Wheel-jig issues.

[David Dore]

Hi.

 

Has anyone else had problems with the Park Tool wheel-jig constantly drifting out of calibration whilst building?

Have used several of these machines and it seems very hit-and -miss as to whether a good reliable one is achievable.

Have taken the jig down to the local machine-shop, they were less than impressed with the poor fit/quality of the moving threads and charged a large percentage of the original total cost in order for improvement.

This has made a difference but far from eradicated the problem.

Have even made an upscale version of the Park calibration tool to a general mtb rear hub dimension coupled with a 35mm ‘rim’ as changing between road-wheels and mtb further upsets the machine.

All/any replies would be appreciated.

Cheers

dd

 

 

[David Marshall]

I have the TS2.2 stand and I have never bothered to calibrate mine because I only work with one arm at a time so having the stand calibrated is not necessary. I just put something under the arm not being used to keep it clear of the rim. 

I also build the wheel biased to the "tight" side and then dish at the end towards the loose side   This saves your arm as you are working with spokes at a lower tension.

[droo]

Using the stand as a dishing tool only works on the P&K Lie stands. On any other stand you'll need a dish stick to get it perfect.

 

Park make mass market bike tools, not precision ones.

[David Dore]

Thanks for the replies.

 

I find building as best to dish saves time as otherwise am constantly removing wheel to check.

 

The frustration is that the act of removing the wheel to check dish then alters calibration upon re-installment, thus wasting more time trying to gauge which way and by how much to compensate in order to get alignment.

 

I also build to the high-tension side then drag the rim across…..

 

Have now purchased a DTS jig which is slower to set up, but is much more solid, and gives reliable repeatable results.

Agree with the comments about mass production- must admit I like quality and think that also  reflects in work undertaken. 🙂

 

 

 

[David Marshall]

Problem solved! Just take out a second bond.  True laterally, radially and dish at the same time.  One thing about the P&K Lie is that the gauges are too sensitive for you to spin the wheel fast so I tend to build on the Park Tool until I stress relieve the wheel and then move it over to the P&K Lie.

[BaGearA]

21 minutes ago, David Marshall said:

Problem solved! Just take out a second bond.  True laterally, radially and dish at the same time.  One thing about the P&K Lie is that the gauges are too sensitive for you to spin the wheel fast so I tend to build on the Park Tool until I stress relieve the wheel and then move it over to the P&K Lie.

that's so beautiful i want to throw up 

[ChrisF]

23 minutes ago, David Marshall said:

Problem solved! Just take out a second bond.  True laterally, radially and dish at the same time.  One thing about the P&K Lie is that the gauges are too sensitive for you to spin the wheel fast so I tend to build on the Park Tool until I stress relieve the wheel and then move it over to the P&K Lie.

 

This is one nice setup 👍👍

 

I have a home.made jig to check rims and for minor truing ....

 

Simply a different set of skills and tools for proper wheel building.  For the typical DIY enthusiast this is one of those jobs best left to the specialists 👍