RobertWhitehead Posted March 31, 2020 Posted March 31, 2020 Nope, but I do sand the rotor surface with a fine piece of sandpaper to try and clear the discoloration on from the previous pad. I suppose one can call it burn marks. This is also a very good way to clear any surface build-up or any other contaminant.In the case of replacing a new rotor with old pads: I would just sand the surface area on the pad to also clear any rough spots and or contaminants giving the rotor and pad a "fresh start". PS: I'm referring to a light sand on the pads, just breaking the surface. Do you replace your rotors when your pads are finished?
Me rida my bicycle Posted March 31, 2020 Posted March 31, 2020 One thing not sure anyone has mentioned it on hear the rear brake mount ties in with the rear axle. Not sure if this will affect the type of adapter you use. I know the normal Spark has 180mm front and rear maybe ask you local dealer for one of those brake mounts.
boesman88 Posted March 31, 2020 Author Posted March 31, 2020 You wont go wrong with the XT's I even run them (normal 2 pot with 180 ice F & R) But here's my next question: How did you install the new rotor after replacing the old? Normally the pads and rotors seed together, i.e. the surface level wears together. The vibration you're currently experiencing may be due to this. My suggestion would be to sand the pads down a bit or replace them. But if you have the cash to spend then definitely go with the XT's, even the normal 2 pot with 180 rotors will suffice. I have done 4 Baviaans races and I've never felt that I was not in control The vibration is much more prominent than what I imagine an incorrect sead would feel like. The contour of the ICE Rotor is such that the pads overlap the outside of the rotor periodically as the uneven outer shape of the rotor moves through the caliper which, when putting force on the lever, causes a bite/no bit situation. See the pic attached.
boesman88 Posted March 31, 2020 Author Posted March 31, 2020 Okay, one last question. I can get 4pot XTs for roughly the same price as 4pot Saints. Would saints be overkill for XC and Trail riding? How does the modulation of xt and saints compare? My old XTs were quite brutal (on/off feeling) whereas the SRAMs Feel a lot more ‘car’ like- the harder you press the more force is applied. How does the Saints compare?
CJ Van Posted April 1, 2020 Posted April 1, 2020 Okay, one last question. I can get 4pot XTs for roughly the same price as 4pot Saints. Would saints be overkill for XC and Trail riding? How does the modulation of xt and saints compare? My old XTs were quite brutal (on/off feeling) whereas the SRAMs Feel a lot more ‘car’ like- the harder you press the more force is applied. How does the Saints compare?The word “Modulation” does not exist in the Shimano universe. If you want modulation and powerful stoppers buy the Cura’s. I have the 2-pod version and they are great. The grease monkey has them on his 18kg Tranny as well and he also weighs north of a 100kg’s, but only until August when he will become vegan for 3 months…. Sorry, got derailed there, back to the stoppers. We run this on our trailbikes and going down the steep stuff in Jonkers and Helderberg and there is def no lack of stopping power. It does sound like you already made up your mind about buying Shimano. If you do go the overkill road and get the Saints, you might have even less modulation with them. They were designed for going downhill on a downhill bike with very grippy rubber on them. This is not scientific, just what I think might happen… If you have a more powerful brake on a lighter bike, less speed and less steep terrain and fast rolling tyres you might find that it will lock up the wheel to quick. Now skids are all fun and we all like to lock up the back wheel, but I am yet to experience a fun skid if my front wheel locks up. Again, I am not sure it this will happen but my experience with XT brakes is that there is little modulation and there is a fine line between no brake and fully engaged stopping power. If someone does have experience with Saint brakes on a XC bike I would like to know what they thought of the setup.
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted April 1, 2020 Posted April 1, 2020 https://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/shimano-zee-brakeset R3k and arguably the best deal you'll get on a set of stoppers. The Zees also seem to have a bit more modulation than normal shimano stoppers, according to reviews.
babse Posted April 1, 2020 Posted April 1, 2020 https://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/shimano-zee-brakeset R3k and arguably the best deal you'll get on a set of stoppers. The Zees also seem to have a bit more modulation than normal shimano stoppers, according to reviews. buy, fit and close this fred.
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted April 1, 2020 Posted April 1, 2020 buy, fit and close this fred.Yep. At that price, all day.
DieselnDust Posted April 1, 2020 Posted April 1, 2020 Does anyone know what the larger diameter brake rotors are that can be fitted to a Scott RC 900 alu frame? Of where I can find out? Standard size is 160/180 rear and front. appreciate it What fork is fitted to the bike as this will limit your brake rotor size before other limitations kick in
RiverInTheRoad Posted April 1, 2020 Posted April 1, 2020 Buy the Shimano Zee brakeset from cwcycles.com. R3k is a moerse bargain. Those brakes suit a big guy. Strong brakes are one of the nicest upgrades you can do.
Rigardt@Scott Posted April 1, 2020 Posted April 1, 2020 Like CJVan said, I also run 2 pot Curas. They are brilliant. I weigh 105kg, and my bike about 16kg - I go down some pretty steep stuff at a pretty decent pace and it stops me just fine. The modulation and power is really brilliant. Lever feel is nice and smooth, and it doesn't need to be bled often. If I compare this to the Shimano XT M8000 brakes on my other bike - they are shyte. There is no modulation, I have to bleed them very often, and the power does not even begin to compare to that of the Curas. And this is on a bike that I ride considerably slower than the bike that has Curas. Formula Curas are hands down the best brakes you can buy in the workers class price range. I run them with metalic pads and Shimano Ice Tech rotors, 203mm up front and 180mm out back - but that is on a 160mm travel enduro bike and is probably overkill for an XC bike - 180/180 or 180/160 should do the trick. I would not buy Shimano Saints for the reasons CJVan already covered. It's a downhill brake - why put that on an XC bike? Buy a brake that makes sense for the bike, and IMO that is the Cura. PS, over the last couple of years I have owned Shimano Deore, SLX, XT, Sram Guides, and the Curas. The Curas are in a class of their own. I'm a fanboy as you can tell. The only other brakes I would want at this stage are the new Hayes Dominion 4 Pot brakes - but they are a price class up, and again, overkill for an XC bike.
solty Posted April 1, 2020 Posted April 1, 2020 What is brake pad availability and pricing for the Curas?
Rigardt@Scott Posted April 2, 2020 Posted April 2, 2020 What is brake pad availability and pricing for the Curas?Availability good. You can get originals for R300 per brake. You can get aftermarkets like Quaxar for around R200 a brake. The originals have an impressive lifetime compared to the aftermarkets I have used.
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