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Robrider

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Everything posted by Robrider

  1. I think you missed my point slightly... I only used the Makro bike as an analogy to show what a bike with insufficient damping feels like. It has nothing to do with my opinion on suspension design, because its a crap bike, and has nothing on oll the technology spent etc. I'm also not saying duels rob all your energy and you shouldn't ride one. The fact is, the suspension is designed to absob the energy of big impacts, and it does a flippen good job. All the money spent on sus design proves that there WAS room for improvement, and if they still spending the money, it could still get better. And yes, shock technology and frame design improvements that stop pedal bobbing are definately making them more efficient. The ONLY thing i was trying to say was that once the shock compresses, energy is lost. And thats a good thing. No amount of design is going to change that, because thats what its supposed to do. If you look at where the technology is heading, its to try and stop your shock moving while pedaling, and only move when you want it to move... So I think we are in agreement, I just wanted to dispell the thought that the energy can be "returned" into the system, which it can't
  2. Not if all the parameters have been checked. At the risk of defending JB again.. which is not my intention... If a shock defelcts, the system looses energy. Thats how susspension works. No matter what type of shock it is, air, oil, spring, polymer, car, motor bike, etc. there are two main components acting- a spring, and a damper. Now if the damper was not there, the spring would keep you bouncing up and down many times after the "bump". (This brings to mind some of those Makro dual suspension bikes) Now even the best spring in the world would eventually stop bouncing. why? Because the energy is lost in the form of intearnal heat (molecules of the spring rubbing against eachother). Now if we look at the damper- In the case of a bicycle shock, its usally oil flowing through orifices. And the whole point of that is to slow the motion down. (whether its the initial deflection or rebound is irrelevant). So the damper uses the friction of the oil to slow down the motion... So all that energy is now in the oil, in the form of fluid friction or drag or turbulence or whatever you want to call it, and no longer in the motion of the bicycle. No matter how many parameters you check, Thats how a shock works. If energy wasn't lost, you would be bouncing on a pogo stick.
  3. What drivel! What causes this massive weight shift from the front to the back of a car under acceleration??? This is a phenomenon known as load transfer and has nothing to do with a shift of weight. There might be a small weight transfer caused by small CoG displacement as a result of suspension pitch change, vertical suspension travel or tyre contact patch deformation, but that is all. How would this weight shift work in a solid suspension vehicle under acceleration? Or a vehicle witjh a massively long wheelbase?? Since this is a written medium, as you say, stop writing drivel and answer the question please. Quote some references, don't offer some pathetic, badly thought-out thought experiment. FYI the load shift phenomenon is exactly the same with a bicycle. Speed of acceleration simply goes to quantum of load shift but does not somehow negate load shift. When you sit on a pillion and the motorbike accelerates, the pillion rider experiences inertia, not weight shift!! When you are a stoker you are pulling on handlebars and pushing down on pedals - how on earth do you compare the two phenomena. Did you apply yourself at all to this answer, or are you simply unraveling your ignorance here and thinking everyone sucks up your nonsense? The torsion on a bicycle rear wheel will want to move the rear wheel forward, not the BB down. The resultant will be determined by pivot placement. On some designs this chain jacking will want to compress the shock. This causes bobbing. Our pedal action causes as much forward-backward motion as it does up-down. This causes bobbing. You say this robs power and you offer a quantitative equation to measure this. Please could you offer some substantiation of this, other than your speculative and questionable equation. Now please explain how in similar vein, on an unsuspended road bike, the deformation of a BB from side-to-side has never been shown or measured as a loss of power? You say all the energy of the shock compression is lost as heat and dissipated into the atmosphere, contributing to global warming? You evidently don't understand the concept of kinetic energy stored in the air spring of the suspension component, most of which is returned to the rider as the unit rebounds. Either this or you are being deliberately disingenuous. Either way, your responses are sheer nonsense. I'll have a go at this one... I will agree that the weight shift is due to the acceleration forces, not the shift of weight (although i think its just semantics)... With out acceleration the only force on the wheels is due to the weight (mass x gravity). so as the bicycle/car accelerates the acceleration force (or inertial force) acts backwards (mass x acceleration). The total force acting on the wheels is then a function of the resultant force (the combined force of the 2 accelerations) See diagram below: This is where I have to agree with JB becase of two reasons: 1) the acceleration of the bicycle is really really small. No matter how hardcore you think you are, its just not that much. So, yes, it is still there... and yes, it will cause weight shift.... but i would guess (not fact) that tilting yr head slightly back would have a simliar effect. Also remember, we not talking about track cycling acceleration, we talking about riding uphills. 2) The weight shift force is ONLY due to acceleration, which is the changing of speed. So if you are going at a constant speed, then that force dissapears completely. So in this context, most people say they lock it out while climbing, which is where theyexperience the bobbing, they will be at a constant speed. So considering all that, I would say weight shift due to acceleration plays very little role in when to lock out your shock
  4. Its very similar... A basic +/-2km completely untechnical loop, with different single tracks coming off at various points. Gradings are similar to MTN bike park, from easy to double black diamond. Alot of man made bridges, dropoffs, etc. Will have to see what they've done with it in the last few years.
