TyronLab

That's awesome, very much in line with what I want to achieve. Where did you get the threadless stem adapter? I'm keen on one, primarily so that I can have the option of fitting a modern flared bar. Did you have the stays cold stretched to fit a modern rear wheel?

There are a large number of Hennies on Bikehub it seems. Mind paging him in here? I'm taking a chance with you @Hennie Bosch. If you're not the right Hennie, then I at least confused someone properly today, which makes it a good day.

Venturing into unknown territory here, so I need some guidance from Hubland. I'm keen on restomodding a vintage road bike into an allroad / gravel machine. Planning on doing some restoring, some painting, but mostly just to have something to fiddle with in the garage. Keen on doing it on a vintage bike because steel most definitely is real, I can pick a project bike up for relatively little money, and they're just cool looking. Keep in mind: I'm doing this to have fun, so trying to keep the faff and cost level to a minimum (i.e. not too keen on buying a R500 tool to extract some exotic bottom bracket). So being able to fit a relatively modern brakes or groupset, to simplify finding relatively modern parts, would be ideal. I want something as "consumer" as possible. Partly because I don't feel like defacing some mythical bike with my ham-fisted workmanship, and partly because its likely to be cheap. My ideal donor bike, and what I plan on doing: Capable of taking a MTB / gravel drivetrain (i.e. 1x 40t-ish chainring, maybe an 11/32 or 11/42 at the back) or being set up single speed. So something with a freehub and not a freewheel. Frame will be repainted in olive / miltary fatigue green. All hardware gloss or matte black (little to no chrome). Can take some 30-33mm cx tyres (highly unlikely I know). Idea is that I take a bike that's pretty much running at the moment, disassemble it and restore the existing parts a bit to neaten it up, then slowly change it to get to my vision. What I need some help with is which bikes I should look out for, what I need to stay away from or be aware of, or even if there is one for sale pointing me in its direction. I'm considering this bike (I rode a 56cm Titan Switch with a 70mm stem which was a bang-on fit for me, so I'm thinking it'd fit me at least): https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/vintage-bikes/533345/classic-zini-with-shimano-105s Think this, but more Judas Priest and less Mumford and Sons:

I'm toying with the idea of restomodding a vintage road bike, and your name actually popped into my head knowing the quality of work you put up. Keen on doing it myself just for fun, but I'll most likely be buzzing you for some info (or parts....) pretty soon.

As someone who frequents a divorcycle, I find an extension of this one of the only annoying bits. Somehow every third person that sees you inevitably elbows one of their unwashed miscreant buddies in the flank, asking them to hold their Cane and Pepsi, before yukking out the epitome of wit: "Bruh she's not pedaling hey! KE KE KE KE" If you ever consider blurting that out at a passing tandem, even with the best of intentions, reconsider and rather give them pretty much any other greeting. Regarding calling it a divorcycle, I've always loved this:"Regardless of where your relationship is going, a tandem will get you there faster."

That bike deserves better than that tube taped to the seatpost. Sies man! 😁 Stunner! I've found that when its rolled up toight and taped right above the bottom bracket its the most inconspicuous.

Your wish is my command! All the way back to November 2020. My last triple digit ride before the Grit was December 2020. You're 100% right though. I average 2-3 rides a week, taking a week or so off every two / three months due to work / family / holiday etc, and have been riding that way since mid 2018 when I started cycling again. I did try to ramp up my riding consistency and load towards Jan 2021 as I was entered into the Transbaviaans with a pretty strong group, but when that was cancelled I stuck to just riding for fun. I was set on this path some time ago, but after the Grit I'm cemented into it. I ride bikes to have fun. I want to be fit enough to have fun when out riding to enjoy myself and not feel like I've been through the wringer every time (unless I choose to put myself through it). I want to be fit enough so that if an opportunity to do something cool / epic / adventurous presents itself I can at least attempt it. I want to keep drinking beer and eating pizza and not die at 45 due to being a fat schlub, so that keeps me riding. But structured training and dumb indoor riding, just for the sake of going from 4000th to 3200th in the 947 seems utterly pointless to me.

Haha, thus the tough SOB disclaimer in my statement. And that should give some more context to my previous statements in my story. I am by no means a prime physical specimen. But what I can confidently say is that I can keep a pretty positive mental outlook in tough circumstances, and that I'm a relatively tough SOB. That's what gets you through more than I think any amount of training could. Look, this is all relevant to finishing, not winning.

