MTBRIDER1234

Probably gonna get a lot of people disagreeing with me, but I like to bleed avid elexirs, they are simple and always feel lekker after you are done. I kinda dislike bleeding edge, but haven't used it enough to fairly judge.

Thanks for all the responses guys, I just wanted to say that I appreciate everyone's inputs. One of the reasons I like bikehub as a forum so much is that people are very willing and able to share advice and opinions in a friendly and constructive way.

I ride fairly hard means tokai DH line, hellsend jump and dh trails. I meant it to say that I ride harder than most, by far. I do not mind a long set-up, I am always tweaking my bike to make it feel the fastest and the most composed. Also I do agree that a lot of riders will never use the dampers to their maximum, but we definitely can use them to our advantage. I can firmly say that I have taken my motion control fork out of its comfort zone many times and have seen it get overwhelmed, and consequently not able to recover in time for the next hit. But it is an entry level damper so I guess that isn't the most rare occurence.

Thanks, I am building up an enduro bike so considering a 36/38 or lyrik/zeb. I also ride tokai very often, so hopefully that helps people give me advice that might be more relevant to where I ride. I was mainly just wondering which damper suits rocky and loose terrain best, as I know the charger rides higher in its travel but I also think the grip2 is more sensitive?

Howzit all, I am wondering which of the 2 dampers is more suited to the terrain found in tokai/stellies etc. I am a fairly hard rider and weigh 55 kg.

Thanks for the input Droo, coming off a solo air motion control revelation so it will probably feel better. Definitely going to upgrade to the charger 2.1 or the charger 3 (when available) in time. For now looking for a burly budget fork. My fork now is set up rock hard because I love to jump around on the trails, so it will probably feel super plush compared to my setup now haha

In my opinion, GX AXS is the way to go for electronic drive trains. Great value and when you smash a derailleur it costs 5 grand as opposed to 11 for the XX1 AXS. Only thing I dislike about AXS is the dead shifter feel.

Bump. they come specced on a fair number of E bikes, anybody got some feedback?

Ok cool. I wasn't implying that you are unintelligent or anything, just that I have seen many people tell me their 'new drive' (upgraded derailleur and shifter with worn chain) isn't shifting well, then I see the chain is at 0.6 to 0.8. Hope you are able to fix that shifting, as I know just how aggrivating it can be

Hey Steady, what wear is your chain on and roughly how many km's on the drive? Just sometimes people (including me) forget to check chain wear then go chasing all the screws when their shifting is crap.

Can't speak for the xc tires, but I know some of the pirelli enduro tires are HEAVY

Pretty sure the mounting bolt play still occurs with the new GX. But someone correct me if I am wrong please, also surely a cassette is durable enough to be ridden normally, unless you either ride from really long/ride every day or you are on a super tight budget, I can't see the point of not using the higher gears. They are after all there for a reason I guess

Don't you mean bikermouse848...

I have never had problems per se, but I have heard it develops mounting bolt play. In my opinion, get an xo1 derailleur if you can afford it or purchase the xx1 bolt kit. Otherwise a lekka good value drivetrain.

Rim damage is actually quite likely if you have a huge blowout. I have bent some ally rims to the point when the wheels needed retruing, and the side of the rims needed to be bent back. A lot of people underestimate the force of a tubeless blowout, but I can say the they ain't a joke.

check your PM.

Never had any issues with maxxis, been running 'em for years and 1000's of kms. Maybe you just got unlucky, but I also only run their trail/enduro tires with beefier casings.

I agree with all the things everyone has said here, good points and helpful advice from all. I would recommend the titan if you are looking for a light race weapon that can climb and descend fairly well (the 120mm cypher is IMHO way more versatile) but the scott for an all rounder. The scott is heavier and won't climb as nicely, but will be super fun when pointed down. Up to you, but my ideal xc bike would be the 120mm cypher with carbon wheels - it will climb like a beast and be pretty fun on singletrack. I hope that helped somewhat and happy riding!

Howzit all, I have been looking for a cheapish fork for my enduro bike build and I have found the domain. It looks really solid and can always be upgraded to a charger damper; which essentially makes it a heavier zeb. Just wondering if anyone here has used it, and what their thoughts are? Cheers

Cool, and good luck with your new fork. Maybe after you have tried fitting a 2.35 you could share pictures here for anybody facing the same problem. happy riding!

Unless you are dead set on not couriering it, @droo from stoke can do a lekker job. Had a few forks and droppers rebuilt at them and they felt better than new.

My opinion is that if money is no object, get the PYGA mobu. Best carbon frame around and is local with good parts support.

maybe they menat 76mm? Because 760mm is 3 quarters of a meter haha

Yoh, I need me a fork that has 761mm tire clearance! I could run a truck tire lol All jokes aside, like Morne said, I can't see any reason it won't fit, as 2.35 tyres are pretty common in xc. Best thing to do is test fit it if you can to check mud shedding etc.

I would definitely take slacker, longer and lower geo for our trails. When it is rough, you want every extra bit of composure the bike has to offer. Looks like the scott is more versatile and has better geo. But Titan for parts availability an local is lekker!