Eldron Posted December 29, 2009 Share [oh' date= alright then?http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/bicycle/themes/mtb/cc_marathon/Race%20King/raceking_en.html[/quote] Ahhh Race Kings - the choice of professionals, champions and Eldron. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtrider Posted December 29, 2009 Share And for the rest who wants a tyre that is good on all surfaces in all conditions the Kenda Karma will do . The rims strip (Stans/Joe's) conversion is easy and will work on most rims but expensive . The insulation tape conversion is more tricky and takes more effort but cost about R25.00 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Posted December 29, 2009 Share The insulation tape conversion is more tricky and takes more effort but cost about R25.00 . You mean the 'Ghetto Tubeless' conversion? I only know how to do it with a smaller tube for each wheel (cut open, to act as the liner). How does the insulation tape conversion work? Similar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markStockton Posted December 29, 2009 Share nice one' date=' eldron. would like to hear your feedback in a coupla weeks about how the rim strips hold out. there are some naysayers here, but apart from a few tricky installations, i've never had hassles with joe's.[/quote'] I have 1 Joe's strip (out of 4 wheel sets) that looks a little dodge after 1 1/2 years. In that time I've had 1 flat (the day I didn't have a bomb holder) caused by burping the back wheel (ie - running to soft). Anyone still riding tubes on an MTB is just plain dumb. Half the tyres I use arn't (L)UST either. Maintenance is as simple as cleaning the valve core and topping up the Stans / Joe's when I notice the tyre loosing preasure (once every 3 to 6 months). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtrider Posted December 29, 2009 Share Cut your removable core valve out of your old tube . Using Insulation tape you seal the spoke holes , put your tyre on and be sure you got lotsa pressure . Once it has sealed you will never need the compressor again and a normal pump will re-inflate . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tumbleweed Posted December 29, 2009 Share I have 1 Joe's strip (out of 4 wheel sets) that looks a little dodge after 1 1/2 years. In that time I've had 1 flat (the day I didn't have a bomb holder) caused by burping the back wheel (ie - running to soft). my first conversion lasted two years until a dumbass hubbber - he knows who he is, and he doesn't "like innuendo" - borrowed my bike. he musta got a flat and put a tube in. he simply yanked the vavle out of the rim strip and pushed the tube's valve in the tear he created. idiot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Posted December 29, 2009 Share Cut your removable core valve out of your old tube . How do you ensure that no air escapes from the make shift valve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markStockton Posted December 29, 2009 Share Cut your removable core valve out of your old tube . Using Insulation tape you seal the spoke holes ' date=' put your tyre on and be sure you got lotsa pressure . Once it has sealed you will never need the compressor again and a normal pump will re-inflate .[/quote'] Isn't this more or less how the No Tubes "yellow tape" conversion works on the ZTR's. Except they use a specific tubeless valve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtrider Posted December 29, 2009 Share Yip , but a tubeless valve does not work on all rims . If you tighten the vavle properly it does not leak . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markStockton Posted December 29, 2009 Share Yip ' date=' but a tubeless valve does not work on all rims . If you tighten the vavle properly it does not leak .[/quote'] Thanks, I think I may be forced to try this on my 9r. markStockton2009-12-29 06:22:39 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aquatic Posted December 30, 2009 Share Very interesting ..The ghetto mod using a bmx tube should weigh around the same as a joes strip maybe a few grams more.I did both my wheels like this,im going to experiment with dirt riders insulation tape method on my spare wheelset now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Showtime Posted January 4, 2010 Share Thanks for the info. From my understanding non tubeless tyres are fine with conversion kits. Is it a good idea to use non tubeless tyres with UST rims and sealant? Normal Crossmarks on a UST rim for example? Does a UST tyre have a special bead shape or is the sidewall just stronger with additional rubber layers to make the tyre airtight? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldron Posted January 4, 2010 Share Thanks for the info. From my understanding non tubeless tyres are fine with conversion kits. Is it a good idea to use non tubeless tyres with UST rims and sealant? Normal Crossmarks on a UST rim for example? Does a UST tyre have a special bead shape or is the sidewall just stronger with additional rubber layers to make the tyre airtight? Two of the conversions I did were non tubeless tyres (both Maxxis Lusts) on Mavic Crossmax rims (both the normal and the inter spoked milled rims) and they worked fine. You don't need a conversion kit just two valves and some sealant. I liked the Crossmax UST rims because they gave a nice, solid THUNK as the tyres seated. Not exactly sure how tubeless tyres are different - I've done about 7 conversions - all of them using non tubeless tyres.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted January 4, 2010 Share I use to throw a strip away when the valve 'attachment area' started leaking (after some time that is!). Now I just tear it out and buy a Bontrager valve to replace it. No problem after that ....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldron Posted January 4, 2010 Share I use to throw a strip away when the valve 'attachment area' started leaking (after some time that is!). Now I just tear it out and buy a Bontrager valve to replace it. No problem after that ....... This is going to be my next experiment (when one of my tubeless systems fails). I'm gonna try a Joes conversion without the rim strip on a normal rim (ie: with spoke eyelets). Just gonna clean the rim, pop the fibre tapeover the spokes holes, pop in a valve and some sealant and see how long it lasts... Watch this space...although I'm sure the conversions I've done are gonna hold up a looooong time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
predictor Posted January 4, 2010 Share I use to throw a strip away when the valve 'attachment area' started leaking (after some time that is!). Now I just tear it out and buy a Bontrager valve to replace it. No problem after that ....... This is going to be my next experiment (when one of my tubeless systems fails). I'm gonna try a Joes conversion without the rim strip on a normal rim (ie: with spoke eyelets). Just gonna clean the rim' date=' pop the fibre tapeover the spokes holes, pop in a valve and some sealant and see how long it lasts... Watch this space...although I'm sure the conversions I've done are gonna hold up a looooong time...[/quote'] Did tubeless valve on DTswiss rims with UST Crossmarks with issulation tape and Joes. Have done plenty of happy KM on this syten with no issues including Epic. Just replaced the entire system after 1 year as Tyres are now dangerous for my health. Will be sure to try out standard tyres (non UST) next to see how this holds up. PS I way 75km and ran 1.8 front and 2.1 back with NO burping at all not once. Great system that is cheap and works as well if not better than most systems. Thanks Eldron and HR for all info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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