Tyres: Gotcha. I bought complete, but I binned the Byways even though they felt amazing on tar as I can't deal with tubes and a buddy of mine had a bad prang riding non-tubeless things tubeless. Bars: I'm 178cm, rode a L Scout. When I changed to the Rapides I also went down to a 70mm stem from the stock 100mm. It felt WAY comfier and less stretched out than the stock setup. Then again, I'm not very susceptible to fit issues generally. That nervousness to change positions is greatly reduced with the flared bar, that I can guarantee you. It feels more like your hands are just shifting over, versus letting go and reattaching with the normal bar. Yeah, there's something about the Scout that's just.... ******* Rock & Roll. It's like an Alfa Romeo. It has a personality. Eugh, now I'm missing Thunderhorse (my Scout's name) even more...

Yeah, they were a mission to find before this whole shipping debacle, now they're hen's teeth unfortunately. I was running Gravelking SK's, 43mm at the back and 48mm at the front (only ones I could find in stock). I've heard mixed reviews on the WTBs (assuming Resolutes?). Bag is OK, but in Munga conditions the one zipper got stuck. Look, it was subjected to 15 hours of grit and rain and mud and my grimy tired fingers prying it open, but ja, not exactly the toughest system out there. Actual material its made of seems pretty tough and it was watertight (when the zip was still working). I'd go for the full 46cm. It is supremely comfortable, for my proportions at least. The most natural hand position I've ever had on a bike. Considering that same bar for my STR's drop bar conversion. OFF TOPIC: Not gonna lie, the fact that I've now been tagged in that image 5 times in the last day and have had multiple people ask me about the Scout is making me miss mine like crazy.... STOP TRYING TO GET ME TO SPEND MONEY I DON'T HAVE ON ANOTHER SCOUT BIKEHUB!

If you want some numbers here's what I did. If you're doing more than that, and you're a tough SOB, you'll finish:

Haha, @mecheng89 I'm the worst example to use! TL;DR: Have a strong cup of HTFU as the start gun goes off and you'll be fine. If I can give you any sort of advice @HO, your legs get you to 160km, your stomach, your bum, and more importantly, your brain, gets you the rest of the way. There are many people that are much more knowledgeable about periodization and load and tapering and and and than me, they can chip in there. As someone that got through the Cradle one in 49h42m on two weeks' notice, having not ridden a triple digit distance in the nine preceeding months, where a lot of guys and gals that were fitter / stronger / better kitted than me didn't, I can tell you that their minds, bums or stomachs gave out not their legs. What I can advise is to be sure to know your body. How does it feel when you drink too little, what happens when you only drink water or juice? What makes you naar or bloated when you eat it, how often should you eat? Be ready to get along with mostly just normal food and water, maybe an Energade. If you can only function (or, to be honest, think you can only function) with a specific brand's specific flavour of specific supplement you're gonna have a *** time no matter how fit you are. Also, no matter how well fitted you are to your bike something is gonna hurt somewhere. Be that as it may, you should be able to sit and pedal with occasional out of the saddle easy grinds for 3-4 hours without your hands or bum or neck or whatever feeling sore. If that's the case, adjust your fit or contact surfaces to remedy it well in advance. Also be very aware that riding a 3 hour 947 and a 3 hour off road dawdle have very different demands on your body. Taking slower / easier rides means you end up putting more weight through your sitbones vs. supporting your weight with your legs during harder pedaling. Choose a rough route and sit and pedal, easy, for 3-5 hours without stopping. Don't touch a piece of tarmac. If there's no trail or path, ride in the unkept veld at the side of the road until you get to your chosen piece of gravel. Don't sprint, don't wheelie, don't do a little bit of threshold work, just sit and pedal and feel what it feels like.

I'm planning a drop bar conversion on my STR and need some help. Don't want to spend an arm and a leg, so I found these calipers: https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/mountain-bike-brakes/475890/mechanic-disc-calliperbrand-new Anyone used these before? If they're MTB specific they'll be long pull, so standard rim brake brifters won't work well as far as google has taught me. Any solve for this someone's come up with? Currently running a mix of Shimano hydro brakes and GX 11spd derailleur, so I'm planning on buying a bar end friction shifter to handle shifting and then the cable brakes + cheap road brifters just for braking. Seems it should work out the cheapest. Alternative is to find a set of Shimano 11spd hydro brifters and change the derailleur. Should be able to keep the cassette and chain at least but it'll be spendy. If anyone has any suggestions or any of the above they're looking to part with gooi a DM my way.

