Converting MTB from Cup-and-Cone ball bearings, to sealed bearings

[madporra]

Hi all, new to the forum. 

First, not sure if there's already a recent discussion on this. If yes, pls post the link.

Second, I'm a "SIMPLE CYCLIST". I don't do races, not a "Vinnige Fanie", I'm not one for all the bells and whistles. I'm just a guy who likes to go for a ride now and again, who doesn;t want the "best of the best", I just need something functional, with a decent lifespan.

Issue: Having to change my ball bearings on front wheel more often. No sign of dust seal. No 22mm cone spanner to tighten unit

I have a Titan Drone Dash 29'er MTB, bought used about a year ago - details I have are below. It has a BOOST fork, Fusion-X RC32 (110mm)
It has ball bearings (they call it "cup and cone"?). I have re-done the bearings once or twice, but recently I had to do it more often.
Main reasons are:
 - I noticed no dust cover (don't think it came with one).
 - I don't have the proper thin 22mm cone spanner so that I can tighten the two nuts on the hub/cone/Thru-axle "thing" (whatever that piece is called). Meaning, I suspect that dust is getting into the bearings, as it only lasts about 300-500km before I need to replace again. I'm sure the sand is slowly messing up the bearing cones too.
I was told by a bike mechanic that many bikes came out with these standard hubs, but I can't recall what the name of the hub was.
The Titan agents don't seem to have the seal kit (huh?!), so they suggested I get a new hub (ka-ching $$$ ??)

I want to possibly convert to sealed bearings, but have a few questions / comments
 - I'm told roller bearings are better, They can handle loads better, especially when you are turning corners, leaning, etc. they can take a better weight distribution, or support. Sealed bearings are very rigid and "stiff", meaning it cannot handle the pressures as well as roller bearings. As a "simple cyclist, I'm not sure whether I should worry about this, and just try get sealed bearings?
 - Is it possible to knock out these "cones/cups" on the inside of my hub, and simply replace it with bearings? Is there a bearing that could fit? Will my through-Axle still work? I do have some of those thinner thru-axles, like the old bikes had .....
 - Is there another option without having to change the hub, re-spoke the wheel, and go through all that drama? I was quoted over R1500 for a DEORE hub (not sure what type), which is about a third of what i paid for the whole bike LOL
(And is the above even worth it? How long will bearings last? Can I change them myself?)
 - With us riding through water etc., do sealed bearings get rusted easily? Do they last longer?
 - Are sealed bearings easy to replace yourself?
 - Should I just try get another rim which has a hub and sealed bearings?
 - Is sealed bearings the easiest? Are there other bearing options out there which are simple?
 - Anyone who has done something similar with minimal headache?
 - Anyone with a seal kit??
 - I want to have something that is simple. Something I can possibly fix myself if the bike conks out on a weekend, or if I am away somewhere with no bike shop around, etc.
 - I stay in Alberton, South of Joburg

I also need a 22mm cone spanner which I can get off Takealot I guess. Cape Multi don't have the ParkTool 22mm, and most other shops don't stock that size (PS - Anyone have one laying around??)
Titan Drone Dash 29'er
Year: no idea, said to be around 2015-2018 or so
2 x 9 chainring
Air shock/fork. 
Fusion-X RC32 BOOST fork (110mm)

Thanks!, Paul "madporra"

[BaGearA]

Hub will need to be changed, non negotiable sorry. 

 

Two different systems and both are the basis of how the hub is made.

 

As for the rest, I don't know about roller bearings taking more force ( makes sense in my mind) 

 

That Deore hub you were quoted on is likely also a cup and cone hub and the cost relates to rebuilding the wheel, tape, sealent ect. 

 

How many holes in the rim and measure the opposing sides of the spoke heads with a vernier and post a picture here then maybe ( very unlikely) there's a secondhand hub on here that might be able to work with the existing spokes on the wheel , rebuild and consumables are still going to be needed so this will be a hefty exercise in any way.

[madporra]

Thanks bud. Man, the old days were so much easier LMAO. All this new bike stuff, it's like all alien to me. So complicated. Thanks, will try the measuring thing!

 

[Super Sywurm]

https://www.rapide.co.za/product/rapide-ultralight-pro-boost-front-hub-32-hole/

[Ruben101]

4 hours ago, madporra said:

Hi all, new to the forum. 

First, not sure if there's already a recent discussion on this. If yes, pls post the link.

Second, I'm a "SIMPLE CYCLIST". I don't do races, not a "Vinnige Fanie", I'm not one for all the bells and whistles. I'm just a guy who likes to go for a ride now and again, who doesn;t want the "best of the best", I just need something functional, with a decent lifespan.

