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27.5 with 2.6 Butchers. Don't like the tyres too much. The back rim has hardly been abused by my standards but already has several dents - not just bent at the bead, rather buckled inwards on the upper surface of the rim where the nipples are. I have never seen anything like it. One spot no longer seals the tyre bead that well unless you run the tyre super hard. Had me pumping the tyre up half way to Kloof Neck last weekend...

Yes I agree. Am thinking of a 2.4 Ardent out back for speed and a 2.5 DHR or F up front. I do think its also the wheels. The front is boost with 24 spokes and the rear 28. I reckon they flex like damp spaghetti and then there's the play in the rear hub...

I think a reason to go 26 is that BMX feeling. I'd agree on the bigger volume tyres in 27.5. I think that is what ruins my enduro bike but you can probably get away with it more on a HT. If i could I'd run 2.6 tyres on my 26er for some additional comfort although i really can't fault the 2.4s. Much of what people put down to wheel size is actually improved suspension and geometry IMO.

I just rode 130 km over 3 days on my trusty little white bike. I was up against a host of carbon marathon 29ers and some relatively fit riders. The bike has a 70mm stem to make it fit me a bit better and I haven't really noticed that it hinders me on the downs. In fact I had a blast on the treacherous Haarkappers descent which is loose and rocky. Riding it blind at speed was a rush and i never felt that the wheels or frame were outgunned. The long fork makes up for any shortcomings of a HT. When I first started riding the bike at the beginning of this year, I took a while to develop the leg strength and stamina to ride it fast on choppy trails. That curve has been learned and i hardly notice the lack of suspension even on the longer descents. The only areas I felt the lack of a rear shock was on the rocky climbs where the back wheel hooked up a bit on edges and on fast but bumpy flat bits, where I would lower my seat a tad to make the ride a bit better. The switch to fatter, faster rolling and yet grippy rubber in the form of Ardent 2.4s has taken nothing away from its descending performance and aided traction and comfort on climbs and in the rough. This is all good news and I love the bike even more than ever but the downside is it has made me dislike my long travel enduro bike a bit. Riding it after the three days on the HT really shone a spotlight on the shortcomings of the big bike. 1. Weight 2. pedal efficiency 3. lack of playfulness 4. lack of precision in the cornering and steering department. Some of these things can be addressed but not without dropping a wad of cash on new wheels and rubber. I also think it needs to be ridden in really rough terrain and at speeds which start becoming dangerous so maybe its my Tokai and JH bike and I must keep it off the mellower stuff where my HT excels.

Some old school 26" action.

And there lies the important part - preload. After the repair, the hub in question felt great when the cassette was off - tighten the SRAM cassette back on and it seems to load up the outer bearing in the free hub which becomes as notchy as anything. Some tapping on the axle seemed to help a bit, but I now have no faith whatsoever in this hub. Poor show Spaz. Any other suggestions Droo?

Just a quick reality check - this is MTB and rear wheels in particular take a beating. Ever watched the WC DH behind the scenes videos - the mechanics are forever lacing up new wheels because some only last one run. I'm in no way saying that the rim cracks described are acceptable especially after 1000km, but Saffers are pretty big boned. That said, I have had extremely good service from Stans original Flow rims - they are as tough as nails. Compared to the rubbish soft alloy Rovals I have on one bike, they are indestructible. I suspect Stans simply went too wide and too light with the latest versions.

Sounds like a real good plan #bro.

I am not a member and have not ridden all the trails available, but those I have are quite special. I know Hoogekraal well and have ridden the Welvergenoegd loop. While I enjoy the trails, they aren't my favourite simply because I prefer stuff that has more line choices and is more natural. For that i have the Tokai and the Green Belts which are also far cooler places to ride in Summer and on my doorstep. The terrain in the area lends itself to bermed singe track, unlike other rockier areas. TBMBC is an amazing facility close to the City and the recent add ons like the skill park are a bonus. I have been told I need to try Bloemendal and do the XC loop and jumps. That's on the cards one evening soon.

I used clear silicon to glue up a leak at the hose fitting at the bottom of my Dakine packs bladder. Has lasted for ages already.

Yes, its amazing what stories the industry comes up with to explain rubbish design or manufacturing quality. Bearings are now consumables like brake pads and chain lube... As I said above, my Funn hub which is a Hope knock off, is still as new after a similar period of riding to the Spaz.

I opened up the hub in question and there was no sign of water ingress or lack of grease - I avoid bike washes like the plague and its only been ridden in the wet around 3-4 times. Axle always tight too. The experience is just totally contrary to my past experiences with the hubs I refer to above, which are not expensive items at all and never gave any issues.

The learning curve on this MTB activity of ours never stops teaching you things, both technical and skills wise. I recently delved into hubs and hub servicing. It started when I noticed play in the rather budget rear hub on my Enduro's rear wheel. Play developed and a bearing or two felt worn. I eventually took it to Spaz in case there was a warranty issue as the bike only turned 1 today. No broken parts were found and a bearing was replaced and hub cleaned and greased. The shop say that rear hub bearing wear is common and some people go through them every two months. What?!?! The bike hasn't been ridden nearly as much as my previous bike as I now have two bikes - the hard tail with a Funn rear hub has covered similar km by now and the hub is silky smooth. I have a front hub that still runs without play although the bearings are slightly noisy. The matching rear hub is now doing service on its third bike and the bearings have never been changed after plenty of abuse over the last 5 years. What is your experience of hub bearing wear? Is a year or 2 months reasonable bearing life or do some hubs just wear them worse than others...

Dont forget to charge it properly or that first ride could end in tears...

I know a guy who was heavier than you. He now weighs 94kg and as he's tall he is almost a race snake. He did his first W2W last week - on a real bicycle. There is hope. Don't fall for this motorized nonsense.

I love motorbikes and also, especially, going faster than 29ers.

You see, this is what happens to us when these things are allowed out. Their owners pretend they are cyclists but in fact are very different. I like the analogy of a guy with a hang glider trying to outfly iron man. The only time you have a chance is when the battery goes flat.

There is always sabotage !!!

I admit to feeling irritated when the lady and her partner cruised past me on a climb because they had motor assistance. I think eBikes should be used on eBike only trails. Like roads.

That is a hairs breadth from being full moto.

Yep - My HT build was a straight swop from my previous bike - bargain!

I think the most ludicrous thing is how that road bike looks, well like a normal road bike (mechanical doping anyone?). At least most eMTBs dont fool anyone.

No come on - I hate them all :-) I think this thread is long because its fun. Its so easy to get a rise out of an eBike lover and vice versa.

That bike is very cool - looks like the cousin of my On One. The fat tyres are a good idea. The Maxxis 2.4s on mine are also nice and big, but probably not quite as fat as the Conti's. #26aintdead