Hairy Posted August 23, 2017 Share LOL at local retailers again... Buy online XT is 88EUR+VAT= R1600, landed at your door. including shipping? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lechatnoir Posted August 23, 2017 Share including shipping?Possibly, but doubt it includes duties. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverInTheRoad Posted August 23, 2017 Share No offence to Lyne but, Shimano is the King of cranks. They will survive nuclear war. SLX is a no-brainer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamS2 Posted August 23, 2017 Share Possibly, but doubt it includes duties.No duties on parts. Delivery is free This will cost Just over R1700 including VAT. There are cheaper options at Bike Discount and Bike24. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/za/en/shimano-xt-m8000-single-11-speed-crankset/rp-prod135835 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jewbacca Posted August 23, 2017 Share No offence to Lyne but, Shimano is the King of cranks. They will survive nuclear war. SLX is a no-brainer.I do agree, but I have 1 question to everyone here. How do cranks break? If you don't mash the pedal threads? I have done a lot of bike riding in the last 25 years and have never ever 'broken' a set of cranks. I have put dings in the pedal ends and have had lock screws fail and needed to replace some bolts here or there but spindle cranks (not square taper that do wear and develop play) if installed correctly seem to go and go and go and go... I have a set of old SRAM cranks that have probably done 200 000 km and are still going strong despite looking incredibly worn and old... I have had over a year of hard riding with my Lyne cranks and they have been faultless. I think the percentages in the differences to most alu cranksets isn't even noticeable to anyone on regularly on this website. Despite weight, all mid range good quality cranks do the business just as well as another. Price vs weight or just price and part availability. The issue with the new Shimano cranksets is the squashed BCD... they kind of screw you on proprietary parts and charge a premium for they chainrings... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted August 23, 2017 Share I do agree, but I have 1 question to everyone here. How do cranks break? If you don't mash the pedal threads? I have done a lot of bike riding in the last 25 years and have never ever 'broken' a set of cranks. I have put dings in the pedal ends and have had lock screws fail and needed to replace some bolts here or there but spindle cranks (not square taper that do wear and develop play) if installed correctly seem to go and go and go and go... I have a set of old SRAM cranks that have probably done 200 000 km and are still going strong despite looking incredibly worn and old... I have had over a year of hard riding with my Lyne cranks and they have been faultless. I think the percentages in the differences to most alu cranksets isn't even noticeable to anyone on regularly on this website. Despite weight, all mid range good quality cranks do the business just as well as another. Price vs weight or just price and part availability. The issue with the new Shimano cranksets is the squashed BCD... they kind of screw you on proprietary parts and charge a premium for they chainrings...I have broken a set of roadie cranks on my commuter when accelerating from a traffic light ..... not a fun experience! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Letum911 Posted August 23, 2017 Share I do agree, but I have 1 question to everyone here. How do cranks break? If you don't mash the pedal threads? I have done a lot of bike riding in the last 25 years and have never ever 'broken' a set of cranks. I have put dings in the pedal ends and have had lock screws fail and needed to replace some bolts here or there but spindle cranks (not square taper that do wear and develop play) if installed correctly seem to go and go and go and go... I have a set of old SRAM cranks that have probably done 200 000 km and are still going strong despite looking incredibly worn and old... I have had over a year of hard riding with my Lyne cranks and they have been faultless. I think the percentages in the differences to most alu cranksets isn't even noticeable to anyone on regularly on this website. Despite weight, all mid range good quality cranks do the business just as well as another. Price vs weight or just price and part availability. The issue with the new Shimano cranksets is the squashed BCD... they kind of screw you on proprietary parts and charge a premium for they chainrings...Without questioning your reasoning on the mid range MTB cranks, with which I do agree. But regarding braking cranks: I have sheared off a crank arm on my trials bike on a rough landing from a 1.8m (+- a bit), this is after I have done countless of drops higher or doing 2+m gaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jewbacca Posted August 23, 2017 Share Without questioning your reasoning on the mid range MTB cranks, with which I do agree. But regarding braking cranks: I have sheared off a crank arm on my trials bike on a rough landing from a 1.8m (+- a bit), this is after I have done countless of drops higher or doing 2+m gaps.There are obviously failures.. trials cranks will also take a beating compared to 99% of cranks which get used for marathons and XC where most people think the gap at Bloemendal is massive... I am referring to the 99%ers... Cranks being replaced are usually 'the itch' or for cosmetic purposes. Hairy, your Wattage must have been amazing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demetri