Is it possible to convert a shimano 142x12 rear hub to 135 x12

[tsling]

I need some advice please. I have a new shimano mt66 wheelset and the rear hub is 142x12 shimano hub, my old wheelset currently on the bike is a 135x12. Is there any way that I convert the 142x12 hub to 135x12? Can't I change the end cones on the hubs or buy a 135x12 axle for the hub?

 

Thanks

[BaGearA]

I don't think so and its probably 135x9

[popcorn_skollie]

With oem shimano hubs I doubt there are interchangeable cups.

You'll probably have to re-lace the new hoop to old hub.

Which can be pricey especially if you need new spokes.

If this is the case and you going to end up spending anyways.

Bite the bullet. Buy a decent rear hub and lace it up.

 

I don't think so and its probably 135x9

 

You're probably right. But FYI 135x12 through axle frames and hubs do exist.

They're not common. But definitely out there. 

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

or.... you can remove the right amount of material on each side.... 

 

135x12 and 142x12 are after all just different end cap standards. And you should have the 135mm axle already. 

[tsling]

So you saying it could work if you remove 3.5mm off each side?

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

So you saying it could work if you remove 3.5mm off each side?

If you remove 7mm total, yes. I'm not sure as to which side the removal should be, but I *think* it should be non-drive side, as the cassette would be pretty close to the rear triabgle anyway. 

 

you'd need to re-dish the wheel, but that's not an issue assuming there's enough thread on the spokes to allow that. 

 

Would need a bit more investigation from your side as to which would be the best side to grind down. 

 

If you're not prepared to do that - it's gonna be a new hub and a re-laced wheel. 

[madbradd]

If you remove 7mm total, yes. I'm not sure as to which side the removal should be, but I *think* it should be non-drive side, as the cassette would be pretty close to the rear triabgle anyway.

 

you'd need to re-dish the wheel, but that's not an issue assuming there's enough thread on the spokes to allow that.

 

Would need a bit more investigation from your side as to which would be the best side to grind down.

 

If you're not prepared to do that - it's gonna be a new hub and a re-laced wheel.

Non drive side has the disc though....

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Non drive side has the disc though....

it's the same size hub body. Just different size adapters. 

 

IOW a 142 frame would have the brake caliper mounts slightly inboard, or a slightly more recessed dropout, in order to reach the same brake disc mountings. 

 

But that's also why I said he'd have to do some investigation in to determining how much of which side to take off. Too much on one side would result in the disc being too inboard or outboard, or the cassette fouling on the drive side chainstays. 

 

EDIT: Remember - the Giant Trance had a rear dropout conversion to change to 142x12 from the standard 135x9. All that changed was the dropouts and the end caps. 135x12 is EXACTLY the same width as 135x9, just that it has the thru axle.

 

http://forums.mtbr.com/attachments/giant/932220d1413663807-anyone-done-12x142-conversion-their-new-anthem-image_975_4_5637387406.jpg

[madbradd]

it's the same size hub body. Just different size adapters. 

 

IOW a 142 frame would have the brake caliper mounts slightly inboard, or a slightly more recessed dropout, in order to reach the same brake disc mountings. 

 

But that's also why I said he'd have to do some investigation in to determining how much of which side to take off. Too much on one side would result in the disc being too inboard or outboard, or the cassette fouling on the drive side chainstays. 

 

EDIT: Remember - the Giant Trance had a rear dropout conversion to change to 142x12 from the standard 135x9. All that changed was the dropouts and the end caps. 135x12 is EXACTLY the same width as 135x9, just that it has the thru axle.

 

http://forums.mtbr.com/attachments/giant/932220d1413663807-anyone-done-12x142-conversion-their-new-anthem-image_975_4_5637387406.jpg

 

https://www.bikerumor.com/2014/12/19/2016-axle-standards-part-1-rear-148mm-thru-axle-coming-fast-its-about-more-than-just-better-wheels/

 

This is great for comparison but doesn't have the 135TA included - only the 135QR. I assume that the 135TA/142TA is the same as the 150TA/157TA - that is that the 135TA sits inside the face of a "flat" dropout where the 142QR sits in a "notch" in the dropout.

[David Marshall]

These hubs are not changeable as the bearing cups are different sizes for the QR and thru axle versions.  Imo not worth modifying.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

These hubs are not changeable as the bearing cups are different sizes for the QR and thru axle versions. Im

 

o not worth modifying.

Read again, David. His existing frame is 135x12 His new wheels hub is 142x12. Therefore the bearings are the same size. Just the adapter that is different and is modifiable if you do some proper measurements

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

https://www.bikerumor.com/2014/12/19/2016-axle-standards-part-1-rear-148mm-thru-axle-coming-fast-its-about-more-than-just-better-wheels/

 

This is great for comparison but doesn't have the 135TA included - only the 135QR. I assume that the 135TA/142TA is the same as the 150TA/157TA - that is that the 135TA sits inside the face of a "flat" dropout where the 142QR sits in a "notch" in the dropout.

Correct. So he just needs to remove the material in the right areas on the end caps and hey presto

[tsling]

Thanks guys for the help. I have attached photos

[Ryno.]

Those wheels are not worth modifying, sell the wheelset and invest in the right one for your bike.

[David Marshall]

Read again, David. His existing frame is 135x12 His new wheels hub is 142x12. Therefore the bearings are the same size. Just the adapter that is different and is modifiable if you do some proper measurements

My bad - but still not worth the change.  The drive side cone will not be easy to modify.  I have a lathe and milling machine and still would not attempt it.

[droo]

If you remove 7mm total, yes. I'm not sure as to which side the removal should be, but I *think* it should be non-drive side, as the cassette would be pretty close to the rear triabgle anyway. 

 

you'd need to re-dish the wheel, but that's not an issue assuming there's enough thread on the spokes to allow that. 

 

Would need a bit more investigation from your side as to which would be the best side to grind down. 

 

If you're not prepared to do that - it's gonna be a new hub and a re-laced wheel. 

 

Sir Bodge-A-Lot to the rescue!

 

(I'd rebuild with a proper convertible hub, but I don't like Shimano so I'm biased.)