  5. Seems its re opening, and will be cheaper!! Good day for MTB This was an email from a friend of a friend... hope they dont mind me posting it: Dear RMBC Member ? Your support of this worthy cause would be appreciated. We will be hosting our annual Country Festival on the 29th of May 2010 and in conjunction with this we will be re-opening The Logwood Mountain Bike Park. We are very excited as the Bike Park has been closed for some time now. Due to the fact that it is our Country Festival, you will only pay the entrance fee for the Festival (R30 adults/R10 kids,12 years and under) and not for the Bike Park. So for one day only, you get free entry into our bike park so come and see what developments have taken place on the bike trails. In the past the bike park was run by an outside vendor. His fee was R50 entry for all. From hereon out the entrance fee into The Logwood Mountain Bike Park will be R30 per person. So bring your mountain bike along and don't forget to bring the family along, as our Festival caters for everyone. While you are experiencing our new trails, your family can enjoy the following at our Festival: COUNTRY FESTIVAL - 29 MAY 2010 FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY: Food stalls: Hamburgers / Boerewors rolls / Cake Stall / Tea Garden / Orange and Veggie Stall / Chicken curry n rice / Portuguese Stall / Cheese & Nougat / Hot chips / Ice creams / Popcorn FOR THE KIDS: Activities: Shooting / Mechanical Bull / Go carts / Model car racing / Camel & Pony rides Carousel / Quad bikes / Valcro Wall / Jumping castle CRAFTER STALLS We have a variety of stalls this year. There is something for everyone. LIVE ENTERTAINMENT Thanks to Abbey Artico from SHE Band (picture on the rwe will be having a variety of Bands that will entertain you throughout the day. STALL BOOKINGS Should you wish to book a stall please contact Dawn Engelbrecht - info@logwoodvillage.co.za / 083 294 3833. Contact Logwood Village Tel: 087 754 3536/7/8/9 / 24hr: 076 149 1965 Email: info@logwoodvillage.co.za Residential: candace@logwoodvillage.co.za / bonita@logwoodvillage.co.za / residents@logwoodvillage.co.za Address: Plot 100, Sunset Drive, Nooitgedacht, 1739 / PO Box 110, Muldersdrift, 1747 Website: www.logwoodvillage.co.za
  6. Not even a little bit!! I think in the last 2 years races such as MTN (and others) have steped up to the plate to provide much better routes. They are becoming more technical, but are not unridable. If you riding a dual suspension, and you think its too technical, maybe you should stick to road riding and craiter cruise.
  7. I dont know much, but... Speak to peach here on the hub. He's really good, and a nice guy too. "the art of trials" is a good video/dvd that helps go through the skills from basics.
  8. I changed my BB yesterday and am having some problem with the alignment of the chainrings relative to the casstte after i put everything back together.... My frame BB part is 72mm wide, and the instructions say that if its 72mm, put one spacer (2.5mm) on the right side cup only. For other options (68mm wide frame), the instructions say put 2 spacers on the right and one on the left. (So in the instructions there is no option where the L and R use the same amount of spacers). Ok, so thats pretty simple and obvious, and I put everything back together. Now whats bugging me is when the bike is in the middle chain ring and biggest gear in the back, the chain is really skew. as you pedal slowly the chain even shakes from side to side as each link comes off the cassette, because of the angle. So I'me really worried about how much wear this will cause. When the cassette is in its smallest, the chain is pretty much straight. So my question... Are the instructions more of a guideline, and should i take the one spacer off the right cup, which will bring the chainring closer to the frame and more inline with the cassette. will this have any other implications (like L and R pedals at different distances from the frame, or with the seals in the central sleeve (because the cups will now be closer together than recomended)). My logical side says just take out the spacer. But then why would the instructions so clearly be wrong? Other information, if relevant: XT drive train, no baby chainring Aerozine BB Merida HFS hardtail frame
  9. or even easier still, Microsoft picture manager click on edit picture, click on compress picture choose compression setting.
  10. ya, just a chilled one tho...
