SRAM Guide RS vs Shimano SLX M7000

[Mada3400]

I've owned SLXs, DB5s and i currently have guide RS's

 

I got the SLX brakes new and out the box they had a very inconsistent bite point, which never went away and ate into my confidence with the brakes. They also didn't have that much power (200mm rotor, 26in wheel), if I leant back and pulled the front brake as hard as i could on tar the rear wheel would stay on the ground, so i sold them and got...

 

Sram DB5s, also new, out the box these immediately felt much better, the bite point was consistent and the top end power was perceptibly more than the SLXs. "This is more like it" I thought, they were as good as the magnificent (albeit temperamental) Avid X0 brakes (thanks Cap) i had on a previous bike. With the DB5s I could do that brake into corners where your rear wheel has no weight on it, but is still on the ground, and even then i could feather the back brake so it wouldnt lock, seriously, they were that good. I later sold that bike, along with the brakes and got a bike with...

 

The Sram Guide RS brakes, now these are much the same as the DB5s, only with more bite at the top end, which is fine because the modulation is there. Since getting these brakes I can now do pretty comfortable rolling stoppies, but I hesitate to put that down to only the brakes as the whole bike has changed.

 

 

From my experience, the Guides are pretty magical, I hear they have had a pretty patchy reliability history, but spares should be quickly available, I would say the sacrifice is worth it. If you're on a budget however, the DB5s I had blew the SLX brakes out the water.

[Skylark]

The deore 615 is the best value, basically Xt/slx but without all the adjustment knobs or bling, pretty awesome brakes. The shimano lever is amazing and the modulation/power is good.

[Meezo]

https://www.bikehub.co.za/index.php?app=hubmarket&do=view_item&item_id=244346

[Mintman]

Out of interest, what do the Guide lovers think about the older Avid Elixir CR brakeset?

 

I've currently got one. It feels pretty decent but perhaps a bit warbly/ noisey. Modulation seems fine. Just interested whether the Guide RS or RSC will be worth it.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Out of interest, what do the Guide lovers think about the older Avid Elixir CR brakeset?

 

I've currently got one. It feels pretty decent but perhaps a bit warbly/ noisey. Modulation seems fine. Just interested whether the Guide RS or RSC will be worth it.

The warble is mostly down to the disc you use. If it's the stock Avid disc then that's likely your problem.

 

Old elixir brakesets were VERY good. I had a set of Elixir 5's (which I sold to Mada3400) and a set of Elixir XX. There were batches of XX brakes that had problems with the seals, and the magnesium inners though. 

[Mintman]

I'm using the Avid HS1 rotors (180 + 160). Are these problematic?

[Capricorn]

no issues with rubber o-rings and seals?

i used the Motul RBF 600 and 660. zero issues as well.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

I'm using the Avid HS1 rotors (180 + 160). Are these problematic?

not problematic, just squealy AF

[V12man]

i used the Motul RBF 600 and 660. zero issues as well.

The number that counts is the wet boiling point...  see below... one can also argue about how much water it takes to make it "wet" too - but that's academic

 

edit - I saw that you cannot use RBF in contact with magnesium - so some mtb brakes might have issues with that.

 

Motul RBF 660

Dry 617

Wet 399

1/2 liter is $27

 

Castrol SRF

Dry 590

Wet 518

1 liter $74.5

[Capricorn]

The number that counts is the wet boiling point...  see below... one can also argue about how much water it takes to make it "wet" too - but that's academic

 

edit - I saw that you cannot use RBF in contact with magnesium - so some mtb brakes might have issues with that.

 

Motul RBF 660

Dry 617

Wet 399

1/2 liter is $27

 

Castrol SRF

Dry 590

Wet 518

1 liter $74.5

if i were aiming to be an over-achiever, i would've just run after the numbers. But on the bike is where it mattered, and it didn't matter not having the highest number, wet or dry  I just wanted it higher performing than the stock stuff, which seemed to introduce unwanted softness after only a few races. That motul stuff was faultless from day N+1

 

Did not know about the magnesium. Thx for that.

