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Wire bead tyre for tubeless?


Whipme

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Posted

What is difference between tubeless ready and tubeless ?

Maxxis owns the patent on the UST name. It details a rim and tyre cross section that behaves to their specs, and provides an interlocking interface that means you don't need sealant for it to seal.

 

Tubeless ready is essentially everyone else's tubeless approach. In order to make a proper seal, sealant may be required.

 

But then the UST standard isn't really that popular as every manufacturer would have to pay royalties in order to carry the mark.

 

And I wouldn't run any tyre without sealant anyway. So TLR or UST essentially makes fokkol difference at the end of the day.

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Posted

I meant R1200 for two tyres. That seems to be the going rate in Pretoria at the moment

Yup 2 x Maxis Crossmarks UST tyres R800 at Cyclelab. 

2 x TLR Race King R580 at CWC 

Posted

Maxxis owns the patent on the UST name. It details a rim and tyre cross section that behaves to their specs, and provides an interlocking interface that means you don't need sealant for it to seal.

 

Tubeless ready is essentially everyone else's tubeless approach. In order to make a proper seal, sealant may be required.

 

But then the UST standard isn't really that popular as every manufacturer would have to pay royalties in order to carry the mark.

 

And I wouldn't run any tyre without sealant anyway. So TLR or UST essentially makes fokkol difference at the end of the day.

Neither would I,however cannot agree with the rest of your statement.Try topping up a TLR with sealant out in the middle of nowhere.

Posted

OKO?

Stans. 

 

But yeah. Getting some tire beads off is more difficult than others. But it's not a UST vs TLR thing. It's also a rim flange thing and a rim profile thing. My Schwalbes come off reasonably easy compared to my old WTB's, and my Spaz tyre comes off with a bit more muscle. 

 

But why are you replacing sealant in the middle of nowhere, anyway? Unless there's a major blowout which necessitates the replacement... In which case, where are your tyre levers? If you're carrying sealant, you may as well carry some crowbars. 

Posted

Stans. 

 

But yeah. Getting some tire beads off is more difficult than others. But it's not a UST vs TLR thing. It's also a rim flange thing and a rim profile thing. My Schwalbes come off reasonably easy compared to my old WTB's, and my Spaz tyre comes off with a bit more muscle. 

 

But why are you replacing sealant in the middle of nowhere, anyway? Unless there's a major blowout which necessitates the replacement... In which case, where are your tyre levers? If you're carrying sealant, you may as well carry some crowbars. 

Ha ha   I have been running Mavic 2bliss wheels since V brake days and apart from being pretty much bomb proof it has always been a simple thing to add sealant whether at home or in the field.I have had some serious sealant sprays  from a big hole and carry a refill of snot and plugs in my camelbak.Levers are carried as a matter of course

Posted

Ha ha   I have been running Mavic 2bliss wheels since V brake days and apart from being pretty much bomb proof it has always been a simple thing to add sealant whether at home or in the field.I have had some serious sealant sprays  from a big hole and carry a refill of snot and plugs in my camelbak.Levers are carried as a matter of course

Yeah, that's a good thing to do. I have the same in my big-bag-of-goodies. 25l Dakine AMP for my longer rides... That thing can get HEAVY!!!

Posted

Yup 2 x Maxis Crossmarks UST tyres R800 at Cyclelab. 

2 x TLR Race King R580 at CWC 

 

Wow, thanks for that. I didn't even know CWC existed till now.

The spanner in the works is that I'm working with 26" wheels, which the whole damn industry has decided is crap and not worth supporting anymore. So my choices are very very limited.

Posted

Wow, thanks for that. I didn't even know CWC existed till now.

The spanner in the works is that I'm working with 26" wheels, which the whole damn industry has decided is crap and not worth supporting anymore. So my choices are very very limited.

My commuter is a 26" so I'm in the same boat, parts becoming less and less. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Sharing my experience with using wire bead tyres tubeless:
Magic Mary 2.5 - no problems whatsoever.

High Roller 2.5 - It got out of a Superstar rim on a corner. Later with a Deemax rim on an off-camber landing some dirt got between the tire and rim (because the rim bit into the dirt). Upon taking out all the air and removing the dirt from the inside of the rim, I was easily able to inflate it again. I think both these cases were due to the extreme grip of the HR in certain situations, so they might need extra air - I run them with 30 psi at the back now.

Kenda BBG - No problems whatosever, but I was unable to inflate them with a certain DT tubeless-ready rim.

DHF 2.5 ST - Used it on the rear with several rims, never had any problem.

None of these were supposedely tubeless-ready, but they were 26" downhill tires weighing 1170-1400 grams.

Posted

Wow, thanks for that. I didn't even know CWC existed till now.

The spanner in the works is that I'm working with 26" wheels, which the whole damn industry has decided is crap and not worth supporting anymore. So my choices are very very limited.

Yip, go scratch around at Solomons, they often have "bargain bins" which is where I found 26r TL tyres for the wifes bike
Posted

Due to a real lack of choice in 29plus tyres up until recently, I've been running wire bead Knards for a couple of years. I found the trick was using a split tube instead of gorilla tape. both front and rear made a satisfying pop when they seated and have been perfect.

 

I haven't rolled a tyre off the rim, even at 0.4bar. Granted, I'm no #Enduro rider, but steep, rocky descents and fast berms are my favourite trail features, both of which put stress on the bead interface.

Posted

Don't wire bead tyres also have EXO protection as well???

 

If so then you should be fine to run the wire bead tyres without worry of side wall cuts! It may just be a mission to seat it intially. I run a Maxxis 2.4 Ardent up front which is a non-TR (tubeless ready) but has EXO side wall protection. Had to pomp my moer off to get it to seat and seal. While it is not a wire bead tyre it is essentially supposed to be used with tubes due to the millions of tiny ribs that run along the bead area of the tyre!

 

Whipme - Take a pic of the tyre and info on the side wall

Posted

I've actually resorted to running with tubes till I can find some tyres for a good price. It's a bit of a weight penalty but working out okay for now. I've now seen the major difference between tube and tubeless tyres, being a thicker and stiffer sidewall on the tubeless ones

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