I'm actually planning a trip out there this weekend with a buddy. Last time I rode there it was with a 29+ trail hardtail... Now it'll be a rigid steel bike. Lets see how that goes! At least it has a dropper, which I sorely missed last time. Looking at the new markers, are the blue portions still optional like they always were? I found most of them too tough to ride with my feeble skills (the climbs, anyway, downs I could handle). The long climb with the paved extension to the Thaba Eco Hotel is still one of my favourite climbs in GP.

I've been peer pressured by a buddy into riding this. I had wanted to, but the entry seemed a bit too spendy. Lets hope its worth it! After the Grit Cradle I'm longing for some North West gravel again. Riding buddy is pretty fit and on a top spec Grail, so Tennisball and I are going to be doing our best to keep up.

I'm still down for one if its still happening. Or even a group buy from the states.

I'm the opposite. I need to be back by 05:30/05:45 ideally, so most group rides start and finish too late for me. Rides usually start at 04:10 regardless of day. I can ride to Modderfontein, do a big loop, ride back and still catch my family in PJs having clocked ~100k before 09:30. I have little interest in sitting and shooting the **** with a bunch of semi-rando's for an hour in the middle of a 70k ride that only starts at 0700.

I'm in the same boat as you, since we're in the same general area. I'm generally not fussed and ride solo 99% of the time, but the increase in reports have me a bit nervous. As much as I enjoy the social aspect of group riding, the inconvenience and inflexibility it brings frustrates me. Still, went out with the group this morning rather and had a good time (being the only MTB in a quick roadie group is always fun to me).

I'll throw my hat in the ring for a set of 2.35 Rekon Races too. Running my on Rapide 25mm IW rims and they're the perfect shape to me, not too squared off, but not too bulbous and unsupported. Keep in mind I chose these to have minimal rolling resistance, but not be as fragile as an Aspen. So far I've enjoyed them, pretty comfy, but haven't given them a lot of trail time on more challenging features, so their durability is still to be tested in rougher conditions. I have found the grip, if leant over far enough, to be adequate. I'm of the opinion though that cornering grip has as much to do with your technique as it does the tyre. I also can't be arsed to shell out R1200 for a Schwalbe RacingSpeedSuperInsanoGripSlip V2.3 tyre to save 5W of rolling resistance.

I was about to compliment you on your 26er gravel bike being trés chic, until I saw the 64cm frame size and realized it was 700c... I'd have to mount that bike like this badass

I spent 1500km on the saddle (1/3rd of which being one ride) that comes on the Scout and can comfortably state (lolpun) that its supremely butt-friendly. Not the prettiest, but my bum loved its semi-spongy goodness. A hell of a lot more comfortable than the Ryder Force I'm running now at the same price.

Your images aren't loading. Any way you could reupload them? I'm quite keen to see it.

I had the 11 speed, so can't really comment as that had a 42/42 climbing gear. Keep in mind though that the 650B wheels effectively have lower gearing than a 29er wheel. So 42/28 will feel a little easier on the 650B wheels that it would on a 29er. As a test put your MTB in a32/22 and see how it goes. Rigids climb way more efficiently than any form of suspension though, so it'll feel even easier than that. DO IT! If you don't like it you could always just sell it to me for R2k less as a school fee...

Yup. I rode all of our local trail centers on my gravel bikes. Rook was a little more adept due to the larger volume tyres and the less aggressive geometry. The only portion I was noticeably slower was on rough descents. Hell I even jumped it, but that was a little scary.

Hell, I owned one, and I still find myself on that site at least once a week. I somehow think that if I keep staring at it they might put it on some special that forces me to buy another one... Good thing to keep in mind. 650B gravel bike tyres are hens teeth most of the time (I ended up riding a mullet setup with 48c/43c F/R due to availability). If you ride a mix of road and offroad, and your offroad rides are mostly district road / gravel road / singletrack a gravel bike is a great option. Being slow and inefficient when riding on the road is a drag (excuse the pun), while being slow and underbiked on a trail is, to me, as much if not more fun. So for me, who commutes 20+km to trails and back on the road, the gravel bike makes the ride there and back just as fun as the trail ride itself.