Issue: Having to change my ball bearings on front wheel more often. No sign of dust seal. No 22mm cone spanner to tighten unit

I have a Titan Drone Dash 29'er MTB, bought used about a year ago - details I have are below. It has a BOOST fork, Fusion-X RC32 (110mm)
It has ball bearings (they call it "cup and cone"?). I have re-done the bearings once or twice, but recently I had to do it more often.
Main reasons are:
 - I noticed no dust cover (don't think it came with one).
 - I don't have the proper thin 22mm cone spanner so that I can tighten the two nuts on the hub/cone/Thru-axle "thing" (whatever that piece is called). Meaning, I suspect that dust is getting into the bearings, as it only lasts about 300-500km before I need to replace again. I'm sure the sand is slowly messing up the bearing cones too.
I was told by a bike mechanic that many bikes came out with these standard hubs, but I can't recall what the name of the hub was.
The Titan agents don't seem to have the seal kit (huh?!), so they suggested I get a new hub (ka-ching $$$ ??)

I want to possibly convert to sealed bearings, but have a few questions / comments
 - I'm told roller bearings are better, They can handle loads better, especially when you are turning corners, leaning, etc. they can take a better weight distribution, or support. Sealed bearings are very rigid and "stiff", meaning it cannot handle the pressures as well as roller bearings. As a "simple cyclist, I'm not sure whether I should worry about this, and just try get sealed bearings?
 - Is it possible to knock out these "cones/cups" on the inside of my hub, and simply replace it with bearings? Is there a bearing that could fit? Will my through-Axle still work? I do have some of those thinner thru-axles, like the old bikes had .....
 - Is there another option without having to change the hub, re-spoke the wheel, and go through all that drama? I was quoted over R1500 for a DEORE hub (not sure what type), which is about a third of what i paid for the whole bike LOL
(And is the above even worth it? How long will bearings last? Can I change them myself?)
 - With us riding through water etc., do sealed bearings get rusted easily? Do they last longer?
 - Are sealed bearings easy to replace yourself?
 - Should I just try get another rim which has a hub and sealed bearings?
 - Is sealed bearings the easiest? Are there other bearing options out there which are simple?
 - Anyone who has done something similar with minimal headache?
 - Anyone with a seal kit??
 - I want to have something that is simple. Something I can possibly fix myself if the bike conks out on a weekend, or if I am away somewhere with no bike shop around, etc.
 - I stay in Alberton, South of Joburg

I also need a 22mm cone spanner which I can get off Takealot I guess. Cape Multi don't have the ParkTool 22mm, and most other shops don't stock that size (PS - Anyone have one laying around??)
Titan Drone Dash 29'er
Year: no idea, said to be around 2015-2018 or so
2 x 9 chainring
Air shock/fork. 
Fusion-X RC32 BOOST fork (110mm)

Thanks!, Paul "madporra"

How is the rearhub holding up? Normally that's the first one to go.

I'd suggest buy a set of hubs (front and rear). I had the same problem with my wheels. I gave up with the cup and cone system and purchased a new set of hubs (with sealed bearings which you can easily find at any bikeshop) and built over my wheel on the new hubs. It is only a matter of time before the rear cups wear or balls wear out.

Don't think you got the short end ,because you purchased a entry level bike. By the way, Titan puts cup and cone hubs on same of their mid range bikes upwards of R30 000 as well. 

Sealed bearings hubs are not cheap. Like @Super Sywurm mentioned. Rapidé probably has the best value for money hubs. The labour for building the wheel over is about R300-R400 per wheel. You might need to get new spokes because of the flange size being different. Spokes are about R20 each. Sometimes it's worth replacing the nipples too when rebuilding wheels.

If you want go the route of just buying a new wheelset instead of rebuilding your excisting set, you are looking at a minimum of around R6000 for a wheelset

[droo]

A cone spanner is cheaper than a wheel build. I'd guess that the reason your hubs are needing adjustment every 500km is because the jam nut isn't tight enough. Start there. Chat to your LBS rather than just looking online, they'll be able to find you one.

If you want to replace, then rather than throwing a bunch of cash at rebuilding a wheel with an entry level rim, consider either a second hand wheel or wheelset (find something that you can get spares for) or a decent budget option like Lyne. Wheels are one of the most important components of a bike so it'll be money well spent.

 

[nick_the_wheelbuilder]

Not worth replacing that hub - rather get new wheels.

Yes it will cost $$ BUT buy new wheels that already have sealed cartridge bearing hubs.

Forget about the fact that your bike was cheap - if you want a hassle free riding experience, what's that worth?

Spending R5-10k on a set of wheels and have them work well for the next 5 years is a superb investment. Less than R100 per month to have a better ownership experience.

Better wheels will also likely mean you have a better tubeless experience.

Either look at 2nd hand wheels, or budget-friendly ones from Rapide, or Lyne.