Canaris

thank you, just asking

very nice, but grey or light brown will replace the white after the first wash. ps has the EL at the end of Nokusa got religious meaning as in Isra-el, ext?

THe amount of white in your kit is directly proportional to the size of your teams sponsorship. Either that or the strength of your wife's washing powder. I mean even SURF does not sponsor a white MTB cycling kit.

you get mongoose and then you get MONGOOSE THe canaan and the metoer (MIne and slowpokes rides) are very sweet. THE price is also one of the best of the market. I cannot talk for the Tyrax which you get at Sportsman's warehouse. Best advice if the groupo is not Deore or better, it just not good enough.

But, conveyor belt in a vaseline factory, was classic, we wouldn't have got it otherwise so KY jelly is still okay? Cleans disc brakes like a charm.

Correction Johan' date=' it's called Wild Waters and its situated in Boksburg. [/quote'] and a rave held there gave us vernon koekemoer. Wild waters still going strong, does the wave pool still work?? Going back to the tyre (or is it tires) direction thread.... BEST advice is to install it as per the manufactures recomendation arrows or whatever... Remember doing a race once (Karkloof classic) and while standing on the start line pointed out to one of my subvet racing mates/competitors that his front tyre was installed the wrong way (tyre direction arrow was pointing backwards)... Needless to say he had a terrible race and complained that he felt like he was loosing the front end on corners... Never under estimate the power of the mind hehe!!! talk about a reverse in performance.

maybe I should give directions?

Marius has spoken. The King of WPPPA wishes it so. Re-instate TooHot!!! just drop the exclaimation marks.

Yes that would be interpreted: Bring him back so that he can be abused further........... he's quite resilient. he got quite annoyed with me once and went away' date=' but a didn't know he was kal-el as well (say that three times quickly), who was having chick problems. [/quote'] Ya, he does seem to take quite a lot of stepping on... talking about rent boys in cape town usually finishes him off you know something I don't. What is that street name in Mowbray.....

ride partner, buddy, competition, colleague, accomplace, acquitance....

Yes that would be interpreted: Bring him back so that he can be abused further........... Aah' date=' just abuse krpton-boy, its the same twerp... [/quote'] I could handle toohot!!! he was OK in a funny (almost Marius) sort of way. Whereas Krypton-boy is not. Ps the legend, isn't he one of yours?

Yes that would be interpreted: Bring him back so that he can be abused further...........

I didn't know that. By the way what is "trolling?" "the greatest criminal mind of our time" Yeah Right, what about JZ and TM?

Yes there is. You'd want to test two things which are core to what we are discussing here: 1) Slip-out angle. It is measured as a simple angle with a given downforce. 2) Co-efficient of friction in a straight line. (It's been called grip and traction here' date=' all the same thing measured the same way. There is no unit for the coefficient of friction, it is merely a coefficient. But that's not English in your book. Forget about doing a riding test, that's just too messy. You'll have to do the tests statically. For the co-efficient of friction, I suggest you cut a piece out of your mate's directional tyre. A length of about 100mm should do the trick. Flatten it and nail it to a wooden board. Load the wooden board with a couple of bricks and attach a string to each end of the board. Now pull the board on a uniform surface with one of those fishing scales and get a reading. Pull it from the other side and get another reading. Do that several times, throw away the extreme results at either end and average the bunched results. See if it differs significantly from left to right. For the slip-out angle it'll be a bit more difficult. You'll have to get two tyres where the surface area and depth of the two sets of knobblies differ in looks but are exactly the same otherwise. Then you'll have to apply a known force to each wheel and slowly tip it (on your preferred surface) until it slips out. Measure that angle and compare the two after you've taken away the "noise" in the experiment as described above. This would be a real world test. I've never seen any tyre manufacuter perform and publish the results of this test. [/quote'] On a small point of correction. Your test does not simulate (check I have fixed the spelling) real world conditions. TYre are not flattened onto a box in real world conditions (they are round. Pies are not square). So the contact surface will be considerably different when the tyre is Flattened out. Secondly, tyre are normally rolled over obstacles and srufaces and not dragged (unless you are braking hard, but then you will be over the handle bars) SO to simulate treall conditions you should use the complete wheel connected to a improvised cart which is then rolled over various surfaces at diferent speeds and angles. Data is then collected from how far the wheel rolls or how much dirt is displaced ext. I know you ae a stickler for correctness, and this is why I propose that your expeiment won't measure what you want it to ( relevancy)

Ox you should coat the block in honey before you start and "Roll it" on the kitchen floor to symulate hard back. (Check the wife face......)

so all this is market hype designed to part me from my money?

Interesting reading. But make to the initial remarks: Why should you respect the directional marking on the tyres: Well the clever developers designed it that way. As some one said, if you put LarsenTT on backwards you will wear the leading edge down to look like it should be. So way bother putting it on counter directional if you only going to wear the tyre out faster? Secondly, why more grip is needed on the front wheel? Because you steer with the front wheel! Obviiously you can slide the back wheel to change direction (but that would meen you would need less, not more lateral grip on the back wheel). The front wheel needs the lateral grip because you change direction (via steering) with the front wheel. If your weight is on the front wheel and you don't have grp there the front wheel faces the danger of washing out when you turn. (Now I await at least one flaming and two scientfic studies refuting of what I see as common sense)

the last one, because you can.

Tough t!t$ and chapped lips, and a hard bum.

TNT, I think it is a combination of braking power (needed by Mtb), on the route ease (if you hit something hard and bend the wheel) also more relevant to mtb) Easier to set up River crossing and dust. Most of these are not common on the road, where weight is a bit more of an issue than on the trail. ergo no disc on the road. Cyclo cross is starting to go disc though.

Its your bum, not mine.

Go dual sus while you can. Silverback, raleigh and mongoose are on the edge of a price war. (Zoon this is a big hint to preempt and drop the prices) Mongoose has a dual for under 10k.