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Gerhard765

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Everything posted by Gerhard765

  1. Totally agree. On first Sani2C we rode top 100 each day (was on trail though not race, I am and probably will always be bufallo class.). As you say cant remember much of scenery. Got so caught up in getting a good time that you forget to enjoy it. I never once stopped to take a photo or even just to appreciate the scenery. At water points just get what you need and race off again, On my third and last sani my time was probably 1-2 hours slower each day (compared to first). Day 2 was almost 9 hours. Stopping at water points or at the top of hills just added to have an easier ride and give you time to chat with buddies and just enjoy it. That is much better for me than sowing everyone at home where your name is on the ranking board. PS,. Thanks for stopping to help others with problems. People willing to help is something I always appreciate of MTB'ing.
  2. From what I have seen yes it can make a big difference as long as the battery lasts. Did a local 80 km race a while ago with one fairly big climb in. During the climb a bloke came racing past me as if was standing still. He was on very heavy side (guess 130-150 kg) but on the e-bike he raced past most people up that climb. From what I understand, you can adjust the power from the bikes battery. Lower setting will mean longer power (or distance) but will require more effort from the rider. For very high setting you get a lot of power from the bike but after 20 or 30 km (guess) battery is flat and you have to provide all the power yourself, which you don't want as e-bikes are on the heavy side. If I can get swambo interested in cycling I will try to get her an e-bike that we can ride together at my pace.
  3. Only done sani three times. BnB is on my list for when I can. Sani was dry everytime with little to no rain. Based on the comments I would say just flip a coin.
  4. As with most things it all depends. Minimum is a mountain bike, waterbottle and a helmet. I have seen a few okes doing longer races like 40 km just with normal pedals and tekkies. You can perhaps elaborate more on what you are aiming for. Is it a specific race, or a specific type of race you want to do (like the Nissan trailseeker 70 km marathon or such). It gives other people a better idea of how to help you. Budget is also important, especially if you still need to buy a bike.
  5. No. I agree with most guys above, maybe spend a bit more on a hardtail (Titan or similar) which is a decent bike and can last you for a lot of km's. Also consider 2nd hand. You sometimes get a good buy if you keep your eyes open. A danger of buying a "starter bike" for mtb'ing is that you want to see if you enjoy it without investing a lot on a bike. Unfortunately these entry level bikes are so primitive that they are no fun on anything other than perfect tarmac. I would not take something like that to a local trail...
  6. Some suppliers have different names for screws. Standard for button head is ISO 7380. Seems that M5x8 is a standard size but not everyone might stock it. Try to get a stainless steel fastener if possible (either A2 or A4).
  7. OK of the three screws on your photo, the right one adjust how snug the derailleur is to the cassette. Of the two left screws, the top one adjust bottom limit (smallest gear), the bottom screw adjusts top limit (biggest gear). I never pay attention to the names but the B screw is the one on the right i believe, adjusting how close the derailleur is to the cassette. From this angle the derailleur can move much closer to the cassette. Just check it properly over the whole range after you adjust it.
  8. Ok I don't have an e-bike, but based on the weight of an e-bike and my fat ass, I cant believe that the use of tires are different than for normal bikes. The Maxxis Forecasters I have on my Scott is working very well. I cant say that the grip is higher than other tires, but i have not felt that it needs more grip yet (i reckon i ride fairly aggressively on technical sections). I must say i prefer not to ride through a lot of mud because of the cleaning required afterwards. ITO wear, it is reasonable to expect faster wear if you fit an electric motor, especially on rear tire as you can put higher shear forces through it for longer times due to the motor assist.
  9. Agree, also in my experience for the same price i will definitely go for the air shock option first if there is one.
  10. Did not even know you get pedals for over R3000.... I have been using Shimano M540 pedals for a few years now. Very happy with it. With excessive mud, they sometimes struggle to clip in, but it happens so seldom that its not an issue for me.
  11. Sorry but reliable repair not possible. Replace as other guys already said.
  12. Hi there, looking at the two options and I would rather go for the silverback. At prices so low also consider second hand. Keep your eyes open and you occasionally spot a good bargain.
  13. Please just keep an eye on it and make sure it does not worsen. With cracks longer is not better. If you have cracks all round and one or two pull through on a ride it may give you a sudden stop. Based on your weight and the cracks I agree with you. Spokes were over-tightened.
  14. Ok I am not familiar with the specific shock you are referring to. In general any suspension is a balance between the mass it supports (rider weight), spring rate and damper. Changing any of the three will have an effect on how the shock performs. In your case it sounds like the increased spring rate is more than what the damper can damp out according to what you need it to do. A more restrictive damper should get the rebound more to what you need.
  15. Not familiar with Marzocchi's, will definitely check it out. - Ok i honestly did not think you could buy an oil shock for almost 20k. Seems that oils shock are more in use than i believe(d). I maybe should have elaborated/ mentioned that the statement is made with reference to what the OP requires for the budget he has available and what is generally available in shops./
  16. I prefer to take my own coffee along for rides. Struggling to get the shops to serve Frisco.
  17. Without going in to too much details - Generally an air shock is better than coil shock. Such that a bottom of the range air shock out-perform a top of the range coil shock (dont even know if there is something like a top of the range coil shock anymore). Brands do play a factor - Rockshox and Fox is what I would typically consider. I see that more and more of the entry level bikes are using SR suntour shocks. If these come with a decent warranty and you can just check some reviews it is worth giving it a shot. As you say you are not looking for very rough terrain. My first bike had a coil shock (Rockshox Tora if i recall) which seized up totally after about 6 months of fairly intensive riding on the local trails in Pretoria. Might be an isolated case, i don't know. I would also support robbybzgo's recommendation.
  18. Hairy , I am not familiar with brazing as a structural joint. Not saying it cant work, i just have no experience with it. Worthwhile maybe trying it for a start as welding can still be a second option if the brazing is insufficient?
  19. Thanks TNT. 1 I cant understand ( he says with his cup of coffee balanced on his boepens). Am a bit on the heavier side so having a slightly heavier bike is not an issue as I have quite a bit more weight to lose. I see it as motivation even if it doesn't help. 2 - Can agree 3. Understandable.
  20. Hi TNT, just out of curiosity - I hear a few people making that comment. Can you maybe elaborate why? I can agree cable activated disc brakes is not on the standard of hydraulic brakes but cant see why it would be worse than rim brakes? I mean the working surface of rim brakes gets close to the ground and water of so makes your brakes basically non-existent. Is there some problems with it some people has experienced which is not as predictable?
  21. Do you have some photos to share? Some places are easier to fix than others. For steel frame, it is possible to do at home with an arc welder IF you know what you are doing. For getting someone to do it I would really recommend looking at engineering shops with Coded welders. They normally have decent welding facilities. Just make sure that they are using something like TIG welders (skill required on TIG welders is a bit higher than on others like ARC and MIG and you generally get better quality welding from them. After a weld repair it really helps if you dress the weld lightly with something like a flapper disc on baby grinder. Just to smooth out the surface. Welded repairs are more prone to start cracking again if there are local notches or surface defects. And keep an eye on it -weld repair should only be seen as temporary fixes. Definitely just ask them to weld a sample for you before touching the bike. You do not want to have someone show you they cant really weld on you bike frame. I once worked with a guy who tore up the tin foil his lunch was packed in and welded them back together.
  22. Seems that the rattling of the towbar is more an issue from others than for me. The bolt on the side of my removable towbar is adjusted to keep snug but loose. Still some movement but cant even say that i have ever heard noise of either towing a trailer or using a bike rack. Noise from trailer hitch on towbal would also probably be more.
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