Butterbean Posted September 19, 2020 Share Assuming all bikes suspensions are tuned well, then lockouts basically used predominantly for road use on way to the trailsWhen I was new to riding I used lockouts all the time. I thought it was just the right thing to do. But then I stopped. I don't really know why. But tar, climbs, jeep track, whatever, I want full squish. It's just better. If you're out the saddle climbing, the right gear and smooth pedaling will avoid that major Bob. And like someone else said, locked out on tar, a dual sus feels super weird... Plus who wants to worry about getting to a part of a trail and not knowing if you're in the right position, looking at your shock or whatever, or even worse, getting to the bottom of a hectic section and the lockouts weren't disengaged. Just ride it, you'll like it. MajG 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajG Posted September 19, 2020 Share When I was new to riding I used lockouts all the time. I thought it was just the right thing to do. But then I stopped. I don't really know why. But tar, climbs, jeep track, whatever, I want full squish. It's just better. If you're out the saddle climbing, the right gear and smooth pedaling will avoid that major Bob. And like someone else said, locked out on tar, a dual sus feels super weird... Plus who wants to worry about getting to a part of a trail and not knowing if you're in the right position, looking at your shock or whatever, or even worse, getting to the bottom of a hectic section and the lockouts weren't disengaged. Just ride it, you'll like it.Good point you made as i never really used the lockout on my hardtail, not even on tar.lol. So i will just live with extra money in my pocket rather than splash on lockout shock, can fit bigger rear brakes boxerulez 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxerulez Posted September 19, 2020 Share Good point you made as i never really used the lockout on my hardtail, not even on tar.lol. So i will just live with extra money in my pocket rather than splash on lockout shock, can fit bigger rear brakesThe front is begging to be 203 if your fork allows it. No matter what spacer I got still needed to shim a few washers in there to space it out. Then move the 180 to the back. Cycles United had rt66 203 rotors for 300 bucks. MajG 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jewbacca Posted September 19, 2020 Share I used to swear by big rotors. Now I run a 180/160 on both my mountain bikes and they stop me just fine. 203 is overkill unless you are heavy. Then I suppose the heat dissipation from the brakes having to work harder will help. I have Fox CTD dampers on one of my bikes front and rear. I tend to switch between the 'Trail' setting and 'Descend' setting but seldom use the full lockout. My other bike has a Fox push tuned rear shock which does the same duty as above while the revelation stays open the entire time. I have a fair few tokens in the fork so it ramps up through the travel and stops the fork from 'diving'. I am 75kg but the tokens in the fork works better and better the heavier you are. I still use all my travel on every ride, I just don't get that wallowy feeling or dive, which I imagine one gets more often when heavy. The cool thing about tokens is that the small bump sensitivity remains plush so you get heaps of grip and don't have to pump the fork up to pogo stick pressures to stop it bottoming out. Anyway, this post probably belongs on another thread. Sorry MajG 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxerulez Posted September 19, 2020 Share I used to swear by big rotors. Now I run a 180/160 on both my mountain bikes and they stop me just fine. 203 is overkill unless you are heavy. Then I suppose the heat dissipation from the brakes having to work harder will help. I have Fox CTD dampers on one of my bikes front and rear. I tend to switch between the 'Trail' setting and 'Descend' setting but seldom use the full lockout. My other bike has a Fox push tuned rear shock which does the same duty as above while the revelation stays open the entire time. I have a fair few tokens in the fork so it ramps up through the travel and stops the fork from 'diving'. I am 75kg but the tokens in the fork works better and better the heavier you are. I still use all my travel on every ride, I just don't get that wallowy feeling or dive, which I imagine one gets more often when heavy. The cool thing about tokens is that the small bump sensitivity remains plush so you get heaps of grip and don't have to pump the fork up to pogo stick pressures to stop it bottoming out. Anyway, this post probably belongs on another thread. SorryI am quite heavy but the 180/160 combo on my hardtail is sufficient, it did not hold up on the Norco though. Not sure if the FS1 he ended up getting has much better brakes, looked like basic shimano on there, step up form tektro on the fs3 probably, but with the extra weight and the fat wheels the 203mm does well. Managed to get them working with the tektro units, with a lot more condifence. Jewbacca 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DR ◣◢ Posted September 19, 2020 Share Also on 203/180 combo. Even if I was lighter (85kg) I would still run it. I like my brakes to feel like blocks of wood with a quick on and off to scrub off speed. I don’t like dragging brakes unless it is for super steep stuff. Pieter1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajG Posted September 19, 2020 Share I used to swear by big rotors. Now I run a 180/160 on both my mountain bikes and they stop me just fine. 203 is overkill unless you are heavy. Then I suppose the heat dissipation from the brakes having to work harder will help. I have Fox CTD dampers on one of my bikes front and rear. I tend to switch between