Gerhard765

Totally agree. On first Sani2C we rode top 100 each day (was on trail though not race, I am and probably will always be bufallo class.). As you say cant remember much of scenery. Got so caught up in getting a good time that you forget to enjoy it. I never once stopped to take a photo or even just to appreciate the scenery. At water points just get what you need and race off again, On my third and last sani my time was probably 1-2 hours slower each day (compared to first). Day 2 was almost 9 hours. Stopping at water points or at the top of hills just added to have an easier ride and give you time to chat with buddies and just enjoy it. That is much better for me than sowing everyone at home where your name is on the ranking board. PS,. Thanks for stopping to help others with problems. People willing to help is something I always appreciate of MTB'ing.

From what I have seen yes it can make a big difference as long as the battery lasts. Did a local 80 km race a while ago with one fairly big climb in. During the climb a bloke came racing past me as if was standing still. He was on very heavy side (guess 130-150 kg) but on the e-bike he raced past most people up that climb. From what I understand, you can adjust the power from the bikes battery. Lower setting will mean longer power (or distance) but will require more effort from the rider. For very high setting you get a lot of power from the bike but after 20 or 30 km (guess) battery is flat and you have to provide all the power yourself, which you don't want as e-bikes are on the heavy side. If I can get swambo interested in cycling I will try to get her an e-bike that we can ride together at my pace.

Only done sani three times. BnB is on my list for when I can. Sani was dry everytime with little to no rain. Based on the comments I would say just flip a coin.

As with most things it all depends. Minimum is a mountain bike, waterbottle and a helmet. I have seen a few okes doing longer races like 40 km just with normal pedals and tekkies. You can perhaps elaborate more on what you are aiming for. Is it a specific race, or a specific type of race you want to do (like the Nissan trailseeker 70 km marathon or such). It gives other people a better idea of how to help you. Budget is also important, especially if you still need to buy a bike.

No. I agree with most guys above, maybe spend a bit more on a hardtail (Titan or similar) which is a decent bike and can last you for a lot of km's. Also consider 2nd hand. You sometimes get a good buy if you keep your eyes open. A danger of buying a "starter bike" for mtb'ing is that you want to see if you enjoy it without investing a lot on a bike. Unfortunately these entry level bikes are so primitive that they are no fun on anything other than perfect tarmac. I would not take something like that to a local trail...

Some suppliers have different names for screws. Standard for button head is ISO 7380. Seems that M5x8 is a standard size but not everyone might stock it. Try to get a stainless steel fastener if possible (either A2 or A4).

OK of the three screws on your photo, the right one adjust how snug the derailleur is to the cassette. Of the two left screws, the top one adjust bottom limit (smallest gear), the bottom screw adjusts top limit (biggest gear). I never pay attention to the names but the B screw is the one on the right i believe, adjusting how close the derailleur is to the cassette. From this angle the derailleur can move much closer to the cassette. Just check it properly over the whole range after you adjust it.

Ok I don't have an e-bike, but based on the weight of an e-bike and my fat ass, I cant believe that the use of tires are different than for normal bikes. The Maxxis Forecasters I have on my Scott is working very well. I cant say that the grip is higher than other tires, but i have not felt that it needs more grip yet (i reckon i ride fairly aggressively on technical sections). I must say i prefer not to ride through a lot of mud because of the cleaning required afterwards. ITO wear, it is reasonable to expect faster wear if you fit an electric motor, especially on rear tire as you can put higher shear forces through it for longer times due to the motor assist.

Agree, also in my experience for the same price i will definitely go for the air shock option first if there is one.

Bloody hell.

Did not even know you get pedals for over R3000.... I have been using Shimano M540 pedals for a few years now. Very happy with it. With excessive mud, they sometimes struggle to clip in, but it happens so seldom that its not an issue for me.

Sorry but reliable repair not possible. Replace as other guys already said.

Waiting eagerly for more info

Hi there, looking at the two options and I would rather go for the silverback. At prices so low also consider second hand. Keep your eyes open and you occasionally spot a good bargain.

Please just keep an eye on it and make sure it does not worsen. With cracks longer is not better. If you have cracks all round and one or two pull through on a ride it may give you a sudden stop. Based on your weight and the cracks I agree with you. Spokes were over-tightened.