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Posted

Hi all,

 

I have an '06 Trek Remedy, which was fitted with my old '03 Manitou Black Elite 120mm from the beginning.

 

That fork has now died a horrible death.

 

The '06 specs listed a 120mm fork originally.

 

Not having any luck finding a good used fork, I am now browsing for a new one.

 

If I were to upgrade my fork (anywhere from 140mm to 180mm), what would the effects be on the bike/ride?

 

I am a very technical and aggressive rider, if that makes any difference.

 

Thanks, Nic

Posted

I suspect that you would end up with more rake, and therefore a more "relaxed" effective head tube angle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

But I reserve the right to be completely and spectacularly wrong.

Posted

Merlin - be careful about this. Try a search, I popped up a similar question a while back about headset angles.

 

Advice was that not only might it effect the ride, including BB height(!), but you must be confident that the increased stress from the rake/suspension, can be handled comfortably by your headset!

 

Will look for it as soon as I'm in front of a pc again...

Posted

If your bike was perfectly balanced before, climbing and descending well, especially for very steep technical riding, then stick to the same length fork.

 

If it tended to lift the front wheel on very steep climbs, then difinitely don't get a longer fork.

 

If you needed to lower your saddle or move far back on the saddle to go down very steep descents, then a longer fork could actually work.

 

Ever considered an adjustable fork?

 

Check Chain Reaction, often they have very good specials on forks.

Posted

Be very careful, the headtube/headset may not be able to withstand the stresses at different angles. This was confirmed by CRC a while ago :

 

Hi Richard,

 

Thank you for contacting us.

 

This Fox 32 Float RL has a 1.5” steerer so it will not fit your frame. We also do not recommend travel longer than 100mm for this frame; anything longer is likely to void you warranty as the risk of damage to the headtube area is increased.

 

If you have any other questions please just ask.

 

 

Kind Regards,

 

Sam

 

 

Sam B Technical Advisor

Tel: +44(0)28 9335 2976 Fax: +44(0)2893349461 Ext: 241

Email: Sales@chainreactioncycles.com

Chain Reaction Cycles Ltd. Kilbride Rd Doagh Ballyclare BT39 0QA United Kingdom

The World's Largest Online BikeStore

Posted

Thanks everyone.

 

I have a seriously odd riding style, which works for me and only me, so I can't really comment on the 'riding position' point...

 

It was pretty nicely balanced, but it definitely didn't lift on inclines. Two Sanis are testament to that.

 

My old Manitou is/was adjustable, but I'm one of those nutters that use full travel any and everywhere. Remote lockout is the most useless piece of kit you could ever fit to my bike.

 

The fork I've now got my eye on is a Rock Shox Lyrik U-Turn. That's described as a 170mm but shows 160mm in the details.

 

I was hoping to order it and a new 20mm hub (new experience for me) this weekend in the hopes of riding next, but clearly I'm going to have to speak to some local bike shops first...

 

Yup, already been shown the way to Chain Reaction. :D Thanks.

Posted (edited)

Hmmmm, if you were running a 120mm, 170mm is going to knock your geometry waaaaaay off, as amazing as the Lyrik is.

 

Remember, it's going to slacken your head angle substantially, so your steering will slow down a *lot*. It'll feel like you're riding a Harley, regardless of the difference it makes to ride height on the front. On my 5.5" (140mm) travel bike, changing travel from 110mm to 140mm with U-Turn has a pronounced effect, steering is definitely slower.

 

If you're going to get any fork, get a U-Turn (as you're looking at), so that you're able to dial it to a setting that feels balanced. What's the lower U-turn setting on the Lyrik you're looking at?

Edited by Martin Hattingh
Posted

Longer fork = longer axle-to-crown measurement.

So it will raise the BB height, raising the center of gravity - this can be a good thing or a bad thing depending on the type or riding you do.

It will slacken the head angle with around 1deg per 20mm - this will give you less positive steering, but add confidence going down - benefit of this will again be subject to your riding style.

 

As mentioned, it will affect your climbing as there will be less weight on the front wheel causing it to wonder a bit easier - this can be 'fixed' by taking some spacers out or by using a slightly longer stem, or simply moving your but forward a bit on the saddle to move the COG forward a bit.

 

It will slacken the seat tube which will result in a very slight change in pedaling feel.

Posted

Hi guys,

 

Martin: U-turn = 45mm

 

I wasn't aware my disappearance was noticed, Slowbee. ;) Thank you. My apologies, but I don't recall the nick?

 

I've got quite a few spacers already, so my handlebars are somewhat higher than a bike technican is happy with. Without measuring, I've got a pretty lengthy stem too. I just ride...all of this mm setup malarky uses up riding time. ;)

 

I'll keep the Lyrik in mind but will sit down this w'end and keep on looking...

 

Anyone know a Sugar Mommy looking to buy a dashing young gentleman a new FR bike? Hehe.

Posted

Yeah, I meant remove spacers to have the bars as low as you can without having it flush with the headset, like 3mm spacer should be good.

I have a 2011 Lyrik and NOTHING beats it - find it much smoother than the Float (have not rode the Kashima though).

 

Good luck!

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