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Friyay: Converting a 29er into a roadie


TyronLab

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Since its Friday, thought I would get bikehub's members all worked up  valued opinion on something I've been toying with.

 

I'm busy with a lot of training on the indoor at the moment, but once I'm whole again (see clavicle thread) I'll be venturing into the wilds of Boksburg once more. Due to my location, the majority of training rides I do are road rides. I don't have much interest in racing on the road, except for the annual 94.7 ride which is for fun, but I do feel sorry for my knobblies doing hour upon hour of tar duty.

 

I thought I would do a total cost of ownership (TCO) calculation based on three options:

  1. Buy a road bike for training.
  2. Get a second set of wheels for my mtb and fit them with slicks (I'm running tubeless, so just switching tyres isn't an option).
  3. Continue to use my mtb tyres everywhere.

I used the following assumptions (which can be changed if I get some more data from you guys):

 

6000km per year total

Road bike R6000

Second set of wheels for mtb R1800

1x Set of MTB and/or road tyres R1100

Road bike tyre life 5000km

MTB tyre life 2500km

 

Interestingly, for a 3 year period, this is the TCO for each option:

 

  1. R9 960
  2. R5 760
  3. R7 920

So, from a purely financial standpoint, getting a second set of wheels is by far the better option.

 

Discuss...

 

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Your mafs are broken...

You have not factored in the cost of replacing your groupset into the equation, and at 6000km per annum, this is at least a yearly additional cost.

That, and things like brake pads. gear cables for the derailleurs, etc. etc. for a true TCO.

Of course, these costs apply across the board to both road and mtb.

But ja, I too have the same issue. I just dropped a NX Eagle on my bike, and my tires also tired, after all the training for Cape Town Wind Tour.

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Your mafs are broken...

 

You have not factored in the cost of replacing your groupset into the equation, and at 6000km per annum, this is at least a yearly additional cost.

 

That, and things like brake pads. gear cables for the derailleurs, etc. etc. for a true TCO.

 

Of course, these costs apply across the board to both road and mtb.

 

But ja, I too have the same issue. I just dropped a NX Eagle on my bike, and my tires also tired, after all the training for Cape Town Wind Tour.

 

100% agreed that I don't have a TCO in the traditional sense of the word, but I made the assumption that maintenance would balance out all of the options. So this is purely what I can expect to pay on tyres for the duration as well as taking the input cost into account. Adding maintenance would have just increased the total cost of all of the options by roughly the same amount.

 

Listing percentages isn't nearly as striking as listing Rand-value.

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100% agreed that I don't have a TCO in the traditional sense of the word, but I made the assumption that maintenance would balance out all of the options. So this is purely what I can expect to pay on tyres for the duration as well as taking the input cost into account. Adding maintenance would have just increased the total cost of all of the options by roughly the same amount.

 

Listing percentages isn't nearly as striking as listing Rand-value.

 

okay, but then I am perplexed by how remaining on knobby tires will leave you out of pocket for almost R8000?

 

How often do you need to put tires on? 

And then, if indeed you are going to spend R8000 on tires by leaving them on, you may as well get the road bike, as you will definitely be spending another couple of grand when you have to replace your cassette, chain rings, etc etc.

 

And as you say, this not taking maintenance costs into the equation.

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100% agreed that I don't have a TCO in the traditional sense of the word, but I made the assumption that maintenance would balance out all of the options. So this is purely what I can expect to pay on tyres for the duration as well as taking the input cost into account. Adding maintenance would have just increased the total cost of all of the options by roughly the same amount.

 

Listing percentages isn't nearly as striking as listing Rand-value.

 

Also check the difference between wear on road vs mtb. I am assuming a cheapo road group set will wear differently (faster, slower?) than your current mtb. The road bike might be worth it if you are replacing components and servicing the cheapo roadbike instead of your mtb.

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Your mafs are broken...

 

You have not factored in the cost of replacing your groupset into the equation, and at 6000km per annum, this is at least a yearly additional cost.

 

That, and things like brake pads. gear cables for the derailleurs, etc. etc. for a true TCO.

 

Of course, these costs apply across the board to both road and mtb.

 

But ja, I too have the same issue. I just dropped a NX Eagle on my bike, and my tires also tired, after all the training for Cape Town Wind Tour.

Replace your groupset every year?
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  1. Get a second set of wheels for my mtb and fit them with slicks (I'm running tubeless, so just switching tyres isn't an option).

 

 

Get yourself a set of FARR DOT Gravel tyres. They are pretty much like a slick and you run them tubeless. At 45c width they won't make your MTB look to silly either. 

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Yus theres some wild maths and facts flying around. How does keeping your current bike with tyres cost that much per year? And why do you replace your groupset every year?? Chains obv, and cassettes (but you can get a looong way with a cassette if you manage your chain swopping properly), but why groupset??

Just get a road bike man, pick up a nice bargain on a used one and you can sell it at a profit even after a few years of having it.

Changing wheelsets every time is missions, and even then its still not a road bike.

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Replace your groupset every year?

 

as groupsets go, 6000km per year will make this something you may need to do, want it or not.

 

Since, unless you fork out a cr@pload of cash for the new AXS, which lasts apparently a gazillion years, you are doomed to replacing it after 3-4000 odd kays (if LBS is to be believed)...

 

in my experience at least.

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