Piston ZA Posted November 24, 2017 Posted November 24, 2017 Interested if you guys have played around with the Mino Link and what setting you run your bikes in, and if you felt any significant difference between the high and low setting. Been running in high, but just swapped over to low. Most of the reviews and forums I've read suggest just leaving it in low?
GLuvsMtb Posted November 24, 2017 Posted November 24, 2017 Interested if you guys have played around with the Mino Link and what setting you run your bikes in, and if you felt any significant difference between the high and low setting. Been running in high, but just swapped to over to low. Most of the reviews and forums I've read suggest just leaving it in low?Mine was set up in low and it works for me. Will play around over the holidays with the high setting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Christofison Posted November 24, 2017 Author Posted November 24, 2017 Interested if you guys have played around with the Mino Link and what setting you run your bikes in, and if you felt any significant difference between the high and low setting. Been running in high, but just swapped to over to low. Most of the reviews and forums I've read suggest just leaving it in low?I've been running mine high since I bought it because I've been doing a bunch of XC races. Also because I've heard quite a lot of people complain about peddle strikes, although I haven't found that to be a problem.I'll be testing it in low these holidays when I get to do some shuttle days. Will let you know.
Piston ZA Posted November 24, 2017 Posted November 24, 2017 I've been running mine high since I bought it because I've been doing a bunch of XC races. Also because I've heard quite a lot of people complain about peddle strikes, although I haven't found that to be a problem.I'll be testing it in low these holidays when I get to do some shuttle days. Will let you know.The peddle strikes would be a concern, but even in the low position, the bb is still about 30mm higher than my previous bike. Will have to see what effect it has on the climbing though.
ChrisF Posted November 24, 2017 Posted November 24, 2017 What is the theory behind the Mino-link ? Must admit I have not touched it on my bike .... Slowly getting used the dual-suspension, tire pressures, etc ....
Christofison Posted November 24, 2017 Author Posted November 24, 2017 What is the theory behind the Mino-link ? Must admit I have not touched it on my bike .... Slowly getting used the dual-suspension, tire pressures, etc ....It basically tweaks the geometry of the bike to suit your riding style.The high setting will make the bike slightly more suited to climbing. A steeper head angle for more responsive steering, higher BB for less peddle strikes and a steeper seat tube to help weight that front wheel more. Obviously the low setting will to the opposite to make the bike feel more stable with a lower centre of gravity etc. It also affects the wheel base, trail, reach and stack slightly, but I won't go into an in depth explanation.The bike will climb and descend well in both settings, it's just a small tweak for when you want it to do better at one or the other.
ChrisF Posted November 24, 2017 Posted November 24, 2017 Nice illustration of the Mino-Link - now I will have to go try it out ...
Stevief Posted November 27, 2017 Posted November 27, 2017 I have left mine in high, due to the amount of climbing i do as well as the rocky terrain i ride, so i try minimise pedal strikes. I personally find the bike has less strikes than my previous bike (camber) . But if i did do a proper downhill route or enduro ride i will flick it to low to see what the fuss is about.
ChrisF Posted November 27, 2017 Posted November 27, 2017 I have left mine in high, due to the amount of climbing i do as well as the rocky terrain i ride, so i try minimise pedal strikes. I personally find the bike has less strikes than my previous bike (camber) . But if i did do a proper downhill route or enduro ride i will flick it to low to see what the fuss is about. I had some fun at Meerendal on Sunday morning. Included three single track downhill sections. Lack of rider skill certainly was much more of an issue of any setting on the bike .... My only "issue" was double humps ... for some reason I struggled to manual the bike, or at least a carry the front wheel long enough to not bump into the second the hump. I slowed down a bit, moved my body weight further back, and it was certainly a lot better, though no proper manuals .... been watching the videos, been trying the odd manual .... time to invest in some skills training .... I keep on telling myself this is a small part of my cycling, but then the other voice says that even trail riding (roots etc) will be better if I get these basics sorted ..... time to go back to some previous threads and follow up on leads for skills training. But skills training for a "vet rider", not a young snake ..
Stevief Posted November 27, 2017 Posted November 27, 2017 I had some fun at Meerendal on Sunday morning. Included three single track downhill sections. Lack of rider skill certainly was much more of an issue of any setting on the bike .... My only "issue" was double humps ... for some reason I struggled to manual the bike, or at least a carry the front wheel long enough to not bump into the second the hump. I slowed down a bit, moved my body weight further back, and it was certainly a lot better, though no proper manuals .... been watching the videos, been trying the odd manual .... time to invest in some skills training .... I keep on telling myself this is a small part of my cycling, but then the other voice says that even trail riding (roots etc) will be better if I get these basics sorted ..... time to go back to some previous threads and follow up on leads for skills training. But skills training for a "vet rider", not a young snake .. I also find the manual very hard to master. for double bumps either try hit the first and fly over the 2nd (very risky unless you good) or treat them like a pump track IE do not lift the front wheel but push it down so it doesnt lift and pump over the 2 humps .
Pikey Posted November 27, 2017 Posted November 27, 2017 Have mine in the classifieds,damn I do some dumb stuff sometimes ???? https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/280782-brand-new-trek-fuel-ex-98-with-new-mrp-ribbon/
DirtyFrank Posted November 27, 2017 Posted November 27, 2017 http://www.mbr.co.uk/reviews/full-suspension-bikes/trek-fuel-ex-5-29-review I guess he was right with his choice then!
ChrisF Posted November 27, 2017 Posted November 27, 2017 I also find the manual very hard to master. for double bumps either try hit the first and fly over the 2nd (very risky unless you good) or treat them like a pump track IE do not lift the front wheel but push it down so it doesnt lift and pump over the 2 humps . certainly elevates the heart rate when you try to fly over the second ... and the front wheel comes down just before clearing the second .... the pump track option worked better for me .... but MAN couple of sections that really ASK to be taken at speed, flying over the humps, then riding that burm .....
Piston ZA Posted November 27, 2017 Posted November 27, 2017 Nice illustration of the Mino-Link - now I will have to go try it out ... Just a quick note when changing the chip - it's not righty-tighty left-loosey, but rather reverse thread. Was bloody struggling when trying to change mine, thought they had overtightened or used loctite
ChrisF Posted November 27, 2017 Posted November 27, 2017 Just a quick note when changing the chip - it's not righty-tighty left-loosey, but rather reverse thread. Was bloody struggling when trying to change mine, thought they had overtightened or used loctite OUCH !!!! revers on both, or just the one side ?? Bikes have reverse thread on various components - on one side with standard thread on that same component on the other side ..... Think it is something like "tighten forward ... undo to the back",,,,
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