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Posted (edited)

Hubbers,

 

Anyone that can recommend a good universal bleeding kit.( Oil & Dot )

I have a Shimano kit, but now looking for something that will do SRAM / AVID , MAGURA.

 

Oh and most critical, where can one then get this. Been on most online shops , no one has kits.

Evo has one advertised, but looks like cheap plastic syringes. ( or are they ok ? )

 

Willing to buy a used kit as well.

Edited by RomP
Posted

Hubbers,

 

Anyone that can recommend a good universal bleeding kit.( Oil & Dot )

I have a Shimano kit, but now looking for something that will do SRAM / AVID , MAGURA.

 

Oh and most critical, where can one then get this. Been on most online shops , no one has kits.

Evo has one advertised, but looks like cheap plastic syringes. ( or are they ok ? )

 

Willing to buy a used kit as well.

i hope it comes with instructions

 

I've seen guys at shops do it doesn't look easy

 

if it was me ill have lots of fluid on floor

Posted (edited)

Even the Park Tool bleed kits use plastic syringes. I had the same challenge and then decided to make my own. Basically I copied the dimensions of the bleed screw on the one end of the fitting and provided an adapter/protrusion for the plastic pipe on the other end. And obviously center drilled the fitting.

 

The cost was minimal and it works really well. I used two solid brass wall plug pins I kept for “one day”, syringes from Dischem and some plastic pipe I had lying around. I could bleed the avid brakes on my bike perfectly.

 

I was surprised to see how strongly the plastic pipe attaches to the fitting as is. I still need to find clamps to close the pipes off and am looking for something suitable, but actually found that I did not need them. I am sure I will stumble across something as one would be less likely to spill brake fluid on the bike parts. Brake fluid and paint don’t play well.

 

Unfortunately I am not quite finished restoring my lathe but hope to get the balance of the work from the engineering shop this week still. I would also need to get some brass stock as I do not have any more plug pins lying around but I would be happy to make a set for you.

 

Another point is that they use viton seals with the systems that use brake fluid which breaks down if contaminated by mineral oil/petroleum distillates so it would be highly advisable not to use the same set for both. Unless you have some way to really degrease the set. Proper wash in methylated spirits maybe.

 

The fitting with the longer thread screws into the caliper.

post-35118-0-08486100-1612453460_thumb.jpeg

post-35118-0-82745300-1612453483_thumb.jpeg

Edited by Mars1967
Posted (edited)

Sadly not. I simply copied the dimensions from the bleed screws with a micrometer. The other end was done on the TLAR principle. (That looks about right) I’ll measure the dimensions and post them.

Edited by Mars1967
Posted

Think they are M5, just need to work out the pitch. I used to use irrigation hose barbs when I was running Avids years back, but want to make some proper ones.

 

Turned a bleeding tool for a none stealth Reverb dropper the other day.

Posted (edited)

Yes correct. It is a 5mm thread with a 0.8 pitch.

 

The thread portion is 7mm long on the caliper side and 5mm on the brake lever side.

 

The size of the "screw head" portion is 6.5mm in diameter and the depth of the head is 2.5mm but it would probably be better at 3mm long.

 

On the other end the pipe fitting has a diameter of 4.2mm and is 10 mm long. I left a rough cut finish for the pipe to grip on and it works perfectly.  I really pushed the syringe very hard to see if the pipe would jump off before bleeding the brakes as I did not want to get brake fluid all over the frame. It can easily handle the pressure required to push the brake fluid up from the rear caliper to the lever.

 

The O-ring has an inside diameter of 3mm and a wall thickness of 1.75mm.

 

The pipe is the common type that you get at pet shops and Builders and has an internal diameter of about 2.9 - 3 mm. I suspect it is polyethylene.

 

I hope this is clear enough in the absence of a drawing.

Edited by Mars1967
Posted

Yes correct. It is a 5mm thread with a 0.8 pitch.

 

The thread portion is 7mm long on the caliper side and 5mm on the brake lever side.

 

The size of the "screw head" portion is 6.5mm in diameter and the depth of the head is 2.5mm but it would probably be better at 3mm long.

 

On the other end the pipe fitting has a diameter of 4.2mm and is 10 mm long. I left a rough cut finish for the pipe to grip on and it works perfectly.  I really pushed the syringe very hard to see if the pipe would jump off before bleeding the brakes as I did not want to get brake fluid all over the frame. It can easily handle the pressure required to push the brake fluid up from the rear caliper to the lever.

 

The O-ring has an inside diameter of 3mm and a wall thickness of 1.75mm.

 

The pipe is the common type that you get at pet shops and Builders and has an internal diameter of about 2.9 - 3 mm. I suspect it is polyethylene.

 

I hope this is clear enough in the absence of a drawing.

Brilliant thanks!

Posted

Thanks Guys, i don't have a Lathe but whoever manages to make another set, Ill be the first one to order a set of the brass connectors.

Posted

Thanks Guys, i don't have a Lathe but whoever manages to make another set, Ill be the first one to order a set of the brass connectors.

 

OK as soon as I get my lathe parts, and as promised before, I will make you a set. Free and for mahala.

 

It should be soon but like the engineering shop owner said "There are three factors - speed, quality and cost saving- choose two." I chose quality and cost saving.

 

I will make a V2 with knurling and everything. (or try at least)

  • 6 months later...
Posted

So I eventually managed to get my lathe sorted out. I had to wait for parts and there was unfortunately no alternative. I made two sets. One for RomP and one for JustMe. Chris (Just Me) says he bought the Marvel Universal kit at CycleLabs and does not need it anymore. I am happy to give it to the whomever may need it. What you see in the photo's I posted above, is what you get - just slightly improved and using better pipe.

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