Lifer Posted January 7, 2018 Posted January 7, 2018 I have a 2016 Spez Camber Comp with stock drive train that needs replacing. I have a GX Eagle upgrade kit but am wandering what else I need, specifically:1) XD driver - if I can source a Specialized Formula XD Driver Freehub FH- 535HA part S162100006, will it fit and be enough to sort out the back hub. If not what is the exact model I need to source and or what else?2) Do I need a new crankset or can I get away with just a new chainring?2.1) if just chainring and want to go absolute black oval do I need a 6mm offset or 0mm? Would any other adaptors be needed?2.2) if need crankset I assume I need a BB30 model as current crank/ BB is a PF30 or can I go GXP which seems to be the more freely available? I’ve been trying to figure this out but am too inexperienced to be sure and don’t want to order incorrect parts. Tried phoning 2 Spez dealers but not getting all the answers so any help would be appreciated, thanks.
nickc Posted January 7, 2018 Posted January 7, 2018 You will need the XD driver, but as far as the Crank and Chainring go you can get away with not changing them if you are on an existing 11 speed setup.
Lifer Posted January 7, 2018 Author Posted January 7, 2018 You will need the XD driver, but as far as the Crank and Chainring go you can get away with not changing them if you are on an existing 11 speed setup.Thanks, just to clarify, I know I need an XD driver but not sure of the exact model required or will any work? The store said they would rather i bring it in as they are not sure if I need a ratchet or pawl fitting. Re. crank, no unfortunately the stock setup on the 2016 Camber Comp is 2x10.
Grease_Monkey Posted January 7, 2018 Posted January 7, 2018 With regards to the crank, you do not need to replace it. And you will need a 6mm offset chain ring. 3mm is for Boost and 0mm for Cannondales AFIAK. You will need an XD driver, take your wheel in to Spez to order the right driver for your hub - they have in stock most of the time, but just be warned they are expensive. EDIT: Your current crank is 2x10. You will need a 104bcd chainring, they are usually 0mm offsett so you can buy some chain ring spacers from Rapide for R30 to get your chainline right.
Lifer Posted January 7, 2018 Author Posted January 7, 2018 With regards to the crank, you do not need to replace it. And you will need a 6mm offset chain ring. 3mm is for Boost and 0mm for Cannondales AFIAK. You will need an XD driver, take your wheel in to Spez to order the right driver for your hub - they have in stock most of the time, but just be warned they are expensive. EDIT: Your current crank is 2x10. You will need a 104bcd chainring, they are usually 0mm offsett so you can buy some chain ring spacers from Rapide for R30 to get your chainline right.Reason Spez shop gave for new cranks was that the current crank does not have removable spider. I'd assume that simply fitting the 104bcd ring would work unless that is not possible due to the fixed spider? I was hoping to source the XD driver in the US as have family there coming back this week, hence looking for the model number to order...
Graham W Posted January 7, 2018 Posted January 7, 2018 You could also go for a Sunrace 12spd cassette about the same price as sram cassette then no need for a XD drive
Lifer Posted January 7, 2018 Author Posted January 7, 2018 You could also go for a Sunrace 12spd cassette about the same price as sram cassette then no need for a XD driveThanks, yeah although already have the 10t SRAM...
Grease_Monkey Posted January 7, 2018 Posted January 7, 2018 Reason Spez shop gave for new cranks was that the current crank does not have removable spider. I'd assume that simply fitting the 104bcd ring would work unless that is not possible due to the fixed spider?You are correct... the 104bcd will fit straight onto the existing spider. Make sure that you get spacers though... you don't wanna get the chain line wrong.
keithbe Posted January 7, 2018 Posted January 7, 2018 After the happy holiday season...spare cash ????
Traveler Posted January 8, 2018 Posted January 8, 2018 Agree with Grease_Monkey. even if it is a 2xsomething crank, you can drop the old chainrings and replace with a NW chainring from Rapide or Kalbo. The spacers are crucial to get the new chainring as close as possible to the frame to get the best possible chainline. 11spd chainrings are completely compatible with 12spd chains. I am using a Rapide chainring with GX Eagle. Service, quality and price from Wayne at Rapide is hard to beat.
madbradd Posted January 8, 2018 Posted January 8, 2018 On your freehub, just make sure that all you need is the freehub... On my hub (Chosen, but same system as the Stans 3.30) I also need a different drive side QR/TA adapter and there is a different spacer.
Lifer Posted January 8, 2018 Author Posted January 8, 2018 You are correct... the 104bcd will fit straight onto the existing spider. Make sure that you get spacers though... you don't wanna get the chain line wrong. With regards to the crank, you do not need to replace it. And you will need a 6mm offset chain ring. 3mm is for Boost and 0mm for Cannondales AFIAK. You will need an XD driver, take your wheel in to Spez to order the right driver for your hub - they have in stock most of the time, but just be warned they are expensive. EDIT: Your current crank is 2x10. You will need a 104bcd chainring, they are usually 0mm offsett so you can buy some chain ring spacers from Rapide for R30 to get your chainline right.For anyone else looking to this for similar advice, the Spez tech guys confirmed:1) The Specialized Formula XD Driver Freehub FH- 535HA is the one to go for.2) Pretty much what Grease_Monkey said above re. cranks and chainring. New cranks would make it neater but more expensive of course (& 6mm offset chainring for chainline), a 104bcd chainring can work on the original cranks but spacers will be needed to get the chainline aligned, thanks Grease_Monkey!
WrightJnr Posted January 8, 2018 Posted January 8, 2018 I could not source that XD driver locally. No stock. If you don’t come right drop me a message and I’ll give you details on where I got mine online. I used the existing washer on my original cranks as a spacer any got my chainline perfect on my Camber. Also the NW chainring I got was offset so you could adjust the chainline by turning it around.
NotSoBigBen Posted January 8, 2018 Posted January 8, 2018 As a matter of interest what does a 'perfect' 1* chain line look like and how crucial is it? Sent from my LG-D958 using Tapatalk
Grease_Monkey Posted January 8, 2018 Posted January 8, 2018 As a matter of interest what does a 'perfect' 1* chain line look like and how crucial is it? Sent from my LG-D958 using Tapatalk Perfect chainline would be that your chainring is in line with the middle cog of the cassette, or slightly inboard of that. If your chainline is outboard of that middle cog the angle of the chain when ridden in the easiest cog at the back is quite extreme leading to premature wear on the cassette and chain. When the angle is very extreme the chain also tends to slip when in the easiest gear while freewheeling or backpedaling - especially when that easiest gear is a 46t or 50t cog. Considering the cost of 11spd and 12spd cassettes, it's something I would make effort to get right. And... it can all be fixed with R30 worth of spacers
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