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tubes or "NO TUBES"


cyclenut

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I'm a roadie who's started to get dirty.

 

Please provide feedback on NO TUBES.

 

I'd appreciate your feedback on the different riding experience, maintance effort, and cost.

 

Considering the above to be equally weighted, feel free to rate them against each other on a score out of 10.

 

 
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Many a thread about this excact issue.

 

My 2c worth.

 

Go tubeless and you will never look back.  

 

One final note on tubeless.   Buy proper tubeless tires (and dont use a normal tire as tubeless) otherwise you might have endless problems of tires burping, sidewall cuts, rolling off your rims etc.  the normal tires just dont have the sidewall thickness to handle all of this 

 

the above problems can be averted with proper tubeless tires.

 

There are many available, but for a bulletproof fast rolling tyre there is only one: the maxxis crossmark LUST. 

 

Ask anyone who has had them on their bikes. they rule.
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To add to the Captain's statements

 

Had sidewall issues with non-tubeless and have moved to proper tubeless for that reason

 

Love the Maxxis Crossmark LUSTS but they aint great in mud!

 
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with mud on this one. run conti explorers with joe's on some bikes. never had an issue. even in thorny botswana. have had to re-inflate my maxxis proper tubeless more often than the contis

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To add to the Captain's statements

 

Had sidewall issues with non-tubeless and have moved to proper tubeless for that reason

 

Love the Maxxis Crossmark LUSTS but they aint great in mud!

 

 

Please explain what you mean by "sidewall issues."

 

JB
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don't know what tyres bb was using, but i found the hutchinson pythons were really crap to convert and the sidewall was weak as anything. ripped two in as many weeks.

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JB - Tore 2 sidewalls on non-tubeless tyres (both Maxxis crossmarks), have not yet torn a sidewall on a tubeless Maxxis!

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JB - Tore 2 sidewalls on non-tubeless tyres (both Maxxis crossmarks)' date=' have not yet torn a sidewall on a tubeless Maxxis![/quote']

 

That doesn't explain much. You say they tore. Were you just riding along on a nice gravel roade and suddenly, whoosh, the sidewalls were torn?

 

How long were the tears? Where on the tyre were the tears? Under what conditions did they tear? How old were the tyres and where were they stored?

 

You present anecdotal evidence and base your recommendation merely on that. It doesn't help people understand tyres and make informed decisions.

 

I once had 27 punctures in 10 meters. Crappy tyres. They can't even ride over an Indian nail bed. Never buy those tyres!!

 

See, a tear isn't just a tear. Lots of people say one should stay away from this or that tyre because they have torn sidewalls in those tyres. Sometimes the advice is third-hand: their second cousin on their stephmother's side once said Continentals are rubbish. He referred to his car, but nevertheless, don't buy Continentals, they will tear sidewalls.

 

Most tears are reasonably forseeable. For instance, if you cut the sidewall on a sharp rock or, if you have an old, oxidised tyre and you pump it very hard or, if your v-brakes are badly adjusted and the pads touch the tyre - those are foreseeable failures and will happen with any tyre.

 

Very few tyres in fact just tear.  There's usually some underlying cause. Yes, faulty batches do exist but...

 

Which brings me to the advice dished out here about avoiding standard tyres and using NoTobes in tubeless only.

 

Most standard tyres are just fine for a NoTubes conversion. Only two conditions that I know of prevent your tyre from being successfully converted:

 

1) A tyre with a very loose bead. you know the type - it hangs on the rim and you can install it without any tools. In this case there is too much of a gap to be filled by the gorilla snot and you never get it inflated.

 

2) Old "skinwall" tyres with a thin latex sidewalls where you can see the cords and halfway through the tyre. These are just too porous for a successful conversion.

 

Apart from those two reasons and of course a big hole, Stans NoTubes can convert just about any tyre.

 

Tubeless tyres are heavy (a big issue with the weight weenies here) and are impossibly difficult to remove, especially in the field with gorilla snot leaking everywhere. People often break tyre levers trying to get a tubeless tyre off. It is easy to see why - the bead has a thick layer of gooey rubber on it for sealing against the rim. This soft rubber doesn't glide over the tyre lever.

 

In my view, these tyres increase your chances of walking home instead of the other way around.

 

Besides, they're ridiculously expensive. You needn't pay more than R200 for a perfectly good MTB tyre.

 

JB

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
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I have the normal Scalwbe with reinf side walls on with Stans kit. So far no problems but in my opinion not too hot in the mud. 

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Every time you post you seem intent on taking someone to task over something.

 

The little bit of mathematician that's still in me says you are wrong. All I have to do to disprove you is find one posting that doesn't do that and I've disproved your "every time" statement. 

 

But you are right if I ignore your universal "every time". I took something to task. A poster trashed a brand with what still seems like very scant evidence.

 

I'd prefer you take me on over the validity of my post and the perspective I've given rather than my lack of smileys or opposition to a certain viewpoint.

 

Let's play the tyre here and discuss these random sidewall failures with some attempt at understanding what's happening. I can assure you that there is no secret technology that one tyre maker has that the others don't.

 

JB

 

 

 
Johan Bornman2007-10-10 08:16:59
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