Newb has questions- please be patient :)

[bikebloke]

if you are a cyclist then Rule #3 applies always (even if you are crazy)

[pe3nguin]

Dullscalpel: This is your mandatory reading list

http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/

[s14phoenix]

I see, the more teeth, the better

 

that really depends... the more teeth on the big ring the higher speed you can pedal the bike up to... that's if you have enough leg strength to pedal that hard. 

 

there is no rule about what gear to use for whatever... you need to match your gears with the speed you can maintain.

 

There is no use you stay on the big ring if you cannot pedal the bike and get off to push up the hill. I think it will make you give up cycling since you will not enjoy it.

 

There is all sorts of chain lube and they all have all sorts of followers that will tell you to use what they use since they think it is best.

 

and "The Rules" need to be taken with a pinch of salt... some are non negotiable and others are at your own discretion.

 

Some people would rather you fail than break the rules which is also no fun. but follow the rules...

[Dullscalpel]

Dullscalpel: This is your mandatory reading list

 

http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/

I love this! thanks!

[porqui]

...sniff ....sniff...

.

.

...sniff

[Dullscalpel]

that really depends... the more teeth on the big ring the higher speed you can pedal the bike up to... that's if you have enough leg strength to pedal that hard. 

 

there is no rule about what gear to use for whatever... you need to match your gears with the speed you can maintain.

 

There is no use you stay on the big ring if you cannot pedal the bike and get off to push up the hill. I think it will make you give up cycling since you will not enjoy it.

 

There is all sorts of chain lube and they all have all sorts of followers that will tell you to use what they use since they think it is best.

 

and "The Rules" need to be taken with a pinch of salt... some are non negotiable and others are at your own discretion.

 

Some people would rather you fail than break the rules which is also no fun. but follow the rules...

currently going through the rules and I can see the comedy in them. Currently on rule #51

 

I had a rough experience on my last ride. I couldn't recall which front ring my bike was on and changed the ring before a hill- chose the wrong one because I barely made it up the hill. Almost wanted to give up based on that. But, that is why I asked these questions

[Jehosefat]

What do you mean "couldn't recall"? All you have to do is glance down...

[s14phoenix]

What do you mean "couldn't recall"? All you have to do is glance down...

you never glance down at your gears... that when random parked cars, trees, pavements and other immovable objects jump into your line.

 

that's also you remove gear indicators from your shifters if they have them. you should know what ring you are on.

['Kaze Pete]

currently going through the rules and I can see the comedy in them. Currently on rule #51

 

I had a rough experience on my last ride. I couldn't recall which front ring my bike was on and changed the ring before a hill- chose the wrong one because I barely made it up the hill. Almost wanted to give up based on that. But, that is why I asked these questions

On a road bike (Shimano gears), you "push" the chain "up" (small to big ring), and trigger it to go down the "ramp" via the small level hidden behind the big lever.

 

This works for front or back. So, trigger at the back (of either lever) for the chain to go to a smaller ring/cog and use the big lever (more leverage) for the chain to be pushed up to the a bigger ring/cog

 

Only caveat:

On the front pushing up (chain goes to the big blade) makes pedaling harder - you go faster on the flats;

On the rear pushing up (chain goes closer to the spokes) makes pedaling easier - you can go up steeper hills and go slower

 

Knowing this will help to make changing more instinctive I hope?

[Dullscalpel]

What do you mean "couldn't recall"? All you have to do is glance down...

What part of newb didn't you get? I look down, I wobble and crash

[Dullscalpel]

On a road bike (Shimano gears), you "push" the chain "up" (small to bike ring), and trigger it to go down the "ramp" via the small level hidden behind the big lever  

 

This works for front or back. So, trigger at the back for the chain to go to a smaller ring/cog and the big lever (more leverage) for the chain to be pushed up to the a bigger ring/cog

 

Only caveat:

On the front pushing up (chain goes to the big blade) makes pedaling harder - you go faster on the flats;

On the rear pushing up (chain goes closer to the spokes) makes pedaling easier - you can go up steeper hills and go slower

 

Knowing this will help to make changing more instinctive I hope?

