Ox_Wagon Posted July 7, 2008 Share In my scavaging I got hold of a cheap set of disc wheels that are already fitted with a tubeless strip. I wasn?t planning on going that route but would not mind experimenting with it if I can do it with out breaking the bank. <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> I currently have a set of wire beaded <?: prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" />Conti Mountain kings and normal foldable Small Block 8. Would it be possible to run these tubeless with out ?too much? risk or must I get special tubeless tires with their thicker side walls. What tires would you recommend while keeping cost in mind? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtrider Posted July 7, 2008 Share Those tyres will work just fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canaris Posted July 7, 2008 Share Ox put the small block on the front only, the small block as a vulnerable sidewall, and needs constant supervision, put it where you can see where it is going. Expect a little "sweat" beads through the side walls initially as the sealant does its work. After that it is all fun. Also remember to be generous with the slime/ sludge ext on the first installment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tromps Posted July 7, 2008 Share You can use those tyres just fine. Just get the proper sulotion of choice. IE Stans, Joe's... Fit the tyre, insert the solution, inflate to about 3.5 to 4 bar (if you are brave enough) and let the tyres stand over night so as to allow for propper sealing. In the morning, deflate to about 2.5 and bob's your unle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jules Posted July 7, 2008 Share There have been several posts here to the effect that normal tyres work fine without tubes. If this is the case, I'd like to know why the tubeless specific tyres are so damn expensive? Is it really a scam, or do we just have to wait for tubeless to come out in cheaper tyres? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtrider Posted July 7, 2008 Share A tip Never add sealant to your tyres with your first attempt at inflating the tyre . You should be able to inflate the tyre without any sealant in and let it seat first . I.E push it to about 4bars . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtrider Posted July 7, 2008 Share He has a tubeless rim set , he will only need the sealant and not the complete kit . Get some Tubeless Valves . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted July 7, 2008 Share There have been several posts here to the effect that normal tyres work fine without tubes. If this is the case' date=' I'd like to know why the tubeless specific tyres are so damn expensive? Is it really a scam, or do we just have to wait for tubeless to come out in cheaper tyres? [/quote'] I agree with the 'any tyres' can be converted to tubeless but IMHO the real tubeless tyres have stronger sidewalls. This of course doesn't mean you won't get a sidewall cut (had one on a Vredestein Killer Bee recently!). So I guess if you using non-tubeless tyres as tubeless you just have to be a little more cautious .......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonW Posted July 7, 2008 Share From experience the foldable SB 8 is a bit of a saga to seal until you have ridden it a couple of times. Once you have inflated the wheel and shaken it vigorously you must lie it flat (on top of a bucket works great) and rotate it a few times. Best though is to do a long ride as soon as you have inflated. The conti's work fine, but do have weak sidewalls. I would not put a SB 8 on the front - handling will be terrible! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canaris Posted July 7, 2008 Share JUles not tubeless tyres are not "Sealed", so in the initial set up there is a degree of sealant that is commited to seal the non tubeless tyres. Also on a more speculative note, tubeless tyres have a stronger side wall (which is the vulnerability of going tubeless) and tubeless may or may not be designed to run at lower pressutre than their tubed cousins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tromps Posted July 7, 2008 Share There have been several posts here to the effect that normal tyres work fine without tubes. If this is the case' date=' I'd like to know why the tubeless specific tyres are so damn expensive? Is it really a scam, or do we just have to wait for tubeless to come out in cheaper tyres? [/quote'] Tubeless tyres have a stronger sidewall and also fit's "tighter" on to the rim compared to non tubeless tyres. The UST (Universal Sidewall Technology) is able of taking more strain and punishment compared to the non. Problem is this, if you run the non at the wrong pressure or it is not sealed or seated on the tyre right, they could jump off the rim (Burp) and cause the rider serious injury. That's why running them is not advised, as they are designed to hold a tube which forces the tyre in place on the rim. UST Tyres are designed to stay on the rim with out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtrider Posted July 7, 2008 Share Sorry Trops but BS !! I been riding these conversions on any possible MTB rim and tyre combination you can think of for years and even though I have had a few burps going sideways down a 45% cement drain I have never had any other failures that could lead to my sudden demise ! The price difference is just not worth it and I can buy two sets of normal tyres for one set of UST . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNOSE_E Posted July 7, 2008 Share DR - So I could use a 2.3 Tioga Yellow Kirin Magnum 66 tyre for tubeless? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtrider Posted July 7, 2008 Share Hell why not , 2.3 is nice and fat . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtbreath Posted July 7, 2008 Share Remember to use a compressor for your first inflation or you will be pulling your hair out of frustration. Alternatively take the valve core out to get a propert "seat". Soapy water is handy too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT1 Posted July 7, 2008 Share Remember to use a compressor for your first inflation or you will be pulling your hair out of frustration. Alternatively take the valve core out to get a propert "seat". Soapy water is handy too. I take it this is a dirty job then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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