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Posted

Hi guys, I'm using Tektro Hydraulic discs, yesterday was my first ride on the bike, did about 10kms, but it seems like the pads are rubbing against the discs, not enough to cause friction, but enough to make a horrible noise while peddling at 40km/h.

 

I've read something about discs needing to bed in, is this the same my case or do I need to take the bike back to the store?

 

Cheers

Wedge

Posted (edited)

Minor rubbing is acceptable. Try this also: Loosen the bolts that attach the brakes - then pull the lever - then tighten the bolts while still pulling the lever. (Bedding in is related to the pads requiring a few good pulls before you charge down a mountain.)

Edited by Just Keep Pedaling
Posted

Minor rubbing is acceptable. Try this also: Loosen the bolts that attach the brakes - then pull the lever - then tighten the bolts while still pulling the lever. (Bedding in is related to the pads requiring a few good pulls before you charge down a mountain.)

It is very minor, I'll try realigning the calipers, but maybe I should just live with it.

Thanks for the advice.

Posted

Hi guys, I'm using Tektro Hydraulic discs, yesterday was my first ride on the bike, did about 10kms, but it seems like the pads are rubbing against the discs, not enough to cause friction, but enough to make a horrible noise while peddling at 40km/h.

 

I've read something about discs needing to bed in, is this the same my case or do I need to take the bike back to the store?

 

Cheers

Wedge

 

Wedgy

 

New brakes could be a few things.

New pads may catch a bit, louder if some wet earth gets sucked in.

Ist check to see if the pistons are (almost) all the way home (retracted) when the bike is standing still (it's hard to check if it isn't :thumbup: )

 

If they (pistons) aren't, take the bolts out, remove the pads, and using a plastic tyre lever push them back in. Squeeze the brake lever a few times gently to move them out (but not ALL the way), push back in and repeat a few times.

Replace the pads, spring and retention pin, put caliper back on bike and nip the bolts, then back them off slightly so the caliper can just move. Spin the wheel and gently apply brakes until the wheel stops, holding the lever nip the bolts. Spin the wheel and check for rubbing. You might have to do this a few times.

If the disk (rotor) is catching in one place it may be that it is slightly bent. Use an adjustable wrench set to the thickness of the rotor (tight) and gently lever that spot away from the pad it is catching on.

 

If that does not work and they are new, I suggest taking it back to your LBS (unless it is Makro, Game or S Warehouse!)they may need to be bled properly.

 

Another thing to check on new bikes is that the rotor bolts, or lock ring if splined, are tight on the rotor.

 

Hope that helps.

Posted

Wedgy

 

New brakes could be a few things.

New pads may catch a bit, louder if some wet earth gets sucked in.

Ist check to see if the pistons are (almost) all the way home (retracted) when the bike is standing still (it's hard to check if it isn't :thumbup: )

 

If they (pistons) aren't, take the bolts out, remove the pads, and using a plastic tyre lever push them back in. Squeeze the brake lever a few times gently to move them out (but not ALL the way), push back in and repeat a few times.

Replace the pads, spring and retention pin, put caliper back on bike and nip the bolts, then back them off slightly so the caliper can just move. Spin the wheel and gently apply brakes until the wheel stops, holding the lever nip the bolts. Spin the wheel and check for rubbing. You might have to do this a few times.

If the disk (rotor) is catching in one place it may be that it is slightly bent. Use an adjustable wrench set to the thickness of the rotor (tight) and gently lever that spot away from the pad it is catching on.

 

If that does not work and they are new, I suggest taking it back to your LBS (unless it is Makro, Game or S Warehouse!)they may need to be bled properly.

 

Another thing to check on new bikes is that the rotor bolts, or lock ring if splined, are tight on the rotor.

 

Hope that helps.

Ah thanks dude! I phoned the LBS now, the Rear Dérailleur needs adjusting, so they said they will have a look at the brakes too.

 

I'm definitely saving your write-up for reference later on, thanks again! :thumbup: By the sound of it, it sounds like the pistons aren't retracting completely.

Posted

Wedgy

 

New brakes could be a few things.

New pads may catch a bit, louder if some wet earth gets sucked in.