[V12man]

if i were aiming to be an over-achiever, i would've just run after the numbers. But on the bike is where it mattered, and it didn't matter not having the highest number, wet or dry I just wanted it higher performing than the stock stuff, which seemed to introduce unwanted softness after only a few races. That motul stuff was faultless from day N+1

 

Did not know about the magnesium. Thx for that.

Believe me when I say that to approach those numbers of either you will smell those brakes at 20 paces.. I will look for similar numbers of ordinary brake fluid in the am so you can see just how far off it is from decent fluid.

 

If you ever want to check actual brake temps, I have a proper brake temp measuring device - you will see how easy it is to get to wet boiling Temps of ordinary fluid - and after a week riding in wet conditions it will almost certainly be wet - bicycle brakes don't have the greatest seals.

[Capricorn]

Believe me when I say that to approach those numbers of either you will smell those brakes at 20 paces.. I will look for similar numbers of ordinary brake fluid in the am so you can see just how far off it is from decent fluid.

 

If you ever want to check actual brake temps, I have a proper brake temp measuring device - you will see how easy it is to get to wet boiling Temps of ordinary fluid - and after a week riding in wet conditions it will almost certainly be wet - bicycle brakes don't have the greatest seals.

 

On the matter of wet weather riding, i have to admit I hardly ride when its pissing outside. Maybe if i do more wet weather riding, I'll hit the limits of the motul magic.

 

forgot to ask earlier: what's the cost of the castrol SRF in local pricing?

[Bizkit031]

The XT and SLX are basically the same brakeset. The XT has adjustment for lever reach and the brake pad pin is threaded as opposed to just a splitpin jobbie. Internals are identical, same performance.

I have Guides, best modulation I have felt before. No issues with mine either but havent had them too long.

Yea I know that.

[Bizkit031]

Hi,

I'm a big guy at 95kg.

My bike had XTR 9000 (with Freezer rotor etc) and over heated on long downhills... Even with 180 rear rotor.

Changed to Guide brakes and never looked. Very happy.

 

I'm told its something to do with the oil. Shimano oil not as good as SRAM oil. Not sure why, but for me the proof is in the breaking.

 

Maybe those "problems" were from version one brakes?

Mine are perfect and over a year old now (including a Epic)

 

Hope that helps.

I weight 105kg and have SLX brakes with 180mm icetec rotors front and rear as well as the vented pads and have never had any issues with overheating and have had the brakes for 3 years now.There is couple of us in our riding group that are over 100kg and run the same breaks and even Deore and no issues.I am not saying they are perfect but they are pretty bomb proof and reasonably priced. I came from SRAM brakes and changed because they were not reliable and the pricey to repair.#justmyopinion

[Mr lee]

I weight 105kg and have SLX brakes with 180mm icetec rotors front and rear as well as the vented pads and have never had any issues with overheating and have had the brakes for 3 years now.There is couple of us in our riding group that are over 100kg and run the same breaks and even Deore and no issues.I am not saying they are perfect but they are pretty bomb proof and reasonably priced. I came from SRAM brakes and changed because they were not reliable and the pricey to repair.#justmyopinion

Which Ice-tech rotors do you have? Model number? RTXX?

 

Are you running metal or resin pads with the fins?

[V12man]

On the matter of wet weather riding, i have to admit I hardly ride when its pissing outside. Maybe if i do more wet weather riding, I'll hit the limits of the motul magic.

 

forgot to ask earlier: what's the cost of the castrol SRF in local pricing?

About 1300 per liter - depends on your supplier a bit - problem is it's only available in 1l containers. (not a problem if you use it in your car)

 

I did check the wet boiling point of castrol dot 4 fluid (ordinary fluid) and it's 155deg C  -so 311F - so you can see there is a massive difference to the capability of the fluids.