the 'Trail' setting and 'Descend' setting but seldom use the full lockout. My other bike has a Fox push tuned rear shock which does the same duty as above while the revelation stays open the entire time. I have a fair few tokens in the fork so it ramps up through the travel and stops the fork from 'diving'. I am 75kg but the tokens in the fork works better and better the heavier you are. I still use all my travel on every ride, I just don't get that wallowy feeling or dive, which I imagine one gets more often when heavy. The cool thing about tokens is that the small bump sensitivity remains plush so you get heaps of grip and don't have to pump the fork up to pogo stick pressures to stop it bottoming out. Anyway, this post probably belongs on another thread. SorryLots of my research suggest that need bigger rear brakes or maybe just upgrade the pads. Once i test it out i will review if needed, im 77kg so lets see how it does.I do want solid brakes though without that brake fade i experienced on my hardtail rockhopper. As for tokens, no idea what they are or used for lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajG Posted September 19, 2020 Share I am quite heavy but the 180/160 combo on my hardtail is sufficient, it did not hold up on the Norco though. Not sure if the FS1 he ended up getting has much better brakes, looked like basic shimano on there, step up form tektro on the fs3 probably, but with the extra weight and the fat wheels the 203mm does well. Managed to get them working with the tektro units, with a lot more condifence.How is your bike going though? Happy with it? Pics man , pics boxerulez 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxerulez Posted September 19, 2020 Share How is your bike going though? Happy with it? Pics man , picsThat's it. Going very well. Got another escape so I've fitted the original tyres back on with no tubes. Haven't ridden it since the tyres were sorted though. Will next weekend hopefully. MajG 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajG Posted September 19, 2020 Share The front is begging to be 203 if your fork allows it.No matter what spacer I got still needed to shim a few washers in there to space it out. Then move the 180 to the back.Cycles United had rt66 203 rotors for 300 bucks.Did you just straight swop out (besides for the washes)the rotors and new bigger pads too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxerulez Posted September 19, 2020 Share Did you just straight swop out (besides for the washes)the rotors and new bigger pads too?Nope just rotor. Uses the same pad. The calipers can only take one size. I was thinking of getting 4pot brakes from Evo but the tektro ones came to the party since bedding in on the new discs. MajG 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajG Posted September 19, 2020 Share That's it.Going very well. Got another escape so I've fitted the original tyres back on with no tubes.Haven't ridden it since the tyres were sorted though. Will next weekend hopefully.Looking good man, hows the thicker tyres? Very grippy. Folks seems to say get narrower rear tyres helps alot and keep the thicker infront. You used cable ties for your chain stay rubbers?Check this linkhttps://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/88646-diy-chainstay-protector/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxerulez Posted September 19, 2020 Share Looking good man, hows the thicker tyres? Very grippy. Folks seems to say get narrower rear tyres helps alot and keep the thicker infront. You used cable ties for your chain stay rubbers?Check this linkhttps://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/88646-diy-chainstay-protector/Yes old tube and cable ties. Also cut up the tyre that I ruined and tied it to the frame below BB. I had the 2.6 on the rear since I got the bike and there is no issues. Swapped to a 2.4 icon for a few days until my extra set of Goodyear 2.6 arrived. The tyres are very rounded due to the rim and tyre combination so you have the rolling resistance of a 2.2 tyre really and just more grip down the sidewalls for cornering. MajG 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajG Posted September 19, 2020 Share Yes old tube and cable ties. Also cut up the tyre that I ruined and tied it to the frame below BB. I had the 2.6 on the rear since I got the bike and there is no issues. Swapped to a 2.4 icon for a few days until my extra set of Goodyear 2.6 arrived. The tyres are very rounded due to the rim and tyre combination so you have the rolling resistance of a 2.2 tyre really and just more grip down the sidewalls for cornering.So you didnt enjoy the narrower tyre? Im going to do same with old tube and wrap it for chain slap protection Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted September 19, 2020 Share When I was new to riding I used lockouts all the time. I thought it was just the right thing to do. But then I stopped. I don't really know why. But tar, climbs, jeep track, whatever, I want full squish. It's just better. If you're out the saddle climbing, the right gear and smooth pedaling will avoid that major Bob. And like someone else said, locked out on tar, a dual sus feels super weird... Plus who wants to worry about getting to a part of a trail and not knowing if you're in the right position, looking at your shock or whatever, or even worse, getting to the bottom of a hectic section and the lockouts weren't disengaged. Just ride it, you'll like it.Major Bob would be a great hub username. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DR ◣◢ Posted September 19, 2020 Share Major Bob would be a great hub username.I’m not changing mine again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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