That helps a lot, thank you

['Kaze Pete]

That helps a lot, thank you

Fixed a spelling error, and added a few clarifications. All in bold

[NF1]

Hi guys,

 

I have some cycling questions that I hope you will be able to answer for me. I may not know all the lingo, so please be kind

 

Firstly, it's about gears and changing gears. When changing gears before going up a hill, must the chain be on the big ring or small ring before the hill? Also, if the chain is on the correct ring, must I still change the back gears?

 

Secondly, when at the top of the hill, must I immediately change the front ring back to it's original postion before the hill?

 

Thirdly, can you guys give me names of affordable bike shops in CT? Certain shops are so overpriced

 

Also, is wax lube the best lube to buy? How often should it be applied- assuming I ride twice a week for about 30 to 60 mins of road cycling. 

 

And finally, I have heard of chamois cream. What exactly does it do, and where exactly do you use it.

 

Sorry for all the questions. I don't have cycling friends so you guys are my cycling friends

Hey... just ride around your neighborhood and see how the gears feel... and what exactly they do when you shift and try various combinations of front and back gears. 

 

Do yourself a favour if you not in the mood for elitist cycling jibber jabber, pop in at crown cycles, speak to Oscar.

 

If you want more personal and practical advice, go to The Bike Park at Uitsig... speak to Chris, the man is such a humble guru. Take your bike along or call him if you want a dedicated session. 

[Mamil]

The more teeth on the front cog the harder it is to pedal but the more your bike is propelled forward. The fewer teeth on the back cogs the harder it is to pedal but the more you are propelled firward.

 

The fewer teeth on the front the easier it is to pedal but the more pedal strokes you need to be pushed forward.

 

Your hardest gear is big ring at front small ring at back. Your easiest gear is small at front and big at back.

 

The only rule is not to cross chain the gears.... avoid big at front and small at back and vice versa

['Kaze Pete]

The more teeth on the front cog the harder it is to pedal but the more your bike is propelled forward. The fewer teeth on the back cogs the harder it is to pedal but the more you are propelled firward.

 

The fewer teeth on the front the easier it is to pedal but the more pedal strokes you need to be pushed forward.

 

Your hardest gear is big ring at front small ring at back. Your easiest gear is small at front and big at back.

 

The only rule is not to cross chain the gears.... avoid big at front and small at back and vice versa

Big at front and small at back is not cross chained as the chain runs to the right hand side of both sets of gears.

The same with small at front and big at back, where the chain runs to the left of of both sets of gears.

 

Cross chain means running chain from one side of one set of gears (blades at front) to the other side of the cluster (back), eg:

• Small at front and small at back (chain goes from front left to rear right)
• Big at front and big at back (chain goes from front right to rear left)

 

Neither actually makes sense from an "intuitive" gearing perspective either as;

• big at back makes you slower for a given cadence and big at front makes you faster for a give cadence
• small at back makes you faster and small at front makes you slower

 

So the combination, irrespective of higher mechanical wear counter each other from a gearing perspective. There is normally enough overlap in most [2/3]x[8/9/10/11] setups that cross-chaining can easily be avoided just by selecting another gear combination.

[Mamil]

Quite right 'Kaze Pete - I'm spreading disinformation here - serves me right for tapping away on phone while eating lunch!

Big at front and small at back is not cross chained as the chain runs to the right hand side of both sets of gears.

The same with small at front and small at back, where the chain runs to the left of of both sets of gears.

 

Cross chain means running chain from one side of one set of gears (blades at front) to the other side of the cluster (back), eg:

• Small at front and small at back (chain goes from front left to rear right)
• Big at front and big at back (chain goes from front right to rear left)

 

Neither actually makes sense from an "intuitive" gearing perspective either as;

• big at back makes you slower for a given cadence and big at front makes you faster for a give cadence
• small at back makes you faster and small at front makes you slower

 

So the combination, irrespective of higher mechanical wear counter each other from a gearing perspective. There is normally enough overlap in most [2/3]x[8/9/10/11] setups that cross-chaining can easily be avoided just by selecting another gear combination.