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I popped sealant in a set of inner tubes in say Oct 2022. I've ridden my bike a bunch without a hint of an issue, but now is my first race in ages and don't want a flat. 

Is the sealant pap by now? Sludge road sealant (yellow stuff with the Rhino). 

If it ain't broke, don't fix it kinda thinking, means I don't want to take my tyres off and change tubes for the sake of it. Can I just squirt some more in or am I basically running concrete now?

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https://forum.bikehub.co.za/topic/195628-longevity-of-tube-sealant/
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16 hours ago, RossTopher said:

I popped sealant in a set of inner tubes in say Oct 2022. I've ridden my bike a bunch without a hint of an issue, but now is my first race in ages and don't want a flat. 

Is the sealant pap by now? Sludge road sealant (yellow stuff with the Rhino). 

If it ain't broke, don't fix it kinda thinking, means I don't want to take my tyres off and change tubes for the sake of it. Can I just squirt some more in or am I basically running concrete now?

 

I have been using the Rhino pic Sludge since 2016.

 

It has given us some VERY service !

 

After 18 months, expect to see no more that "milky water" in the tyre.  The active sealant has long since formed a layer inside the tyre.  NO PROTECTION if you ride over a thorn now.

 

Easiest solution - such out that milky-water through the valve.  

 

YES, it is possible to remove the tyre and clean off the balls ....  NOT 48 hours before the race .... unless you are 100% sure you have everything to redo the tubeless setup, if anything goes wrong with the removal of the tyre.  VERY easy to move the layer of tape .....

 

 

Then add your 50 to 100 ml of Sludge and you are ready for the race.

 

 

 

 

PS - Sludge is become expensve, and less and less stores stock it.  I have switched most of my bikes over to Enduroseal.

9 minutes ago, ChrisF said:

 

I have been using the Rhino pic Sludge since 2016.

 

It has given us some VERY service !

 

After 18 months, expect to see no more that "milky water" in the tyre.  The active sealant has long since formed a layer inside the tyre.  NO PROTECTION if you ride over a thorn now.

 

Easiest solution - such out that milky-water through the valve.  

 

YES, it is possible to remove the tyre and clean off the balls ....  NOT 48 hours before the race .... unless you are 100% sure you have everything to redo the tubeless setup, if anything goes wrong with the removal of the tyre.  VERY easy to move the layer of tape .....

 

 

Then add your 50 to 100 ml of Sludge and you are ready for the race.

 

 

 

 

PS - Sludge is become expensve, and less and less stores stock it.  I have switched most of my bikes over to Enduroseal.

thanks Chris,

Yip, i only use the Sludge in my road bike with Tubes.

Tubeless setup with Enduroseal on the others - perfect setup.

I think i am going to take the front off today, feel if the tube is all lumpy now and replace.

i dont want to risk sitting roadside on Sat doing a change.

Really depends on what product you use or intend using. Most are primarily a combination of latex and glycol plus some form of filler to assist in blocking the hole. Rule of thumb, the higher the latex % the quicker it will seal, but also the quicker the sealant will dry out. E.g. a "race" sealant will seal quicker but also dry out quicker.

 

Josh Poertner from Silca suggest you do a basic shake test, if you can hear it sloshing inside it is probably still fine, if you cannot you need to add/replace.

1 hour ago, RossTopher said:

thanks Chris,

Yip, i only use the Sludge in my road bike with Tubes.

Tubeless setup with Enduroseal on the others - perfect setup.

I think i am going to take the front off today, feel if the tube is all lumpy now and replace.

i dont want to risk sitting roadside on Sat doing a change.

 

The thing that got me going on the switch from Sludge to Enduroseal was the gravel bike tyres.

 

Or should I say the higher pressures of the gravel tyres.

 

The Sludge would seal it, eventually .... after spraying out a LOT of Sludge.

 

Enduroseal seems to cope much better at these higher pressures.

23 hours ago, RossTopher said:

Thanks all. Question was specifically about sealant in Butyl inner tubes.

I.e. 25mm tyres on narrow non-tubeless rims. 

Bit the bullet, put in a fresh tube and added sealant. Quick quick

Can I ask a personal question. Are these ordinary road tube that you’re shoving sealant into? Or are they special tubes designed to accommodate sealant? Also,  what sealant are using, and how much do you put in? And, lastly, does this regime actually prevent flatting if you traverse a shard of glass.? Well, that is actually more than one personal question?

It’s amazing how most of you folks keep talking about tubeless sealant, even though the OP more than once said that he’s talking about sealant inside tubes.

Two very different setups.

I can’t recall a sludge filled tube ever actually stopping a puncture, to be honest… Used it for years and got punctures at the same rate, until tubeless became a thing.

6 hours ago, LazyTrailRider said:

It’s amazing how most of you folks keep talking about tubeless sealant, even though the OP more than once said that he’s talking about sealant inside tubes.

Two very different setups.

I can’t recall a sludge filled tube ever actually stopping a puncture, to be honest… Used it for years and got punctures at the same rate, until tubeless became a thing.

Lazy by name, not by nature! Thanks for articulating my question. I was trying to find the energy to respond with the same info again. 

Ive had good luck with Sludge over the years, it's just HELLUVA messy if  you do get an unsealable. 

I changed both out in the week, a bit of a waste of good tubes, but hey. Decided to do a little test, Enduroseal in the front and Sludge at the back. All went smooth today

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