Rear brake shudder MTB

[Sloth1987]

After reading through old posts, none of them provide a solution for my problem with my Silverback MTB

Just to clarify I have already done the following:

Replaced pads twice.

Changed rotors 3 times and they run perfectly true

Changed caliper twice

Caliper is aligned in the centre of the disc.

Brakes are bled properly

No pad rub/drag

Proper bed in procedure followed

The rear of the bike vibrates and sounds like a horn when applying brakes at any speed.

Out of solutions. Is it possibly a frame issue?

 

 

 

[droo]

Is it the steel hardtail? If so I've seen a few with this issue, chat to Silverback and see what they say.

[Meezo]

I had the same or similar mine was only at very low speed and high brake power so steeps basically, ended up facing the frame and brake adaptor a bit... both on my commencal meta am ht (now stolen) and on my ns bikes eccentric steel ht...

It's worked on both... It may be a little tolerance that's not right I'd also suggest asking a mate if you can swop the entire brake... 

[Martin PJ]

I recently had the same issue on my hardtail rear brake. In the end changed the rotor and it went away. It was really bad.

You need to change something at the back. Maybe try put an adapter with a 180mm rotor. Or change the rear brake totally. I think it is a coincidence that all the components combine in they dampen (or in this case do not dampen) vibration feedback and you see this problem.

[Newbie321]

It's the reason I will never buy silverback again...

 

I've had 3 Solo 1 frames that have this problem to varying degrees. Just gave up at some point and learned to live with it and took the frame that had the least issues.

[Sloth1987]

57 minutes ago, Newbie321 said:

It's the reason I will never buy silverback again...

 

I've had 3 Solo 1 frames that have this problem to varying degrees. Just gave up at some point and learned to live with it and took the frame that had the least issues.

Ah, thanks for confirming my suspicions. I thought as much. I can't live with it unfortunately I cannot live with it as the brake is useless like this. They will have to honour their lifetime warranty

[Newbie321]

12 minutes ago, Sloth1987 said:

Ah, thanks for confirming my suspicions. I thought as much. I can't live with it unfortunately I cannot live with it as the brake is useless like this. They will have to honour their lifetime warranty

Went down this route, impatients got the better of me after the 3'rd frame and months of 'waiting on suppliers'

Edited April 25, 2023 by Newbie321

[madmarc]

8 minutes ago, Sloth1987 said:

Ah, thanks for confirming my suspicions. I thought as much. I can't live with it unfortunately I cannot live with it as the brake is useless like this. They will have to honour their lifetime warranty

Don't laugh at me, because i read this somewhere on the WWW with a similar problem which had a simple fix

Where the rear brake hyd cable touches the frame wrap it with some rubber tape to insulate it against the frame - according to this clever guy it worked and the theory was that the sound is resonance from the brake system traveling into the frame which can also travel from the brake line into the frame.

I never tried it, but hey its a simple hack and if it works then problem solved.

On another note - Did you try different brake pad material ? 

[Sloth1987]

Thanks will try anything. Yes I have used both resin and sintered pads.

[117]

Meezo, I think, has the better solution above.

Face the frame posts a little, maybe give it a gentle file with an emery board or (not so coarse) file to ensure the face is flush with the caliper mounting faces - also remove any paint residue/powder coating on the caliper faces/frame faces to ensure a cleaner mate of the two surfaces. Dont take too much off as it'll change the angle of the caliper to the rotation of the disc. Also, put a little drop of thread lock on the caliper bolts, and torque to correct spec

 

 

[dasilvarsa]

Try to borrow a Wheel.

[Sloth1987]

Thanks. If warranty claim fails, I will try that.

[Sloth1987]

Have two wheels. Same problem

[dasilvarsa]

26 minutes ago, Sloth1987 said:

Have two wheels. Same problem

Do You make the Wheel Tight ?

Must be Tight

 

[droo]

2 hours ago, 117 said:

Meezo, I think, has the better solution above.

Face the frame posts a little, maybe give it a gentle file with an emery board or (not so coarse) file to ensure the face is flush with the caliper mounting faces - also remove any paint residue/powder coating on the caliper faces/frame faces to ensure a cleaner mate of the two surfaces. Dont take too much off as it'll change the angle of the caliper to the rotation of the disc. Also, put a little drop of thread lock on the caliper bolts, and torque to correct spec

 

 

I did this to the offending frames, no difference. Worth a shot though, since it's way cheaper than rebuilding a bike.

[Ruben101]

5 hours ago, Sloth1987 said:

After reading through old posts, none of them provide a solution for my problem with my Silverback MTB

Just to clarify I have already done the following:

Replaced pads twice.

Changed rotors 3 times and they run perfectly true

Changed caliper twice

Caliper is aligned in the centre of the disc.

Brakes are bled properly

No pad rub/drag

Proper bed in procedure followed

The rear of the bike vibrates and sounds like a horn when applying brakes at any speed.

Out of solutions. Is it possibly a frame issue?

 

 

 

Is it perhaps the sola 1 2020 that you are talking about?