Where are all the tandems at?

[Long Wheel Base]

I'm looking to buy a tandem for C and I

 

Nick which option can I look at? Shitdale? Matrix?

Both good options. Depending what model cannondale you get...... The newer ones are disk brake and the matrix is not. The matrix is also a ally/carbon mix. The new cannondales were actually designed as MTB tandems, you will see the "fatty" fork looks way out of proportion with road wheels on. The cannondale geometry is also different, even on the older ones it is a lot more relaxed compared to other brands. But you can still get an aggressive setup with different stems etc.

IMHO, don't skimp on wheels. There is not much difference in frame quality that you will notice but wheels is NB and don't use those cr@p rolfs, you will have endless issues. Just ask any of the tandem riders in the club if they have had a set of problem free rolf tandem wheels. MF and I have imported rolf spokes plenty times before and they not cheap. We have 4 sets of wheels, 2 rolfs, 1 white industry/sun and a carbon set. The rolfs can't go 200km without giving issues, the other 2 just keep on going and all 4 sets have been built by my toppie.

[Long Wheel Base]

Based in CPT and Gauteng. I popped into Olympic cycles today and they had a nice looking Tandem on the floor which I got. Apparently it will be the right size for my dad and I.

 

It’s a new Cannondale T2, very neat looking bike and seems to check all the boxes. Looking forward to the first ride.

Awesome, decent bike with plenty room to upgrade if you so wish. Keep me posted how it goes and if we lucky enough to be in the same group at CTCT, come say hi.

[2 X 2]

Both good options. Depending what model cannondale you get...... The newer ones are disk brake and the matrix is not. The matrix is also a ally/carbon mix. The new cannondales were actually designed as MTB tandems, you will see the "fatty" fork looks way out of proportion with road wheels on. The cannondale geometry is also different, even on the older ones it is a lot more relaxed compared to other brands. But you can still get an aggressive setup with different stems etc.

IMHO, don't skimp on wheels. There is not much difference in frame quality that you will notice but wheels is NB and don't use those cr@p rolfs, you will have endless issues. Just ask any of the tandem riders in the club if they have had a set of problem free rolf tandem wheels. MF and I have imported rolf spokes plenty times before and they not cheap. We have 4 sets of wheels, 2 rolfs, 1 white industry/sun and a carbon set. The rolfs can't go 200km without giving issues, the other 2 just keep on going and all 4 sets have been built by my toppie.

 

Hi Long Wheel Base, strange to hear someone having problems with Rolf tandem wheels.  We had our since 2011 and never had any problems with it.  We once hit a pothole and the rim broke, which is understandable.  Had the rim replaced and it was as good as new.  Must say they are very pricey these days.  When we bought ours, we paid R7500 for it new.

[Long Wheel Base]

Hi Long Wheel Base, strange to hear someone having problems with Rolf tandem wheels.  We had our since 2011 and never had any problems with it.  We once hit a pothole and the rim broke, which is understandable.  Had the rim replaced and it was as good as new.  Must say they are very pricey these days.  When we bought ours, we paid R7500 for it new.

Yeah we have endless issues. I think a lot of the problem comes down to too few spokes. The front wheels especially, the spokes come loose. We tried putting stuff on the threads and still issues. The rear wheels we break spokes often and a few times it damaged the frame. Have a lot better reliability from the other 2 sets of wheels. There are a few other tandem riders that I know of that have the same issues. I think you have been very lucky and I am jealous because they are nice wheels and the hubs are decent. IICR our one set is the same as your set, I remember meeting you at a race before.

Yeah they are very pricey and now that there is no dealer in the country anymore, all spares need to be ordered directly from rolf in USA. I have bought 3 sets of their spoke kits(comes with 6 spokes and 6 nipples-2 front, 2 drive side rear and 2 non drive side rear) in the last 2 years and it really isn't worth sticking with them anymore.

[Long Wheel Base]

What gearing are you guys using? We currently have 10s and are about to pull the trigger on 11s. Main reason being we struggling to find a slightly bigger cluster in 10s. We currently use a 28-11 cluster.  There have been times when we in the 28t and both of us say one more gear would be nice. We running 44t/56t chainrings. We saw a 32-12 in 10s but the 12t is not small enough, definitely need that 11t. So 11s does have a 32-11 option. Now I am wondering, we use a XTR rear derailleur. Wondering if this will still work or would we need to get a 11speed specific RD? Then, why are tandem RDs always the long reach ones? Most guys say it's because tandems often use MTB gearing but we pretty much using road gearing so I assume I could use a normal 11s RD if I did have to get a new one?

