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Thanks the second one looks perfect

At the risk of being flamed for wanting the most out of my fork and heaven forbid, playing with the settings, does anyone have a link to a pictorial of how this is done. My brand new Reba arrived set at 100mm. From what I can gather, you need to strip the fork i.e remove the lowers from the stanchions and remove a spacer or two. I am reluctant to start this without a decent bit of info on how its done.

Yes, I carry a mini solar compressor, computerised wifi pressure gauge and soil moisture and hardness probe. I stop every 50m to vary tyre pressure and shock settings. I am last back to the car as a result.

Mampy - you jest surely or have never ridden a Fox. Its as easy as leaning forward and gently tirning the ergonomically shaped and easy turning red knob while riding. Maybe you'd be faster if you played a bit more and got the most out of your suspension, or maybe you should just go rigid

oh and thanks for the opinions guys

Just collected mine from CWC - looks good and feels light. Lots of adjustment. Only downer is the rebound is on the bottom of the leg instead of up top like my Fox. i usualy play with the rebound on a ride - fas t for fast bumpy sections and slow it up for climbing. Not so easy now. Cant have it all i guess and the pop loc will be a nice feature As far as the floodgate adjustment is concerned - WTF is it? How doe you adjust the travel and does it come std at 120 mm - bit hard to tell...Instructions seem generic installation instructions. Will try da net.

Am thinking of buying one - Id like the 120 mm travel and my g/f could really use my F100 which is getting long in the tooth. Is it a durable trouble free fork that works well?

Applied in march 2008. Received my competency a month or so back and just picked up the actual licence today. Wynberg CT SAPS are very good but the actual applications are dealt with in Pta. I had no problems securing my handgun licence for self defence. Seems like there is no consistency as my circs are the same as thousands of others. Be aware the licence and competency is only for five years and you have to renew at least 90 days before they expire.

if I am not mistaken these earlier treks were not rated at all well in the suspension dept - a far cry from the latest ones. Flexy and so on. i'd give it a miss, unless he pays you

They are shitty. My g/f has one similar on her Schwinn - its sticky and creaky and not very responsive - and heavy as a chevy.

A seriously upsetting incident - just like the headons taxi's keep having with eachother and trucks .... Condolences to the families. Hope our little driver does some hard time for this. The parents need to do a lot of explaining....

So its a lube and named after some women's fragrance - (TM infringement maybe ) Buts whats in it that makes it so much better? As far as I am concerned all lubes are snake oil for the claims that are made about them. Hell maybe I should use Prolong on my chain ane be done with it.. Come on - lets get technical...

Go for 34 unless you are a superdude like Bos. I find it useful because I dont ride every day so not that fit and my bike weighs 13kg - remember this is MTB not road riding - you can almost always use a lower gear...

I disagree - sell your hard tail - its over - its time to move on. I know its hard, but every affair has to end, especially if you've married a Giant - you have a soft spot for your soft tail now, after all. It will be better that way....

Managed to avoid nearly all the mud - not that theres a lot around at the mo The first Raceking - the one with the tumour has miraculously healed itself - it was obvioulsy air trapped between the inner layer and the tread. I have put it back on and so far no bubble, but not holding my breath. Yes, the quick flat I had yesterday could have been dangerous - luckily I noticed the air loss and could stop before damage occurred. Conti will just say a sharp object penetrated the tyre - normal riding incident - can't disprove that so i'll try and repair the tear instead...

Stans sealant. Must admit I have never had this problem with Maxxis Larsens and Xmarks tyres and Stans although to be fair one did fail after taking a sidewall hit from a rock - it was plenty old by then tho. I am going to surgically remove the stans tumour and fill use puncture glue on teh rea to seal the hole and teh delamination - will see how it goes...

Rant mode on Just got back from a nice 40km round trip from home to the Silvermine gate and back. Nearly didnt make it home because my nearly new (in km terms) Raceking rear tyre let go half way down the main downhill. Not a mark on the rim, no ding, so no major impact,but it split just above the beading. This tyre has more than 70% tread left and is perfect in every other respect. No sign of a foreign object in the hole but I cant rule that out. Had just come down a rocky section so maybe something happened then, but strange that there was no sign of an impact on the rim at that point. I didnt have enough sealant in the tyre (long story - see below) to see whether that would have blocked the hole, but I fear not. I have another Raceking in the cupboard awaiting surgery on a tread tumour caused by it delaminating and the sealant forming a nice hard lump below the tread. This I discovered while away for the weekend and without extra sealant to top up the spare tyre I put on. So thats 2x Racekings with plenty of tread that have been damaged/failed in circumstances I'd expect a mtb tyre to survive. The first ones failure is due to some kind of delamination, maybe after an impact, the second, who knows. Either way, I don't think that they are fit to be called MTB tyres. Its a pity - they grip and roll beautifully - I was waxing lyrical to my girlfriend about the grip earlier in the ride .... Am I mad to expect my tyres to last better than they do - 500km or less? Imagine if our car tyres delaminated and developed holes at the drop of a hat. Our mtb tyres cost far more than a car tyre if you look at the amount of material involved and yet they last a fraction of the distance. Okay, that feels better. Any suggestions on repairs for my dud tyres?

I also have an 8 spd Ht and 9 speed FS bike. The difference is noticeable but thats down to the fact that overall I geared the HT up to ride it on the road. The front rings are large and it lacks the low gear climbing ability of the FS. I think that with the right gear ratio's for the kind of riding you're doing you'll hardly notice the difference between 8-9-10.

what can I say, I have too little free time to waste it on cleaning bikes and replacing trashed components. Gimme a 35deg day in the Karoo over mud anyday B)

No I stay in bed when its wet and cold and ride round the mud puddles when at all possible;)

You could also consider avoiding bikes with gazillions of pivots and buying a tried and tested monopivot design like the Morewood Zula or SC Sperlight. I have a Raleigh mono-pivot - 5 years on I've not had to replace any bushes or bearings yet. Then again I dont ride every day and avoid mud when I can. Generally though, you'd have less maintenance the simpler suspension system withouit sacfricing much if anything in performance.

Thats cool - keep us posted on service and how the new wheel performs.

You do, and mine have been fine as have my 05 shimano hubs which continue to run perfectly. If URBikepro I never take bike to you cos you full of it

Have had my XT's for several months. So far bomb proof and smooth running. I do know some people have had freehub failures with probelms getting spares from the SA agents. I weigh 83kg and have had no issues with spokes or anything else so far. They also look like they costs a lot more than R3k - which is what I paid.

It is removable - it just requires the lower edge of the bumper cut to accomodate bal and goose neck. maybe they can fit some kind of removable bit of bumper there so teh hole isnt visible when teh rack is off. Alternatively - tell him a coupe looks cool with a tow bar always on...