TNT1 Posted February 20, 2009 Share No. The factor causing the elongation of a bike chain is not characterised as stretching the chain, but the net result is that the chain is stretched. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Big H Posted February 20, 2009 Share Fokkit maar julle is 'n klomp puntjiesgatte!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wyatt Earp Posted February 20, 2009 Share Speed Devil Call it what you like, but when I explain things in layman's term I try not and over complicate things. As we can see, semantics yet again. However thank you for not clarifying things properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowbee Posted February 20, 2009 Share its called reserviour cap ... as I recall ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speed Devil Posted February 20, 2009 Share No. The factor causing the elongation of a bike chain is not characterised as stretching the chain' date=' but the net result is that the chain is stretched. [/quote'] I think the correct terminology would be to say that the chain is FUBAR, due the articulating points been worn away from normal wear and tear and sometimes misuse/lack of TLC, because effectively only the holes through which the pins go are elongated and not the chain and the links do not stretch therefore the chain cannot stretch. Got my coat and climbing hurridly out the toilet window Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetapson Posted February 20, 2009 Share No matter how hard you pedal or how easy you spin' date=' you will not get the chain to slip on a chainring.[/quote'] Wanna bet..? Unless I'm legendary of course, tho not many would call me urban... Seems like fine advice to me. One piece of advice given to me by a bike shop in a region where they don't have to have this years colours, nor last years for that matter was: leave it. ride it till it breaks. then replace the lot. there may be an element of wisdom in this. Probably depends on how soon you get skipping on your smallest sprocket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetapson Posted February 20, 2009 Share Speaking of which... it seems that for me (and probably for most?) the smallest sprockets wear the most. Is it possible to replace just the 3 or 4 smallest sprockets. These were loose on the cluster I removed. Seems to me if I can change these, the chain and the middle blade (which skipped when I replaced my old chain even tho this apparently is impossible) I might get another chain or two's worth of wear out of a cluster? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Big H Posted February 20, 2009 Share And if the wear on a cassette really worries you order yourself one of these tools...... Rohloff HG/IG Cassette Wear Indicator Tool http://www.dp76.com/images/b/10118.jpg Features:- Easy to use tool for checking cassette wear Manufacturer: RohloffCategory: Bike Cassette and Bike Freewheel Tools http://www.dp76.com/images/brands/rohloff.gif Sale Price: $26.95http://www.dp76.com/cicons.phpao.gif Yes, we ship to Angola HG-IG cassette wear indicator toolDescription: HG-IG cassette wear indicator tool>from........ http://www.dp76.com/products/rohloff-hgig-cassette-wear-indicator-tool/Big H2009-02-20 06:07:02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmaccelari Posted February 20, 2009 Share Well' date=' screw you too china.[/quote']Having another bad day, Johan? I find your immediate knee-jerk response of insulting and belittlingpeople rather off-putting. You may know a lot, but instead of treating people like **** becausethey don't know as much as you (obviously) do, why don't you learna little patience and educate these - dare I say - morons? Or else take some Valium... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speed Devil Posted February 20, 2009 Share Speaking of which... it seems that for me (and probably for most?) the smallest sprockets wear the most. It is actually your favourite/most used gears that wear the most Is it possible to replace just the 3 or 4 smallest sprockets. These were loose on the cluster I removed. You can yes....if you can find the exact same sprocket. There will be a "J" number or similar stamped on the side...good luck with the hunt Seems to me if I can change these' date=' the chain and the middle blade (which skipped when I replaced my old chain even tho this apparently is impossible) I might get another chain or two's worth of wear out of a cluster? Did your chain jump on the blade or on the cluster? maybe you just had a stiff link after connecting the new chain.[/quote'] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LazyTrailRider Posted February 20, 2009 Share The exception perhaps is a MTB's middle chainring. This should actually be made from steel. Luckily, some are. I was quite chuffed to find out that my 2009 SLX for example has steel teeth with a carbon "body"/supporting structure. Unlike that silly titanium XTR crap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowpoke Posted February 20, 2009 Share back to the original quezzie... if you are SURE that you got the right chain (ie 9sp or 10sp) and it's "jumping" at the back then get a new cluster. If it's not the right chain then that would explain why it's "jumping off" the chainrings and getting stuck. if it is the right chain then look at your chainrings very carefully - you might have a damaged tooth (bent or such like) causing the chain to come off, in which case just replace that ring. at all times keep your chain clean and lubed - my TCR has done many thousand kms since i got it in 2004... i have only replaced the chain once (when i was still keeping track, at around 8000km) and i've never replaced the rings or cassettes. i alo (when i was still racing) used to regularly swap the cluster depending on the kind of ride i was doing - 11-23 for flats or 12-26 for hills Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmaccelari Posted February 20, 2009 Share Luckily' date=' some are. I was quite chuffed to find out that my 2009 SLX for example has steel teeth with a carbon "body"/supporting structure. Unlike that silly titanium XTR crap.[/quote']Quite right - and do you know the price of the titanium XTR cr@p?Try 1400 ZA randts for one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetapson Posted February 20, 2009 Share Did your chain jump on the blade or on the cluster? Jumped on the middle blade when I applied force - out of the pedals' date=' climbing etc. Didn't seem to matter where on the chain it was when it jumped. Replacing the blade sorted it out, so I don't think it was a tight link. I'm pretty diligent at checking that my joined links aren't tight in any case. 10/10 for not rising to the bait. It is actually your favourite/most used gears that wear the most I get this - the logic, I suppose being the more you use it, the more it will wear. But there has to be an element of that given equal use, smaller sprockets will wear quicker than bigger sprockets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Bornman Posted February 20, 2009 Share It is actually your favourite/most used gears that wear the most I get this - the logic' date=' I suppose being the more you use it, the more it will wear. But there has to be an element of that given equal use, smaller sprockets will wear quicker than bigger sprockets?[/quote'] Dave, equal use is not that easy to guess. However, the sprocket simply sees how many times one of its cogs (teeth) has engaged and disengaged from a chainlink. A large or sprocket (if they are equally wide, but they're not) will wear out with exactly the same number of link passes per tooth. The photo I showed earlier up is a good example of how much sprocket thickness varies and what effect it has on wear. That sprocket has ramps cut out on the blind side, that help with chain shifting. Those ramps make the sprockets thinner at those spots. If you mark off the very worn teeth on that sprocket and flip the ring around, you'll notice they co-incide with the narrowing of the sprocket. If your sprocket did cause the chain to skip (i.e. ride over the top), it had to have teeth worn down to ramped stumps almost all the way around. A front sprocket has 180 degrees of chain wrap so even a few sequential missing teeth or badly worn ones as in this photo will not make the chain skip. Also, you (I think it was you, I'm not in that view now) said that a bike shop suggested you ride everything until it all fails and then replace everything. That will work. It is also the best strategy for the shop's till. It costs many, many times more doing it that way. The most frugal way is to ride the chain to its wear limit and keep on replacing it until the sprockets skip when a new chain is fitted. Then only replace the sprockets. You can do the arithmetic and you'll see that it isn't such good advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wyatt Earp Posted February 20, 2009 Share Well' date=' screw you too china.[/quote']Having another bad day, Johan?I find your immediate knee-jerk response of insulting and belittlingpeople rather off-putting.You may know a lot, but instead of treating people like **** becausethey don't know as much as you (obviously) do, why don't you learna little patience and educate these - dare I say - morons?Or else take some Valium... Or should we rather say that the "impression" of infinite wisdom is there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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