[TNT1]

What gearing are you guys using? We currently have 10s and are about to pull the trigger on 11s. Main reason being we struggling to find a slightly bigger cluster in 10s. We currently use a 28-11 cluster.  There have been times when we in the 28t and both of us say one more gear would be nice. We running 44t/56t chainrings. We saw a 32-12 in 10s but the 12t is not small enough, definitely need that 11t. So 11s does have a 32-11 option. Now I am wondering, we use a XTR rear derailleur. Wondering if this will still work or would we need to get a 11speed specific RD? Then, why are tandem RDs always the long reach ones? Most guys say it's because tandems often use MTB gearing but we pretty much using road gearing so I assume I could use a normal 11s RD if I did have to get a new one?

The long cage rd is because most tandems are running a triple up front. You need the long cage to accommodate the excess chain slack. (it's effectively the same issue an MTB has, with the huge difference between the small and large rear sprockets even running 1x)

 

You are running a double at the front, so you can probably get away with a regular cage rd, but running a 32 at the rear, I'd stick with a long cage rd.

[Long Wheel Base]

The long cage rd is because most tandems are running a triple up front. You need the long cage to accommodate the excess chain slack. (it's effectively the same issue an MTB has, with the huge difference between the small and large rear sprockets even running 1x)

 

You are running a double at the front, so you can probably get away with a regular cage rd, but running a 32 at the rear, I'd stick with a long cage rd.

Thanks, and WRT an older 10s XTR and then new 11s shifters, would it work? I don't see why not but some guys seem to think otherwise. A RD mos just moves up and down the amount it gets told to? or is there more to it like angles of pull, spacing between the gears(11s is obviously narrower) and more higher grade stuff like that?

[TNT1]

Thanks, and WRT an older 10s XTR and then new 11s shifters, would it work? I don't see why not but some guys seem to think otherwise. A RD mos just moves up and down the amount it gets told to? or is there more to it like angles of pull, spacing between the gears(11s is obviously narrower) and more higher grade stuff like that?

 

The theory

The pull ratio for Shimano mountain bike 10 and 11 speed shifting components (shifters and derailleurs) are very similar (1.2 v's 1.1 respectively).  Basically, the 11 speed Shimano MTB shifters pull 3.6mm of cable per click.  10 speed shifters pull 3.4mm of cable per click.  Accordingly, to use this shifter as a 10 speed shifter (with one un-used click) with a 10 speed derailleur and cassette, we need to reduce movement at the derailleur arm by about 5.5%.

In practice

It works!  Basically, nothing is really needed to get this setup working properly (even though in an ideal world you want a 5% reduction in cable pull at the rear derailleur). Here's how:

• install your 11 speed shifter and cable it up to your 10 speed rear derailleur;
• put the shifter in the "11" (the smallest cog on the cassette);
• adjust the bottom limit screw so the jockey wheel lines up with the smallest cog on the cassette;
• install the shift cable so there's no slack;
• use the shifter to shift up 9 gears;
• adjust the top limit screw on the rear derailleur so it is not possible to do the 10th click on the shifter (preventing you shifting up into a non-existant 11th gear);
• shift into the 5th smallest gear on the cassette and fine adjust the shifting so its crisp between gears 4, 5, 6  and 7 on the cassette.

 

I dunno if that translate into road shifters, but it should work. If it was me, I'd try it first and if it doesn't then hit the classifieds for a newer RD?

[Long Wheel Base]

 

I dunno if that translate into road shifters, but it should work. If it was me, I'd try it first and if it doesn't then hit the classifieds for a newer RD?

 

Thanks man. Yeah let me try it out with the 10s and if we hak vas then i'll shop a 11s RD.

[TNT1]

Oh ya, I also think using a long cage RD saves you like 0.00000001watts, cause the chain goes round an effectively wider radius, so there's a friction reduction or something like that...

[Long Wheel Base]

Oh ya, I also think using a long cage RD saves you like 0.00000001watts, cause the chain goes round an effectively wider radius, so there's a friction reduction or something like that...

I'll buy into that. I need all the help(even if its only a mental gain) I can get.

[TNT1]

I'll buy into that. I need all the help(even if its only a mental gain) I can get.

I just yell louder at my stoker...

 

(But not too loud. Actually not at all, maybe just in my head, cause she is also my fiancee...)

[Paul Ruinaard]

Look second hand - there are lots. I sold my Cannondale RT 1000 for R 23k. Just wait. Alos look on FB Marketplace. Tandems arent the easiest things to sell. Get discs if you can but even good vBrakes work.

[Long Wheel Base]

I just yell louder at my stoker...

 

(But not too loud. Actually not at all, maybe just in my head, cause she is also my fiancee...)

LOL. I have ridden once with my wife on the tandem. It went well but she is not a serious rider so I am not sure we would ever race together. It may also have gone well because we were just out riding for the fun of it, different story when you need to power to be put down and the turbo just isn't spooling up. My toppie is a different story, he's like a V8 and just stamps the watts out consistently. He lacks the instant power of the younger guys but once he gets going it's hurt box for me.