Posted August 23, 2017 Share Just finished my project. Upgraded my entry level Silverback to 1x11 using Lyne Crank and Shimano XT SLX parts. This thing can climb anything you throw at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiverInTheRoad Posted August 23, 2017 Share I do agree, but I have 1 question to everyone here. How do cranks break? If you don't mash the pedal threads? I have done a lot of bike riding in the last 25 years and have never ever 'broken' a set of cranks. I have put dings in the pedal ends and have had lock screws fail and needed to replace some bolts here or there but spindle cranks (not square taper that do wear and develop play) if installed correctly seem to go and go and go and go... I have a set of old SRAM cranks that have probably done 200 000 km and are still going strong despite looking incredibly worn and old... I have had over a year of hard riding with my Lyne cranks and they have been faultless. I think the percentages in the differences to most alu cranksets isn't even noticeable to anyone on regularly on this website. Despite weight, all mid range good quality cranks do the business just as well as another. Price vs weight or just price and part availability. The issue with the new Shimano cranksets is the squashed BCD... they kind of screw you on proprietary parts and charge a premium for they chainrings... Fair point, but IMO there is a huge difference in crank quality across brands and product groups. Specifically strength. I have mashed many cranksets in my younger days. This was from mostly "street riding" aka drops to flat. Have bent and/or stripped the ISIS (or whatever interface) spline on the following:RPM DoradoTruvativ HusslefeltRaceFace North ShoreRaceFace RideSRAM S1200Lots of square taper Shimano's (Altus level or lower) My one friend has Lyne cranks and the chainring bent within a month. I still like the Lyne cranks and think they are a good deal. But not a patch on SLX. I am a Shimano fan boy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylark Posted August 23, 2017 Share I do agree, but I have 1 question to everyone here. How do cranks break? If you don't mash the pedal threads? I have done a lot of bike riding in the last 25 years and have never ever 'broken' a set of cranks. I have put dings in the pedal ends and have had lock screws fail and needed to replace some bolts here or there but spindle cranks (not square taper that do wear and develop play) if installed correctly seem to go and go and go and go... I have a set of old SRAM cranks that have probably done 200 000 km and are still going strong despite looking incredibly worn and old... I have had over a year of hard riding with my Lyne cranks and they have been faultless. I think the percentages in the differences to most alu cranksets isn't even noticeable to anyone on regularly on this website. Despite weight, all mid range good quality cranks do the business just as well as another. Price vs weight or just price and part availability. The issue with the new Shimano cranksets is the squashed BCD... they kind of screw you on proprietary parts and charge a premium for they chainrings...Didn't know that, what BCD do the new Shimano cranks use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Letum911 Posted August 23, 2017 Share Just finished my project. Upgraded my entry level Silverback to 1x11 using Lyne Crank and Shimano XT SLX parts. This thing can climb anything you throw at it.Looks like an immediate improvement!! What did the upgrade cost and entail? Did you get a whole new cassette, shifter and derailer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted August 23, 2017 Share Didn't know that, what BCD do the new Shimano cranks use?a stupid offset one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demetri Posted August 23, 2017 Share Parts are all brand new. Search all over for good deals. Cranks ditectly from Lynne at R1699 vat and shipping included. XT M8000 shifter right and left R700, Sram chain and SLX 11-42 cassette R1150 shipping included, SLX M7000 derailer R1099 at CWCYCLES. Oh and R60 at my LBS to install the BB because i dont have the tools. All other tools like chainwhip etc i made myself and build everything self to cut the costs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headshot Posted August 23, 2017 Share Bending a chainring?? Thats quite something. That said I did manage to bend the 42 cog on my Sunrace cassette the other day. Not that it was a problem for more than 5 mins after a trailside repair job... I like the Lyne cranks and direct mount appeals. However, I doubt that they are stronger or better than SLX. Anyone have any idea how stiff the Lynes are compared to Shimano. I used to have a pair of 1994 LX cranks. The things were as bendy as anything. Obviously cranks are now all far stiffer, but the hollow tech Shimano ones have always made sense to me from a stiffness perspective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demetri Posted August 23, 2017 Share Looks like an immediate improvement!! What did the upgrade cost and entail? Did you get a whole new cassette, shifter and derailer? Parts are all brand new. Search all over for good deals. Cranks ditectly from Lynne at R1699 vat and shipping included. XT M8000 shifter right and left R700, Sram chain and SLX 11-42 cassette R1150 shipping included, SLX M7000 derailer R1099 at CWCYCLES. Oh and R60 at my LBS to install the BB because i dont have the tools. All other tools like chainwhip etc i made myself and build everything self to cut the costs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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