Headshot

If you want strength ignore the conti's unless they've strengthened them this year. Great tyres but a far cry in sidewall strenth to Maxxis tubeless. Im running a Xmark 2.2 at the back and a Maxxis Ignitor 2.35 on the front. So far so good but a heavier set up than the Conti's.

Okay, so you have no clue as to whether he was cormering well or badly. The poor cornering comment was just some exaggeration from your side to add to the general hysteria about the plonker?

So now you are the expert on car cornering - thought you'd never speed or drive dangerously? Pray tell how he should have handled those twisties?

Okay, will listen again. Not at all - in fact the average speed on Rhodes is either 60 or less and its often packed with cars so I'd suggest somehwere else. Its also too narrow and has no run off areas and deep rain gutters at the side which make both driving and riding a bike hazardous. I ride my mtb on the gravel at the side - may have been hit by trucks by now if i hadn't. By all means go to a track or do an advanced driving course to learn what you and your car can do. As I said less hysteria about one oke - he isnt the devil, just one of many we face.

Mike and Woofie...

One hand on the wheel the other holding the Kodak? - what a moment...

Mike, I'm not arguing with the illegality of this twits actions. Thing is we take our lives in our hands every time we drive or ride. The vast majority of accidents are not caused by blokes like this but by slack non concentrating people who belive a car is solely a conveyance and havent the first idea about how to drive or the laws of physics that govern the process. Rhodes drive has the odd jogger but its no pedestrian thoroughfare. I couldnt hear tyre noise in the corners so chances are he wasnt anyhwere near track speed on the bends. 180 on a near deserted straight with a perfect tar surface - crazy illegal speed but not nearly as dangerous as you claim - its also an uphill. Worn tyres - you make much of that and seem to read in that he was driving treadless tyres with steel showing. I wonder. My 2c - less hysteria and indignation at one tjop and more realism required.

Lets assume this guy is a car fanatic road racer type. Judging by what I have seen it looks as if he does spend time on the track and for all we know hemay even be a good driver. I drive Rhodes Drive and ride on parts of it quite regularly. I've never seen him blasting around there, so your supposed reason 'to warn cyclists" is probably a waste of time. Whats far more dangerous on that raod are the ever so slow moving wide busses and trucks and taxis drivers who are half asleep and who just don't give a ****. In my experience, as a driver, the faster I go the harder I concentrate, so I argue that this fool is probably the last person you need to worry about hitting someone...The person who knocked me off my bike was an innexperienced student. The bloke who almost T boned me just below Rhodes drive when out in my car was driving a bakkie and just didnt look. A maniac and illegal yes, but the person you need to warn everyone about - not even close.

Removed one of these from my girlfriends Schwinn and put on my old F100. She is very grateful - the bike weighs nearly 1 kg less and the fork - altho 5 years old and abit worn is 1000% better. Those things are real boat anchors and stiction is huge. The problem is they have no lube system like fox and RS forks but are built to look like them ie no dust boots. If they had those, they'd stay stiction free for longer but in my experience, even if you use some fork oil on the seals, stiction builds up fast. Greasing the insides will prolly help - but the weight - its huge! Anyone want the old Suntour fork by the way - minimal use, a few scratches and lots of stiction. Offers?

Check hanger - this is typical bent hanger stuff. Replace cable - do the one piece outer conversion - its easy and you never have to worry about poor shifing due to gungy cables again.. Outside chance - rear wheel not aligned properly in dropouts - that puts the casette at the wrong ange to chain. It does happen - had to sort my g/f's shifting and no adjustment would work until I reset the wheel.

Was about to say with that curvy back - reminds me of a dawg tryna press a putty with difficulty

Coke is poison anyway man - rather drink water and eat some nuts

The weightloss Serioulsy tho - if the fork seems too hard, play with the pressure there is no hard and fast rule. If you dont smack into boulder gardens and drops too often you can run it softer at the risk of the occasional bottom out.

The lever has the cable lock mechanism in it so it may require adjustment (unlikely) or may have failed internally in which case a new poploc lever and cable will be necessary

what about teh R30 buck entry fee to ride - is any of that getting plouged back in to maintain the trails?

Keep the Fox - that said, I am a recent RS convert - they are damn good and cheaper.Buy another bike for teh spare fork

Stop showing off

The Zula should be dead easy to set up in the rear shock department - far easier thana linkage or VPP design and I doubt you'll need lock out - mono-pivots hardly bob in my experience.

He and KV are deep in negotiation for extra space in the pro's area for the transfusion ambulance that will be following him...

Just being a twit myself. I think 29ers will rule one day - they'll make everything lighter still, and eventually the downside will be all but cancelled out. That said, I aint gonna bother to get a new bike just because the bike co's want me too...

That is one fuggggly bike from the colour to the fork to the branding

Reaaallly scientific CS - twit indeed. Its great scores of twits will buy the "I too can ride 10secs faster like CS on a 29 inch penny farthing" and will sell their lovely 26' bikes. We can all buy them. Am looking for a nice light 26" 5' travel trail bike. Anyone?

Great a new duster for the furniture in a really expensive carrying case

Several months since i did mine and still shifting beautifuly - best upgrade you can do on any mtb bike.....