Can I get away with resin brake pads...?

[Mr lee]

centre lock discs have a disc riveted to a splined carrier that fits onto splines on the hub. There is a lockring to secure them.

 

6 bolt hubs can be just a solid steel disc or a disc riveted to a carrier. Either has 6 bolts that attach it to threaded bolt holes in the hub. There are no splines or lockring.

 

Do yourself a favour and look up your bike and the part numbers I gave you on the web.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Thank you for clearing that up

I did download most of the manuals for most components on my bike but have been away this week and it is all on my laptop...don't like looking at manuals on a small phone.

 

Is there anyway I could get center lock disk that handles metal pads? Do they actually have one that would be a direct replacement without it being a total mission? ...and higher cost!

[Mr lee]

centre lock discs have a disc riveted to a splined carrier that fits onto splines on the hub. There is a lockring to secure them.

 

6 bolt hubs can be just a solid steel disc or a disc riveted to a carrier. Either has 6 bolts that attach it to threaded bolt holes in the hub. There are no splines or lockring.

 

Do yourself a favour and look up your bike and the part numbers I gave you on the web.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Thank you for clearing that up

I did download most of the manuals for most components on my bike but have been away this week and it is all on my laptop...don't like looking at manuals on a small phone.

 

Is there anyway I could get center lock disk that handles metal pads? Do they actually have one that would be a direct replacement without it being a total mission? ...and higher cost!

[Wannabe]

Centre Lock Disc Adapter.

 

[Wannabe]

Centre Lock Disc

 

http://www.twohubs.com/PortalDocs/170/Shimano-SM-RT99-Center-Lock-Disc-Brake-Rotor-01.jpg

[Wannabe]

6 Bolt Disc

 

http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/images/g/A7IAAOSw3mpXIozL/s-l225.jpg

[Eugene Brown]

Take a breath and step back before worrying about all possible combinations of discs, fixing systems and pads. If your back brake is not locking your wheel, something is wrong with the bleeding or brake system itself, and it will probably be on the front brake too. Get that sorted as a matter of SAFETY PRIORITY to start with.

 

Customising brake disc size and pad material should be further down your list.

 

BUT, to answer your last question, yes, there are centre lock discs that would fit right onto your hub (if it is centre-lock) that can handle metal pads. This is a standard feature on many bikes.

 

Good luck, and hope you get what you're looking for!!!

[Wannabe]

Easiest / best way to explain difference between them.

[s14phoenix]

Centre Lock Disc

 

http://www.twohubs.com/PortalDocs/170/Shimano-SM-RT99-Center-Lock-Disc-Brake-Rotor-01.jpg

 

Look no further. yes they pricier than some but they really are THAT good.

 

those heatsink fins are awesome. The disk design that stays cooler than anything else out there.

[Headshot]

Its basically been said already:

 

1. Resin pads are not the problem. 

2. Fit bigger rotors;

3. experiment with pads - I use resin up front (on a 203 rotor) and metal at the back on a 180 because I didnt like the slight increase in noise and lack of bite and feel up front. In my experience rear pads wear out more quickly than fronts. I suspect i drag the rear brakes slightly and they also pick up more dirt than the front. I have just replaced the rear metal pads but the front resins are still fine!

4. Fit bigger rotors!

5.Bleed the brakes and set up the levers properly. If still no joy get an upgrade eg SLX

[JXV]

Thank you for clearing that up

I did download most of the manuals for most components on my bike but have been away this week and it is all on my laptop...don't like looking at manuals on a small phone.

 

Is there anyway I could get center lock disk that handles metal pads? Do they actually have one that would be a direct replacement without it being a total mission? ...and higher cost!

The SM RT66 is a straight stainless steel disc rotor with no carrier and 6 bolt holes. The SM RT64 has an outer disc riveted to the centrelock carrier. Both are lowest spec Shimano discs rated for metal pads.

 

Note also ..... there are noShimano metal pads available for your type of caliper.... only resin. So if you get newer uprated disc you still can't run metal pads unless you also change your calipers. There may be aftermarket metal pads that will fit but with safety critical stuff I prefer OEM.

 

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[Mr lee]

Wow! Thanks for all the info and further advice everyone.

From what I can tell my pads are the standard resin B01S but there is also a metal version with part number E01S...not sure if these are available locally.

I will definitely try and get them bled and checked before spending money on an upgrade... I would be stupid if I did not try that first...and the wife would have my cahoonas if I spent more money unnecessarily

[Mr lee]

Ok, so after looking at a few of the product and dealer manuals/documents on Shimano's site it's seems that Merida spec'd a bottom of the range disk with my caliper. More than likely to keep the costs down...

