Rockshox Fork - Cable Lockout

[droo]

Here, in all its 33 page glory.

[Me rida my bicycle]

Which lever do you have? The first 2 images are the OK ones. If it's the 3rd one that pushes in it is most probably the problem.

[BikeisLife]

The cable must in the little groove and it often gets out of it during install and lies where the Blue line is and not the red must also not touch the "lip" like circled.

 

rs.JPG

 

[BikeisLife]

Which lever do you have? The first 2 images are the OK ones. If it's the 3rd one that pushes in it is most probably the problem.

The top one.

[BikeisLife]

Here, in all its 33 page glory.

Thanks!

[Rapunzel]

Louis at Knipe Racing modified my SID so it no longer has the remote lockout - far prefer it as it really isn't an issue to reach down to lock / unlock.

[ChrisF]

Some interesting comments .....

 

On the other end of the spectrum I LOVE the dual lockout on the Scott.  Use it on every ride !!

 

 

FULL travel for when you hit those downhills ...

 

TRACTION (partial lock out) mode for when you are riding hills and want to limit the bobbing ... this WORKS !!!

 

and then when you "ride to the ride", it is VERY handy to do a total lockout and ride an almost rigid bike to the start of the trail.

 

 

When doing trails that change from serious climbs to immediate rutted downhills it is VERY handy to be able to shift on the fly ....

 

 

 

but YES, it certainly is another mechanical maintenance item .... part of the game

[Quagga]

 

That looks all correct. another test you can do it to pull the housing so you get the fork to lock then let go and see if it jumps back

 

Then alo do the same with the cable removed, use an allen key to turn the lockout and let go, that way you can establish if it is something inside the lockout or the lever or cable problem by removing them from the test one at a time

[BikeisLife]

That looks all correct. another test you can do it to pull the housing so you get the fork to lock then let go and see if it jumps back

 

Then alo do the same with the cable removed, use an allen key to turn the lockout and let go, that way you can establish if it is something inside the lockout or the lever or cable problem by removing them from the test one at a time

Suspect it's the housing/cable. Going to put a new one on tonight and then will revert back (hope this is the case).

[droo]

Which lever do you have? The first 2 images are the OK ones. If it's the 3rd one that pushes in it is most probably the problem.

 

That bottom one should be burned at the stake.

[BikeisLife]

 Fitted a brand new cable and housing, the problem persists. 

Works 100% when on the work stand but as soon as you on the bike, it sticks. I guess it being Rockshox's first cable actuated push-to-unlock damper it needs some refinement. 

As soon as you release weight off the front wheel and release the lever it works perfectly.

[droo]

 Fitted a brand new cable and housing, the problem persists. 

 

Works 100% when on the work stand but as soon as you on the bike, it sticks. I guess it being Rockshox's first cable actuated push-to-unlock damper it needs some refinement. 

 

As soon as you release weight off the front wheel and release the lever it works perfectly.

 

Far from it. RS have been making shyte PTU dampers since 2014.

[BikeisLife]

Far from it. RS have been making shyte PTU dampers since 2014.

Then I have no more excuses for them   

 

[Mikeridgwell]

 Fitted a brand new cable and housing, the problem persists. 

 

Works 100% when on the work stand but as soon as you on the bike, it sticks. I guess it being Rockshox's first cable actuated push-to-unlock damper it needs some refinement. 

 

As soon as you release weight off the front wheel and release the lever it works perfectly.

 

So I had almost this exact issue on my 2018/2019 RS Judy. Fork would lock, but wouldn't spring back into Traction control, or descend modes (unless I reached down and pulled the cable by hand - which seemed to work). 

 

In the end, I took it in to where I bought it , and they replaced the whole fork. Said the internal lock-out spring had gone wrong.

 

That fork was never very rigid either. Could always feel lateral movement under heavy braking (on tar especially). The new fork doesn't do that either. Not sure if it's related / helpful - but there you go.