  11. Hey, I have both egg beater SL and candy C. I find quite a difference with the platform, my foot seems more stable giving more confidence on rough downhills. I also had to rebuild the egg beaters due to wear. While I was waiting for the rebuild kit I got some Candys. The candy C's cost about R250 on chain reaction an are lighter than XTR pedals (and work way better). Plus they come with new cleats, which for me needed replacing. So for the price of the rebuild kit plus cleats, you can get a brand new set of Candy C's. For value its a no brainer. For stability its also better. For weight weenies, maybe those few grams mean alot...
  12. No, The avelanche is an "all mountain" frame and the zaskar is an "xc" frame. all mountain - more comfy up right postion xc race - lower down stretched out, faster, but less comfy Both are excellent frames for their type of riding. I think the zaskar is lighter.
  13. This sounds like a stupid question, but I think its actually relevant. I started running as cross training (something I NEVER did before), and after about 3 months rode Sabie Experience. There was one particular cobble section on a climb that was almost unridible, and even if you did ride it, you would waste ALOT of energy. I jumped off and found I could run much much faster than anyone around me could ride. I tried this a couple more times, when my speed dropped below 6km/h on the steepest of climbs I found I could run at about 7km/h. and I passed lots of people on those secctions and got to the top with fresh legs I suppose once you get good enough, you dont need that anymore. ...Now that I've tarnished my name forever...
  14. Rotors are XT centre lock. Been running same rotors for at least 3 sets of sintered metal pads and its the 1st time they doing this, so its not the traditional "noisy". Could mayb be worn rotor? I have a spare set of pads, I can try them. The pads still have plenty wear left in them, so i dont really want to replace them, but at least I can try figure out the problem. @ canaris, Thanks, not much single track on the way to work (plenty on the week end tho), and somehow not breaking while going through busy intersections doesnt sound like such a good idea.
  15. Ok, sorry to labour this issue, but I'm going to hi-jack this thread (if you don't mind ) because I have a very simmilar problem... Problem: When I use the front brake hard it squeals for about 2 seconds before the squeal "resonates" and causes the whole bike to shudder (quite violently ). I first checked that the wheel was in properly and secured. Then re aligned the pads (pretty new, no significant wear) Then checked that the headset, and brake mounts etc were tight and no play in the front wheel, and removed and retightened the rotor. Then I read a post the other day similar problem and ppl advised that the person lightly sands the rotor with fine paper to clean them. I tried that last night eventually, and half way to work this morning was fine (yay ), and then it started again (ah ). I dont know how to check wheel bearings, although the wheels were serviced a month ago, and the shock 2 months ago. unlike the OP it does not occur during normal riding, only braking. Its not over heating issue, because it occurs even on first use onwards... Brakes are XT, pads are XTR metal sintered. I really dont know what else to try...
  16. Ya, I've seen that twice actually. Once it started little bubbles several places all along the centre line. similar to yours, and I think it was due to wear. The other time it happened, was also tyres with alot of wear, but it only happened in one place, a REALLY big bulge and off the centre line... Eventually we figured out that we had transported the bike the bike on a different car, and the tyre was in the line on the exhaust Clearly the heat had caused delamination Both times, I wouldnt take the chance and got rid of the tyres.
  17. NOT YET!!! but soon... T minus 52 min and counting
  18. Cant offer decent advice, but I can say that I have the Phenom, and I'm very happy with it. Done many marathons and Sabie Experience, no problems.
  19. yay! I also have my steed outside the office on the car... Maybe no one will notice if i slip out...
  20. Spray adhesive you can get from art shops like herbert evens or im sure a hardware store. Some of the other options sound tastey. At least if you leave your bars at home you can lick yr grips. Or you can just buy lock on grips that you actually like... there so many out there
  21. Ok, so how does this work, and what does it mean? Does the race index have anything to do with your seeding? Because all my race indxies (sp?) are less than my over all seeding. So its not a simple average... A race like Sabie this coming weekend... Would anyone know how many batches, and what seeding would put you in what batch?
  22. I saw it in the fast one mtb race last yr. It was a two lap race, and the lady who was coming third came past me, and then started screaming and swearing at the back marker who we were aproaching. The person was CLEARLY new and nervous on a bike. I have never been so angry. when I went past the back marker a waited til there was a space I could get past with out making her nervous and said thank you as I did. No need for behaviour like that! The worst part was that after the race I went to look at the possitions and she was about 15 minutes off second place. So she didnt have even a little bit of hope of catching up
  23. Ya, dont worry about courses... they seem like a bit of a rip to me. Find some friends and go and ride. sure u might fall once or twice, but thats part of it. northers quickie is def a good race to start with! If you dont have any riding friends yet, go to a club as a guest once or twice. You will make friends pretty quickly, mtbers are pretty easy going.
  24. Yeah I heard about the alternate landing for the shuttle. very cool. I also skydive, not good enough to go to the boogies yet tho. Where do you jump?
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