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ICE Tech Rotors - SLX????


Balooba

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Posted

Hi Guys

 

Need to ask. I just bought a set of SLX brakes (M675)

 

Would they be compatible with Ice Tech rotors?

If so, would I need different pads?

 

Cheers

Posted

Hi Guys

 

Need to ask. I just bought a set of SLX brakes (M675)

 

Would they be compatible with Ice Tech rotors?

YES

If so, would I need different pads?

NO

 

Cheers

Posted

 

Hi Guys

 

Need to ask. I just bought a set of SLX brakes (M675)

 

Would they be compatible with Ice Tech rotors?

YES

If so, would I need different pads?

NO

 

Cheers

 

Thank you very much.

Posted

You might find that you will switch to SLX rotors in the end - they are much hardier and a lot cheaper!

 

Tom

I am not that big, 80kg's, and do moderate riding. Would they last or are the chit?

Posted

you wont notice the difference, unless you doing like seriously long and steep descends, the normal slx rotors are fine, infact i ran BBB and those Quaxar rotors for a while no issues, and not notable difference's from the ice tech, if you can just go up on rotor size, this is difference much more felt to the normal fold

Posted

I am not that big, 80kg's, and do moderate riding. Would they last or are the chit?

 

I'm 100kgs and have to replace every 6 months..

Posted

I'm 100kgs and have to replace every 6 months..

I got a new ice tech rotor with the slx brakes. Should I then rather fit it on the back and go with a slx/zee 180 on the front?

Posted

I got a new ice tech rotor with the slx brakes. Should I then rather fit it on the back and go with a slx/zee 180 on the front?

 

Either or, it shouldn't make any difference.

Posted

I got a new ice tech rotor with the slx brakes. Should I then rather fit it on the back and go with a slx/zee 180 on the front?

180mm rotor on the front, regardless of brand. But if you are buying new rotors, let them be matchy-matchy. It just looks better. But any 180mm rotor will be better than a fancy 160mm rotor. See if you can swop them out.

If you are not buying new rotors, and just use whatever is in your box, then it doesn't really matter. I've used all kinds of rotors on all kinds of brakes with many different brands of pads. As long as there is enough meat on the rotor and pads to grip and slow you down, then you'll be fine.

Posted

I'm 100kgs and have to replace every 6 months..

I'll assume you replace pads every 6 months, and not rotors, if you go through rotors at that rate then I'll be seriously impressed.
Posted

I'll assume you replace pads every 6 months, and not rotors, if you go through rotors at that rate then I'll be seriously impressed.

 

Rotors unfortunately.. That hill out my back door and fatboy momentum don't help...

Posted

I'm 100kgs and have to replace every 6 months..

 do you just do it because or do you actually measure them with A digital caliper/ micrometer ?

 

most rotors come out at 1.8mm and need to be replaced at 1.5mm 

 

magura and hope do have thicker ones ( 2mm i think) 

 

 

I've ran the same rotors for little over A year and a half and I brake hard ( more and more into enduro ) only 63kgs tho 

 

got a but more than half of their life left 

 

 

Shiamno xt ice tech  200mm and 180mm rotors , hope brakes with metal pads 

Posted

 do you just do it because or do you actually measure them with A digital caliper/ micrometer ?

 

most rotors come out at 1.8mm and need to be replaced at 1.5mm 

 

magura and hope do have thicker ones ( 2mm i think) 

 

 

I've ran the same rotors for little over A year and a half and I brake hard ( more and more into enduro ) only 63kgs tho 

 

got a but more than half of their life left 

 

 

Shiamno xt ice tech  200mm and 180mm rotors , hope brakes with metal pads 

 

Will post a pic of what they look like when I get my bike back..

 

Tom

Posted

I'll assume you replace pads every 6 months, and not rotors, if you go through rotors at that rate then I'll be seriously impressed.

I was thinking along the same lines, but I seem to have forgotten what happened to me a while back.

I was stationed for a project in De Aar and there is a koppie there called the Renosterberg. Seems high enough when Sentec uses it for one of the transmission towers. Anyway, Went there all the way to the top was fine, but I noticed no barriers and a rather typical mountain path with cemented jumps for the water run-off. Very weird off camber turn etc. and I was just too afraid to accidentally go over the edge. So, I used the brakes much more than normal, feathering almost all the way. When I got to the bottom, my rear was locked almost solid! Inspection and I saw blue metal rotor and warped to unusable proportions! I had to remove the caliper from its mounting to continue home.

Yes, a heavy bloke on a reasonable challenging downhill can cook the rotor. Incedently, the pads showed no ill effect.

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