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There are two other alternatives.
1. Remove the clamp from the lever and install a different clamp on the side.
2. take a file and shave down the clashing parts till the lever is snug over the shifter.
I have asked the shop I bought this from to find me a M6000 Deore lever, lets see what happens.
It is setup like that at the moment but the shifter is a little far inboard. Trying to find a Deore RH Brake lever with I-Spec II. Thanks.
Hello to all,
How can I get my M8050 Di2 Shifter into the ever so slightly small gap in my new M6100 Brake lever.
https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ago1BRshSt0IvG1LkMj2xtcpIx9N?e=OYZj06
At it's widest point the shifter is 22.5mm and the brake gap is 20mm. If the brake lever had a different clamp on it could work.
Any Ideas please?
Might I ask why you would want to go from thru-axle to QR? What is the benefit?
Supply and demand has played a big role in the prices of the last few years. You cannot tell me that a fork service kit which sells for R500 costs even R50 to manufacture? Product manufacturers also keep in mind that if you are willing to pay R100k for a bike then you can afford a R2k service so that is what they will charge you.
I recently put a set of Barzo 650B tyres on my wife's trail bike and so far they have held up well. We mostly ride sand and hard pack with occasional rocks. Pressure is 1.6 for front and rear.
I don't think there too many parts that have to be OEM.
When I rebuilt my Trek Rumblefish I needed new bits for the ABP Dropout Conversion on the rear frame and those are all very specific, other than that everything else was what I fancied and who had a product I wanted. My rear thruaxle though would have cost R900 so I got a bolt from my local hardware store that would work and it stayed there for about a year before I bought a KCNC thruaxle.
With all the aftermarket stuff available nowadays you can basically pick and choose whatever you want.
Cranks, BB, headset, frame bearings, pedals, chains, cassettes, groupsets and brakes. These are just some items that you don't need to go for OEM.
My frame, Fork and crank are all that are Original on my bike. Over the years everything else has been swapped out and rebuilt with newer or different stuff.
Three antithetical thoughts in one post?
I really don't get the snobbish attitude in this thread.
@TNT1. No not if you read the entire post and not just three portions of three different sentences.
1. I rode an Ebike and it was a riot i.e. lots of fun.
2. If you ride an ebike just because you want to show off then the concept of pedalling a bike along and pushing your limits might be lost on you.
3. If you bitch and moan about ebikes because one beat your KOM then you have missed the plot entirely.
As for the snobbish attitude I honestly do not have one, I rode an ebike and liked it. Should people be allowed to ride ebikes, yes. Should people cry because ebikes are faster in some aspects than their non ebike brethren, no.
Even though 1x12 has become common and gives great range don't discount a 1x11 setup. Sometimes bike shops will be able to mix and match some parts to create a better/cheaper option for you so for example; Maybe a certain bike comes with 1x12 but the shop will do a 1x11 or such and give you a better price. Sometimes people buy bikes but have them upgraded before collection so the bike shops have new items that came off new bikes before delivery. Doesn't hurt to ask them about better prices on such items.
At the moment stock especially in M size is a huge issue, helped a friend buy a bike a month or so ago and learnt as much.
Get hold of a couple of bike shops local to you, tell them what you would like and what your price range is and maybe they have something or can build something that will work for you.
Good luck.
I test rode a Giant Ebike on holiday a few years back, could not stop smiling because it was a riot.
That being said if you have a reason for an ebike like an operated or weak limb, maybe you are older and very unfit, any illness like diabetes or such then by all means go for it. If you use an ebike just because you can well that's your decision but you might be missing the point of cycling and pushing your own limits.
If all you care about is someone crushing your KOM then you have forgotten what it's all about.
4
Dude if your dangly bits are so close to the rear shock you need stronger undies or you need to go for an operation and get some length taken out.Looks similar suspension setup to the Liteville 301.
Mate of mine got a bad bruise on his thigh when he landed badly and the suspension “bit” him.
Freaks me out that my Crown Jewels are in such close proximity to those moving bits[emoji85][emoji15]
Bloody hell but some of you can moan for no reason. Pushing the boundaries requires ideas to be tried and tested. Sometimes it works and other times it doesn't but for goodness sake at least give it a chance before puking your opinions out about why it has already failed.
That being said it is a bold move from trek. Will be taking a closer look at how that suspension works when details become available. Overall I think it is a cool idea.
6
Ordered from CRC 31st January, order arrived in SA 3 February.
Got my Vat-Admin Fee-Bend Over invoice and paid it on 5th Feb and since then
Nothing. Nada. Zip. Niks.
13 days and still On Hold, Awaiting Customs Clearance.
I really like their bikes. Hope they market themselves properly.
Melrose arch Cycle Shop gone Trek-why?
in Bike Shops & Services
Posted · Edited by Vilgrim
My dad was the same, "No Nissan will ever reside on this yard", all because he once had a bad experience with one car that was not even his.
My 2013 Trek Rumblefish is still going strong so dissing the entire company because of 1 bike is a bit much Copperhead. Maybe take things on a case by case basis.