existent funds after buying a new bike.The breaks I have are the shimano m506 with m447 calipers. The disk says resin only and part number looks to be m51cl.
bikebloke Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 180 on the front and 203 on the back would help
s14phoenix Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 Taking into account that I am around 125kg's (140kg's with bike and gear) and using resin pads, am I expecting too much of the bike and components to slow me down effectively given my inertia and weight? Umm yes... and what size is your disks? upgrade them and fit metals - they DO fade less and with your weight you need bigger disks. 200mm or 180mm at least... I am 70kg+/- and run 180mm front and 160mm rear with metal pads.
s14phoenix Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 180 on the front and 203 on the back would help since most of your stopping power comes from the front I would rather have them 203 front and 180 rear. Oh and upgrade to XT level Ice-Tech disks... they stay cooler and thus brake better. the pads only lasting half an event would depend on the event length... if you partake in stage races stretching over multiple days... then yes.
428 others Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 180 on the front and 203 on the back would help Just the other way round
ratherberidin' Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 I'm not as heavy at 110ish kg's kitted, but also had these thoughts due to a tendency to bomb down hills and brake as late as possible. With my old brakes, if you pulled the lever at 60kph+ all that changes is your facial expression. Your real issue is budget I guess - but I put good pads with braided brake hoses on and now feel like I can stop an 18 wheeler - or at least stop in time to miss one if need be.
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 180 on the front and 203 on the back would help 203 / 200 in the front, mate..
ratherberidin' Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 180 on the front and 203 on the back would help YES and this. Big okes need big blades, the "leverage increase" on a big disc makes a VERY REAL difference. 203 on the front though, 180 back. Edit: Disc not pad
bikebloke Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 203 / 200 in the front, mate.. ok ill admit im not mtb guy but possibly this is why you mud rats are always going OTB and hurting yourselves I slow down with the front and stop with the back
lerouc Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 I am exactly the same weight, might be a bit heavier with full kit. I run 180mm front and back, SLX brakes with XT Ice tech rotors. I usually use metal pads but currently have a resin pair (dont know front or back) because my LBS didn't have metal. Can't say i feel like i live on the edge and see my life flashing before my eyes when i descend but the brakes are OK. I am happy with my current setup. I only slightly start braking earlier then my 70kilos buddies.
dirtypot Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 Changing to metal isn't going to help you to stop any faster - brake fade is not your issue.I use resin pads and they're super sharp and can stop my bike from moving instantly if required, they also last ages, but then I do very little heavy mud riding / braking. What brake system are you running? If it's something fairly terrible like Tektro, then a full brake upgrade may be needed. Getting bigger discs is only half the issue - you've got to have a good braking system.
AdamA Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 What is the consensus on Using Metal pads on Resin only Disk?
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 Changing to metal isn't going to help you to stop any faster - brake fade is not your issue.I use resin pads and they're super sharp and can stop my bike from moving instantly if required, they also last ages, but then I do very little heavy mud riding / braking. What brake system are you running? If it's something fairly terrible like Tektro, then a full brake upgrade may be needed. Getting bigger discs is only half the issue - you've got to have a good braking system. Deore / Alivio OEM level mix.
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 What is the consensus on Using Metal pads on Resin only Disk?They'll warp. The discs, that is.
dirtypot Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 Deore / Alivio OEM level mix. Whoops, skim reading got me again...
s14phoenix Posted October 20, 2016 Posted October 20, 2016 We could get all tech and talk about weight transfer to the front and how heavy braking can reduce the rear brake effectiveness to 10% of total braking power but we just gonna say put bigger on the front and learn to use it effectively without going OTB or front wash face-plant. Generally the rear is used to trip small amounts of speed regulating.and I would fit bigger ice-tech disks which probably would take away 60-80% of the problem - they are more expensive but worth it.
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