Cois Posted June 6, 2006 Share HELP!!!!! Ek breek speke op my geliefde. Nee ek het nie iemand geslaan met my wiel nie id='chkImg1'%20name='chkImg2'%20smileys/smiley36.gif . Maar ek breek speke op my Gary Fisher Marlin. (Agterwiel weg van die kok) Ek het nog die wiele op my fiets wat saam met hom uitgekom het. Ek is nie een van die kleinste en maarste oaks nie. En ek begin nou moeg raak om die wiel in te vat sodat hulle die ding kan regmaak. id='chkImg1'%20name='chkImg2'%20smileys/smiley7.gif HELP ASB id='chkImg1'%20name='chkImg2'%20smileys/smiley19.gif vanwa_mordo38874.9432638889 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TitusTi Posted June 7, 2006 Share If you've broken more than 3 in a short period of time, it's time to take it in and get the whole wheel rebuilt, use something like the DT competitions, they're strong and will last a good long time, try find someone in your area that is a decent wheel builder. Only solution for this alas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtrider Posted June 7, 2006 Share WAs die speke almal in dieselfde deel van die wiel ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marius Posted June 7, 2006 Share Had two wheels build up by Marks in Bellville, he did a really nice job.smileys/smiley4.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndreZA Posted June 7, 2006 Share Factory built wheels suck. Take both wheels in and have them built correctly. Show them this http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html. I had my wheels rebuild and made the shop redo them agan like this and not a single problem ever again. Now you can even read the labels from the drive side and if you look though the valve hole, you can read the label on the hub facing rearwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TitusTi Posted June 7, 2006 Share Indeed Mampara, that is how a decent wheel should be built, and yes I do agree factory built wheels are not built properly, if you look at the crossing pattern they should be mirror images of each other unfortunately machines can't duplicate this. But sometimes you can't read the label on the hub facing rearwards, some manufacturers print their hubs the other way round, but these should at least be consistent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Big H Posted June 7, 2006 Share I had a LBS in Pretoria build me a set of MTB wheels on sealed bearing hubs. We use this set for slick tyres on the MTB Tandem. Our first ride was just 3 km long. ALL the spokes.... yes ALL the spokes lost their tension. This while sitting in Moz. The LBS (over the costly Sattelite phone) just said ...... sorry!!!!!!! Luckily I purchased a Park Spoke Tensiometer a while ago. At first though it was a White Elephant ( am I racist by calling a Elephant that????) I made myself a wheel trueing stand. It is now very smartly fitted with a dial micrometer that measures runout and all the other critical measurements. I rebuilt the wheels, we have now used it various times and the wheel is still abolutely true. The secret lies in proper tension. Unless you are a VERY experienced wheelbuilder to get wheel tension right is and will be a Heath Robinson affair. "Mog het troffe" never worked on wheelbuilding. Another secret is that I have used a thread lock liquid compound on the spoke nipples on the wheel side. A drop on the head of every nipple seems to be sufficient to keep them in place. DO NOT USE ANY THREADLOCK!!!!!!! BE AWARE YOU MAY SEIZE THE NIPPLES ON YOUR WHEELS !!!!!!!!! I will post the name of the compound I use later. Came across it by pure luck. Mordo, a wheel works on the following principle. The hub hangs on the spokes from the top part of the rim, placing tension on the relevant spokes. The other spokes are in different stages of pressure being relieved on them. Other forces such as lateral and road shock can also infuence the equilibrium. The weakest areas on a spoke is the bend in the spoke head and the part where the nipple threads in. This is where spokes normally break. Any material that is subjected to a repetition of loads will develop metal fatique and evantually break. In your case it is most likely old age. A multitde of other factors can influence breakage as well. Some spoke holes on the hub may be all chamfered whilst other may have a sharp edge on the one side and a chamfer on the other. If the spoke is inserted with the bend against the sharp edge it will break and keep on breaking. Check for this. The Sheldon Brown range articles as menstioned above is one of the best references to introduce you to the sometimes malinged "dark" art of wheelbuilding. Anybody with some decorum of technical ability can learn to build or at the least true wheels. Practise on an old wheel.Hope all this makes sense but please ask if you need any more information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty Posted June 7, 2006 Share George at Mean Machine in Germiston is a master wheel builder and guarantees you wont have any problems after. I had broken spoke problems with previous bikes and since he's done them up, nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cois Posted June 7, 2006 Share DR "WAs die speke almal in dieselfde deel van die wiel ?" Almal was aan dieselfde kant gewees. Baie dankie vir die hulp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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