 

I have the BR-M447 caliper and they have matched it to the SM-RT20 disk which is actually used on low end mechanical disk brake systems.

 

The product doc for the M447 shows it with the RT54 disk. The compatibility chart shows that this caliper can be used with RT10, RT26, RT30, RT54 and RT56 but no where do I see RT20!

I suppose they are all much of a muchness and it is possibly only a difference in cooling hole designs as they are all only rated for Resin pads only....as well as the difference in the hub mounting!

 

I also checked on the pads compatibility for my caliper and it is also only rated for resin pads so upgrading to a disk that can handle metals pads is not going to help either!

Resin pads help dissipate the heat through the disk while metal pads allow the heat to travel through to the caliper as well for more efficient cooling.

As the design of my caliper does not accommodate for the increase in heat build up it would then start to heat or boil the oil and possibly cause a vapour lock or other issues which would effect braking performance!

 

So unless I upgrade my entire braking system which is definitely a no-no, my only other option is to increase the disk size and stay with the resin pads.

 

I am still going to get the shop to re-bleed the system and see if that helps at all before going down any upgrade road

[Paul Ruinaard]

Ok, so after looking at a few of the product and dealer manuals/documents on Shimano's site it's seems that Merida spec'd a bottom of the range disk with my caliper. More than likely to keep the costs down...

 

I have the BR-M447 caliper and they have matched it to the SM-RT20 disk which is actually used on low end mechanical disk brake systems.

 

The product doc for the M447 shows it with the RT54 disk. The compatibility chart shows that this caliper can be used with RT10, RT26, RT30, RT54 and RT56 but no where do I see RT20!

I suppose they are all much of a muchness and it is possibly only a difference in cooling hole designs as they are all only rated for Resin pads only....as well as the difference in the hub mounting!

 

I also checked on the pads compatibility for my caliper and it is also only rated for resin pads so upgrading to a disk that can handle metals pads is not going to help either!

Resin pads help dissipate the heat through the disk while metal pads allow the heat to travel through to the caliper as well for more efficient cooling.

As the design of my caliper does not accommodate for the increase in heat build up it would then start to heat or boil the oil and possibly cause a vapour lock or other issues which would effect braking performance!

 

So unless I upgrade my entire braking system which is definitely a no-no, my only other option is to increase the disk size and stay with the resin pads.

 

I am still going to get the shop to re-bleed the system and see if that helps at all before going down any upgrade road

Hmm - Oil doesn't boil. Brake Fluid does but oil rarely boils.

 

Check contamination of pads as well.

 

I have a set of 6 bolt 160mm discs for you if you want - metal discs - you are welcome to them if you come and collect.them. 

[karlito]

Not sure if this has been mentioned, but try using very fine sanding paper to sand your pads and discs.

 

If that does not work consider that your stock brake pads are crap(it happens), upgrade to proper resin pads - about R130. 

 

If they need to be bled they will feel spongy and bite more when pumping the lever, otherwise bleeding won't help.

 

And of course make sure the pads are perfectly flush with the disc when making contact.

[Albatross]

Spongy brakes...how do you store your bike when not in use? If you hang it upright on the wall (front wheel hooked, rear wheel on floor - pic worth a 1000 words!) you are looking for sponginess problems.

[Mr lee]

Spongy brakes...how do you store your bike when not in use? If you hang it upright on the wall (front wheel hooked, rear wheel on floor - pic worth a 1000 words!) you are looking for sponginess problems.

 

Bike stands upright on it's wheels and gets moved back and forth from the lounge to my hobby room a few times a week....i.e. whenever the maid comes!

 

Hmm - Oil doesn't boil. Brake Fluid does but oil rarely boils.

 

Check contamination of pads as well.

 

I have a set of 6 bolt 160mm discs for you if you want - metal discs - you are welcome to them if you come and collect.them. 

 

Ok I was technically/politically incorrect but I am sure you get what I was saying

 

Thank you very much for the offer but I will give it a miss. I need to go up in disk size and I would need to get a 6 bolt hub as well

 

Not sure if this has been mentioned, but try using very fine sanding paper to sand your pads and discs.

 

If that does not work consider that your stock brake pads are crap(it happens), upgrade to proper resin pads - about R130. 

 

If they need to be bled they will feel spongy and bite more when pumping the lever, otherwise bleeding won't help.

 

And of course make sure the pads are perfectly flush with the disc when making contact.

 

By proper resin what are you referring to? Please let me know the make and part number.

The pads appear to be mounted flush and I can see even wear/scuff marks on the disk.