D Vader

Have both LT and short travel posts on Tandem ( Hardtail mtb tandem so both stoker and pilot), been very good, weight adjustment inserts work well. Pricey and a bit heavy but pretty good.

I've had to do this hundreds of times when my commute route had a lot of glass. Really the easiest thing in the world. Use the 4mm plugs, and keep one ready as previously stated. No need to add glue, and I have never needed to twist the tool when plug is in. More plugs for bigger holes, have used up to 6 big plugs on a big cut and still got home. Carry plenty of spare plugs, one dumb rocky descent ( and under-inflated), I used all 12 plugs I had after taking tyre off and plugging from inside. Still managed to bomb it and got home ( which was several hrs away) No need to cut away tails on plug. 2nd best invention after tubeless.

Design 4 but Loong sleeves.What is it with the 'help-my-sterk-lyk' trend?, I thought we were in the lower body industry. Better year-round use and less skincancer

You can get an electric conversion kit advertised at the 94.7 expo for about R 3000-00. This was a 1000watt motor ( usually 200-250) with a large( 48V) Li polymer battery ( so light). This thing goes like stink, makes almost no sound ( unlike that very crude engine) and will cost you less than 2cents per km . There are many very good electric bikes out there, just start looking .

Do a search on You tube for tubeless road conversion, interesting video. I've done this conversion but I do find that you may need a plastic 29er rimstrip, add an extra washer to the tubeless valve, and make sure it is really tight so that you can get the pressure over 6bar. I used Gatorskins, but their sidewalls are rather porous, so be sure to use a thin ( eg Stans) sealant. +/- bulletproof.Normal rims are fine. Don't listen to the theoretical excuses as to why this can't work, it does, try it. Good luck

DON'T USE TUBES!! Even on a roadbike Or use them if you like the expense and repeated hassle.

Thanks!

The nipples on my 29er ( Hardtail) rear wheel keep breaking. I don't think they are over-tightened. Am I too heavy ( 82kg)? Hope not. These are alumin nipples. Are they too soft? What is a better/stronger and reasonably affordable option? And no I have not tried milkbalm or vitE cream.

Have Sansa fuze 4gb, worksa treat! But just PLEASE DO NOT use during a race, I could not get 3 guys ( 3 occassions) to here us coming up the outside on th 94.7, this is a D@mn problem on a tandem going 70 or 80 and then having to cut into group traffic.

We are riding in the same group as last year, and yet our starting time is almost an hour later ( 54 minutes) The heat was a real problem last year and unless the weather smiles on us this year could be even worse. Look at Van Gaalens mtb. I take it the organisers have made the gaps between the groups bigger, but this safety reason seems to be creating other safety problems. My wife had initially decided not to do this race when we received our start times ( she had mild heatstroke last year), we're on a tandem, and this would have cost me a lot in preparation time cycle costs etc. just because the start time was later. The people who take a long time to finish this race will now spend even more time in the hottest part of the day. Come on organizers!! We love this race and I would not like to miss it in years to come.

Don't use Speed services, I'm still waiting for a saddle which should have arrived 2weeks ago.

Fi'zik Rondine 155mm wide, but I doubt you'll find one here.

You can make almost any tyre tubeless, the rims are more an issue but unless it is the nastiest cheapie it is doable. Don't know if you get tubeless specific ( like UST) slicks

Style is for fragile little egos. Get a set of Conti catorskins, size 26" and 1.5" wide, pump them up to at least 6 bar. They are pretty bulletproof and very low rollresistance. You then would'nt need to change anything else for now. You'll run out of gears on the mtb but the ride will be a lot easier. If you are fit and strong and want to impress then stay on the mtb tyres. Nevermind that we are watching you, Dave.

I've done an ENDO on our hardtail mtb tandem, it ended all the way over though.very rough, rocky steep terrain. Picture falling over a wheelbarrow while carrying another wheelbarrow. But as said , you,d be amazed where you can go with these.

Nice pics I've done this conversion for several bikes, with a variation. Cut normal ducttape in 1/2 ( do it while still on the roll, easier)and stick this on as rimtape. No need to put the whole tube in, save weight, you only need a thin strip running along the rim, with a bit wider to hold the valve in place. No need for soapy water, in my experience. Stans/ Joes works by far the best, have tried everything including motorbike sealants. 1 bomb has always sealed it for me,( primarily need it for the rapid expansion to seat the bead) but the Co2 seems to react with the Sealant so it is actually better to use a compressor/garage. I've even converted normal 700c Gatorskins to tubeless ( bit tricky to get the tubeless valve to seal over 5bar) Tubes are great for lighting braai fire in emergency ( they don't smoke)and good for tying things down or protecting bikerack.

I've been given some unflavoured 32Gi sachets and I really really prefer this option. Used Hammer unflavoured before for this reason, as I get sick of a particular taste, even if it is 'pleasant' at the start of a bottle. These unflavoured 32Gi sachets have a very light sweet taste, but almost nothing. I'd like the other Hubbers to ask their local supplier for these ( obviously only if your in the market) so that we can create enough of a demand for the manufacturer to make these readily available.I've been very pleased with this product! And I am not affiliated to the company.

Yeeah!! Love mine.Very versatile, low maintenace. Goes uphill by itself.

R259 for 700gr Biogen L-Glutamine at Dischem on special Thats about 50% less than you paid at Clicks

I had a similar problem with new XT freewheel body. I'd only had the bike for about 2 weeks. Be sure you have the correct XT freewheel body, more than one XT model freewheelbody available ( sorry, probably an obvious statement, but possible). I had a hard time getting a 14 allen key to remove and replace it. I bought two spare bodies ( about R600 each)and took them along on the Joberg2c, but I have not needed them. Get someone like JB to check this out for you.

You can put normal 700c road tyres on your 29er, I did it for the D2D, it worked very well.I used Conti Gatorskins I also put a 48 chainring on the front( 11 to 34 cassette), keeping it on as it works perfectly. This was done on a tubeless rim with the Bontrager rimstrip still inside, no problems. The only cost was the effort, as I already had the tyres and tubes. If you care too much about looking nerdish, get a roadbike, otherwise, wear lycra and a smile, you'll go faster. Oh, the Gatorskins were 25 wide , but I have used 23 before.

You seatbones obviously need to be the right distance apart, but I have a Gobi and I noticed you need to be very sure of your seat angle or body angle to get the right fit on the seat, try making your profile a bit more aggressive or tilting the seat Very Slightly forward. I found this to work for me.

I've also shifted to twist X.O , from XT, so far , very happy. Front deraill could be easier, but the rear deraill is magic. Could do with easier fine-tuning on the tension for the rear, but there the front shifter is nice in that you have something like 10 positions on the shifter, it is just that moving to middle chainring is not an absolute , so you need to get used to where it is, big and small are very easy as they are just all the way up or down in 1 move. I'm keeping my XT shifters and rear derail as a back-up, but I don't see myself going back. So, X.O are worth every bargain penny.

Aren't you guys surprised that we have not received more detailed packing guidelines from the organizers. It is surely more relevant than the route profile and other info already received. I'll try to surpress this anal boyscout tendency of mine, I'm sure it is going to be a blast.

OKO is vir my baie beter. Probeer ook enige ander wateroplosbare sealant , as dit te dik is, sit net bietjie water by. Dit spoel ook mooi skoon uit as jy moet bande ruil.