Quagga Posted January 25, 2018 Share I normally take a long hex, and then hit it with a rubber hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cippo Posted January 25, 2018 Share I normally take a long hex, and then hit it with a rubber hammer.There is more chance of stripping the head of the bolt. I took the right sized hex key and fitted it to a socket. The end was cut off so I can use the socket with a 1/2 inch wrench or T-bar. Edited January 25, 2018 by Cippo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schnavel Posted January 25, 2018 Share Spidey, I have the exact same crank as you (Sram red quarq BB30). It's a standard thread I.e. Righty tighty, lefty loosey It should be a 10mm allen key (if I remember correctly) - insert that and then use a pipe (old vacuum cleaner extension pipe works) to extend the leverage. This is normally a two person job as one needs to operate the extended allen key and the other needs to stand on the pedal to allow you to apply the force - very seldom can I remove the crank by myself. Spinnekop 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagga Posted January 25, 2018 Share There is more chance of stripping the head of the bolt. I took the right sized hex key and fitted it to a socket. The end was cut off so I can use the socket with a 1/2 inch wrench or T-bar.How can you strip the head if the, the allen key fits in there perfectly. What you are doing it essentially the same, I just dont use the t-bar, as the allen key(hex) is bend allready and holding the crank you can then tap it with the rubber mallet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iwan Kemp Posted January 25, 2018 Share 1. Make sure you are loosening the drive side 2. Counter clockwise to loosten3. If it still doesn't work- Loosten self extracting cap- Loosten crank bolt by itselfAssuming the helps - Grease the bolt - Put the cap back and then try loosten again like you would've to start off with Still not, go to a bike shop. Spinnekop 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat2forLife Posted January 25, 2018 Share The thread on these cranks is normal (not reversed). You'll just have to use a lot of elbow grease. Eat an extra brick of Wheatbix today. When I worked on these types of things as a so called "shop jock", I would stand on one pedal and then use my other foot to loosen the bolt with a proper hex wrench. If that didn't work, we would just put a aluminium pipe over the hex wrench (to get some leverage) and one would stand on the pedal and the other on the pipe. We also had a gorilla of a guy to loosen things if all else failed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinnekop Posted January 25, 2018 Share Thank you everyone for the info and help. Sorted Went and bought 1/2" 8mm Alan-key socket. Got it going with that. Thank you again for all the help and advice! Edited January 25, 2018 by Spinnekop Cippo and Iwan Kemp 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cippo Posted January 25, 2018 Share How can you strip the head if the, the allen key fits in there perfectly. What you are doing it essentially the same, I just dont use the t-bar, as the allen key(hex) is bend allready and holding the crank you can then tap it with the rubber mallet.If it works for you all good. I prefer to loosen it in a more controlled fashion without using a hammer. I was merely mentioning it as the socket method allows the use of a wrench or powerbar to add more leverage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted January 25, 2018 Share Glad you got it sorted. Those things can be a dog. I'm actually considering buying an impact driver for this express purpose. Heat also works, but not on carbon cranks. Otherwise leverage, and make sure your knuckles aren't pointing at anything so they still work when the crack happens. Reassembly with anti-seize will help you next time. Spinnekop 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V12man Posted January 25, 2018 Share Glad you got it sorted. Those things can be a dog. I'm actually considering buying an impact driver for this express purpose. Heat also works, but not on carbon cranks. Otherwise leverage, and make sure your knuckles aren't pointing at anything so they still work when the crack happens. Reassembly with anti-seize will help you next time.Cordless Makita impact driver.... for the win..... they have several options available - and several prices... you could also get a decent air one - but you can't take it on holiday for the wheelbolts.... http://www.makitatoolsonline.co.za/index.php?route=product/category&path=1&page=2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinnekop Posted January 25, 2018 Share Cordless Makita impact driver.... for the win..... they have several options available - and several prices... you could also get a decent air one - but you can't take it on holiday for the wheelbolts.... http://www.makitatoolsonline.co.za/index.php?route=product/category&path=1&page=2I actually have a very nice industrial air impact driver from the days when my dad had the farm.But don't have a compressor in my arsenal of tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Marshall Posted January 25, 2018 Share Sram should ship the tool kit with the crank! As for the impact driver I opted for the Ryobi plug in one. It has two settings 1 = 100 nm, 2 = 200 nm max. All the air ones that I saw were about 700 nm which I thought a bit much. It works a dream on BB's and cassette lockrings but I have not had too much joy on hex keys (6 and 8 mm). Have not tried the 10 mm though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V12man Posted January 25, 2018 Share I actually have a very nice industrial air impact driver from the days when my dad had the farm.But don't have a compressor in my arsenal of tools. You should definately get a compressor..... makes a lot of things much easier - like tubleess setups - the bigger the tank the better - but you can run an impact easily on a 50l tank - just don't be in a huge hurry to undo a lot of bolts - unlikely at home anyway. Spinnekop 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V12man Posted January 25, 2018 Share Sram should ship the tool kit with the crank! As for the impact driver I opted for the Ryobi plug in one. It has two settings 1 = 100 nm, 2 = 200 nm max. All the air ones that I saw were about 700 nm which I thought a bit much. It works a dream on BB's and cassette lockrings but I have not had too much joy on hex keys (6 and 8 mm). Have not tried the 10 mm thoughYou get specific impact hex keys - these work much better than ordinary hex sockets - not sure exactly why but they do. - Toolquip and Allied can supply you with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WrightJnr Posted January 25, 2018 Share I’ve had the most success by......getting the mrs or lightly to hold the bike upright on the floor, not the bike stand. Then I have a block of wood that I put under the crank side pedal to floor. Big ass ParkTool Hex wrench, cloth over the hand, counterclockwise and give it your best. Basically above I’ve tried to eliminate all flexing sources so my full effort goes into the self extracting nut. Also helps if you have the cranks off twice a year for example, I remove to grease and clean, never have a problem anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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