Fork damper (?) assistance

[NotSoBigBen]

Hoping someone can point me in the right direction ...

 

The 'brain' in this fork was faulty and it has been replaced with this 'damper cartridge' ... It isn't working properly either but better than the brain one did.

 

I don't use lockout at all so was wondering what the suggestion would be to replace it with and where I could source it from?

 

TIA

Ben

[David Marshall]

The "isn't working properly" is a bit shotgun.  Maybe get an opinion from a reputable service technician.  Those RS dampers are pretty bomb proof.

[DieselnDust]

It looks like it isn't fitting properly either

[Stevovo]

Contact Andrew at Stoke Suspension. The suspension wizard. Hes on thehub. Droo. Im sure he can help you with advice.

[MrJacques]

I can see it's a SID, but what model & year is it? I have an old 26er SID with a broken arch that could maybe serve as spares.

[droo]

It looks like it isn't fitting properly either

 

Nah, it's just the cable stop that's missing so it looks a bit ropey.

 

Ben, what do you mean by not working? Could be lots of things. If compression damping isn't working it's either the compression damper that's faulty or the oil level is wrong, either due to a leak or it was set wrong initially. If rebound isn't working the rebound damper's shot, and if neither are working you've got an oil leak.

 

Dave Marshall or Jacques at Cogent will be able to help you, but it's a bit of a drive. I don't know anyone in Ve Souf with the necessary skill set. Otherwise I'm as far away as your nearest Postnet.

[NotSoBigBen]

By not working I mean it's almost like sometimes it locks itself out for a short period and then it works fine for a while i.e. unlocked . Very intermittent ...

 

I didn't bother with the cable since I don't use lockout.

 

Droo would you perhaps have something I could replace it with please?

[ABrooks]

Is it not one of those lockouts where you need to have the cable to apply tension to the damper? My Reba was like that so I could not remove the cable otherwise it would remain locked.

[NotSoBigBen]

Is it not one of those lockouts where you need to have the cable to apply tension to the damper? My Reba was like that so I could not remove the cable otherwise it would remain locked.

At first I thought that was the problem but if I do attach a cable and lock it out then it is definitely locked out solid

[DieselnDust]

At first I thought that was the problem but if I do attach a cable and lock it out then it is definitely locked out solid

then it sounds like the mechanism needs to have the cable connected to prevent it floating from open to almost closed.

I don't know this fork very well or which damper you fitted (sounds like a SID RL?) so can't offer something very insightful

[NotSoBigBen]

then it sounds like the mechanism needs to have the cable connected to prevent it floating from open to almost closed.

I don't know this fork very well or which damper you fitted (sounds like a SID RL?) so can't offer something very insightful

Does that help?

[Weimaraner1]

- The oil level is critical and so are the seals.The oil level depends on what fork you have and what year it is.

- Reference the SRAM/RS website for oil volumes but make sure you find the correct model and year!

- The lock out mechanism (not hydraulic) normally has a spring inside that would return it either to the locked or unlocked position. You can take these apart and check and clean but be careful not to break anything or drop the thing.

- Comment below that no tension on a REBA RL means it is locked all the time is correct so you have to have the cable and lever whereby say on a FOX Evolution you can remove the cable and it will stay unlocked. This could differ from fork to fork and I do not have experience will all variants. I suggest you keep the cable and lever on while you are trying to find the fault, make sure the cable has enough pull.

- If you are mechanically minded you can take it out (need a 24mm socket), pour out the oil and see how much is in there.You can put it back together with the correct volume of oil and try again. Remember the lock out mech needs to be in the open position otherwise you will not get it back in. If you really do not know the oil level then get the oil level to sit just above the bottom of the lock out when it is in the stanchion - bit of a trial and error thing but you can get it right after a couple of times. This is not the best way of doing it but a last resort if you do not know the volume.

-Could also be that damper oil is leaking into the bottom of the fork which means the seals are shot

-Key is regular service

[David Marshall]

Get it looked at. There may be a simple answer.  Replacing the damper without identifying the problem could be an expensive option

[droo]

If it's randomly locking out it may mean the spring hasn't been properly preloaded. Does it take a fair amount of force to turn the adjuster to the locked out position?

[Rich990]

If you're in gauteng, take it past cogent industries for a checkup.

[NotSoBigBen]

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions, you guys never disappoint!

 

So to my plan going forward, as some know I like to tinker and have a go at things myself ... What's the worst thing that can happen? If I mess it up I'll have to ride one of my other 1 or 2 bikes [emoji41]

 

Will start with the relative 'easy' check of the oil level this morning. Question ... I'm assuming that I can remove the damper without letting the air out?

 

If I then use something to insert into the stantion from the top and measure the length, subtract the length of the damper and that should be the correct level.

 

Check what it is now and then add or remove as required.

 

How does that approach sound?

 

@Droo - there is quite a bit of effort required to turn it to lock