TheJ Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 I have a Momsen Vipa Trail One, a Boost bike. I tried putting the bike on a diet and that involved changing the wheels. I bought a set of American Classic Boost adapters from EvoBikes for the Wide Lightning wheels I wanted to use. My guy swopped the axles for me, and also the XD driver to a Shimano compatible body (long story). Put wheels into bike, they were misaligned. Though it would be a change axles and you're done job. Quite disappointed when I saw them not centre. Did a bit of Googling and found many pages online that says the kit required a redish. EvoBikes made no mention on this on their site. So a R400 redish later, wheels are dead centre.
GrahamS2 Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 IMO do it properly and get a new fork and boost hubs. Wouldn't mix and match as the wheel stiffness will differ between front and rear then. The stiffness is quite noticeable with boost. For the crank you can get away with a standard one provided it clears the frame adequately. The difference is only 2mm.
Meezo Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 IMO do it properly and get a new fork and boost hubs. Wouldn't mix and match as the wheel stiffness will differ between front and rear then. The stiffness is quite noticeable with boost. For the crank you can get away with a standard one provided it clears the frame adequately. The difference is only 2mm.
TheJ Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 I made the same face.... Same. As if bikes with "regular" thru-axles' wheels now feel like half baked pancakes.
GrahamS2 Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 Same. As if bikes with "regular" thru-axles' wheels now feel like half baked pancakes.I never said that, but it would result in an unbalanced build, magnified more so by the stiff Orange frame he's chosen. Technically, it would have the same effect on wheel stiffness as riding with a 26 inch wheel at the back and a 29 inch wheel at the front.
T-Bob Posted February 16, 2018 Author Posted February 16, 2018 IMO do it properly and get a new fork and boost hubs. Wouldn't mix and match as the wheel stiffness will differ between front and rear then. The stiffness is quite noticeable with boost. For the crank you can get away with a standard one provided it clears the frame adequately. The difference is only 2mm.That would be ideal but I don't have a fat amount to drop on a new fork ride for now. Surely there are different stiffnesses between from and back just due to the inherent nature of them being a fork and a rear triangle. But the fact that I can happy ride a DH trail locked out and front and rear and not notice makes me think I might not be able to tell these difference at the mo'
GrahamS2 Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 That would be ideal but I don't have a fat amount to drop on a new fork ride for now. Surely there are different stiffnesses between from and back just due to the inherent nature of them being a fork and a rear triangle. But the fact that I can happy ride a DH trail locked out and front and rear and not notice makes me think I might not be able to tell these difference at the mo' Then just re-dish the rear and use spacers. Non-boost hubs front and rear = problem solved.The stiffness I mentioned is the wheel stiffness improvement boost width hubs offer.
Jewbacca Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 I never said that, but it would result in an unbalanced build, magnified more so by the stiff Orange frame he's chosen. Technically, it would have the same effect on wheel stiffness as riding with a 26 inch wheel at the back and a 29 inch wheel at the front. Do you really think so? I must be honest and say that with a plush fork and soft front tire I can't really imagine the difference is significantly noticeable. Even if it is, once again, marginal gains are lost on mere mortals. Greg Minaar was going faster than all of us go now 15 years ago on rubber bushing forks and shocks, 17mm wide rims and narrow bars with hydro rim brakes..... I can't imagine it actually makes a difference in the end
TheJ Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 ...it would have the same effect on wheel stiffness as riding with a 26 inch wheel at the back and a 29 inch wheel at the front. Really? LOL. Nope. I own : 1) Hardtail that uses quick releases.2) Dual suspension with regular thru-axles.3) Dual suspension with boost spaced axles. I'm not a funrider, so its not like I don't have experience or just talking. Blindfold me and I probably wouldn't be able to tell a difference between my three bikes in terms of stiffness. That extra 6mm that a Boost bike has isn't noticeably stiffer, and even if it was, you would never be able to tell a difference out on the trail. To the OP, go the cheapest route to get your bike sorted to hit the trails again.
GrahamS2 Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 Do you really think so? I must be honest and say that with a plush fork and soft front tire I can't really imagine the difference is significantly noticeable. Even if it is, once again, marginal gains are lost on mere mortals. Greg Minaar was going faster than all of us go now 15 years ago on rubber bushing forks and shocks, 17mm wide rims and narrow bars with hydro rim brakes..... I can't imagine it actually makes a difference in the endWhat I think doesn't matter - science says there's a 23% increase in lateral stiffness thanks to boost width hubs on 29in wheels. On a like for like comparison it was noticeable to me, especially on the front and especially under hard braking. As with going from alu to carbon rims, the reduction in flex takes a some getting used to.
GrahamS2 Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 Really? LOL. Nope. I own : 1) Hardtail that uses quick releases.2) Dual suspension with regular thru-axles.3) Dual suspension with boost spaced axles. I'm not a funrider, so its not like I don't have experience or just talking. Blindfold me and I probably wouldn't be able to tell a difference between my three bikes in terms of stiffness. That extra 6mm that a Boost bike has isn't noticeably stiffer, and even if it was, you would never be able to tell a difference out on the trail. To the OP, go the cheapest route to get your bike sorted to hit the trails again.What does thru axles or quick release have to do with it? I'm talking about wheel stiffness. Boost width hubs change the angle of the spoke relative to the rim. That's where the increase in stiffness comes from.
TheJ Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 The science that says this.... Was the study possible commissioned by the same company that MAKES the Boost spaced bikes... and stand to gain of people end up buying it? https://youtu.be/Jj0uBQ7j5c4?t=129
GrahamS2 Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 The science that says this.... Was the study possible commissioned by the same company that MAKES the Boost spaced bikes... and stand to gain of people end up buying it? https://youtu.be/Jj0uBQ7j5c4?t=129LOL. Are you really arguing that a triangle with a wider base is not more stable?
Spinnekop Posted February 16, 2018 Posted February 16, 2018 LOL. Are you really arguing that a triangle with a wider base is not more stable? Define "stable"?Have you seen the avg Saffa on a singletrack?? Boost is NOT going to help
Jewbacca Posted February 17, 2018 Posted February 17, 2018 LOL. Are you really arguing that a triangle with a wider base is not more stable? hahhaha I think he is arguing that the difference between BOOST and non boost isn't nearly as noticeable and severe as you claim it to be. I'm not going to argue. I still ride QR and bolt through hubs because I'm poor and I don't believe in progress.
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