Ist check to see if the pistons are (almost) all the way home (retracted) when the bike is standing still (it's hard to check if it isn't :thumbup: )

 

If they (pistons) aren't, take the bolts out, remove the pads, and using a plastic tyre lever push them back in. Squeeze the brake lever a few times gently to move them out (but not ALL the way), push back in and repeat a few times.

Replace the pads, spring and retention pin, put caliper back on bike and nip the bolts, then back them off slightly so the caliper can just move. Spin the wheel and gently apply brakes until the wheel stops, holding the lever nip the bolts. Spin the wheel and check for rubbing. You might have to do this a few times.

If the disk (rotor) is catching in one place it may be that it is slightly bent. Use an adjustable wrench set to the thickness of the rotor (tight) and gently lever that spot away from the pad it is catching on.

 

If that does not work and they are new, I suggest taking it back to your LBS (unless it is Makro, Game or S Warehouse!)they may need to be bled properly.

 

Another thing to check on new bikes is that the rotor bolts, or lock ring if splined, are tight on the rotor.

 

Hope that helps.

 

You sound like a clever fellow.

Related to above

I have a Superlight with Juicy Sevens

 

Never a days problem

All of a sudden on Sunday while riding the back brake began to bind to the point where you can hardly turn the wheel.Had to take the caliper off completely to ride home.

Have not had a chance to look at it...possible cause??

Posted

AVIDS :angry:

 

If a bleed (all the best!) doesn't work then the piston seals are probably finished.

Caliper will need an overhaul.

 

I've never managed to sort Avids on outrides where they have failed. Always had to remove caliper and get the rider to tie his/her fingers together to remind themselves that they have no brake that side.

 

If you don't have the bleed kit and some patience, then you need your LBS.

 

SHIMANO ROCKS :thumbup:

Posted

AVIDS :angry:

 

If a bleed (all the best!) doesn't work then the piston seals are probably finished.

Caliper will need an overhaul.

 

I've never managed to sort Avids on outrides where they have failed. Always had to remove caliper and get the rider to tie his/her fingers together to remind themselves that they have no brake that side.

 

If you don't have the bleed kit and some patience, then you need your LBS.

 

SHIMANO ROCKS :thumbup:

 

I like my Juicy's

Had them since 2007 with nary a problem just pads

I dont have a bleed kit :angry:

I am off the Jhb on the weekend so its in to Mikes for a service I suppose.

Thanks for the advice

Posted

AMEN to that brother :lol:

LOL, William Moffet Drive is pretty steep. I'll definitely not be able to average that, LOL. The point I tried to bring across is that as the speed increases, so does the noise. :D :lol:

Posted (edited)

"William Moffet Drive is pretty steep"

 

When you reach the bottom of the hill feel the rotors with your fingers. I dare you.

Funny enough, that thought already crossed my mind, I kindly denied it though.

 

So just to be clear, they get very hot on long rides?

Edited by Wedge
Posted

AVIDS :angry:

 

If a bleed (all the best!) doesn't work then the piston seals are probably finished.

Caliper will need an overhaul.

 

I've never managed to sort Avids on outrides where they have failed. Always had to remove caliper and get the rider to tie his/her fingers together to remind themselves that they have no brake that side.

 

If you don't have the bleed kit and some patience, then you need your LBS.

 

SHIMANO ROCKS :thumbup:

 

Not sure which avids you are referring to, I’ve had pad rubbing issues with my 2010 Elixr CR’s ever since new and recently heard from Avid that for 2011 they have fixed the problem (sounds familiar, sounds familiar, sounds familiar….) and that if I send them my old callipers they will replace them with new ones under warranty.

So as soon as I get my new shimano’s installed I’m sending the Avids off to Avid :D

Posted

Not sure which avids you are referring to, I’ve had pad rubbing issues with my 2010 Elixr CR’s ever since new and recently heard from Avid that for 2011 they have fixed the problem (sounds familiar, sounds familiar, sounds familiar….) and that if I send them my old callipers they will replace them with new ones under warranty.

So as soon as I get my new shimano’s installed I’m sending the Avids off to Avid :D

 

And ye shall not be a sorry convert. :thumbup:

 

2min to change pads.

5min to bleed.

No blistered paintwork.

No expired seals.

 

Hope you went for XT or Saint.

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