Bjorn881

Yes from my experience! People shared the same experience online, but when you go onto Adidas's website, they recommend uprising half a size due to the new design implemented a year or two ago. I didn't find this to be the case though!

I am currently in Europe and needed to purchase myself a new pair of Addidas Five Ten Freerider Pro shoes but wasn't sure of the sizing with all the conflicting information online and could only order the shoes online. Hence I ordered two different sizes. I have a size UK 11 / EU 46 which I'm not taking, I can send the shoes back at no extra cost but I thought I would offer them up for sale here in case anyone is looking for a pair since they're the gold standard and unobtainable in SA! I took the size UK 10.5 / 45.33 EU shoe which is the size that I normally wear, as I know online it recommends taking a size bigger, I found this wasn't the case for me! I also have raised arches hence I have to wear orthotics which generally mean I need a bigger shoe, but the UK 10.5 / EU 45.33 size which I normally wear, fit me perfectly! If anyone is interested in them, I'm leaving the Netherlands tomorrow, so you have until 07:30 tomorrow morning to WhatsApp and EFT me. I will be back in SA from June the 24th. The colour is as per the photo below. My number is 083 four four two 0601. I know this is unconventional to post an ad like this, but I don't have much time and I know how I struggled with my current MTB shoes hence thought I would see if I can help anyone else out! I'm looking for R2000, the shoes cost me 114 Euros with shipping, so I'm essentially covering my costs.

Those are the Leatt 3.0 shoes, when I go to Europe in June I'm going to purchase myself a pair of the Five Ten Freerider Pros!

I ended up purchasing a pair of the Leatt 3.0 as well and I share the same sentiments as you! Within months my soles started disintegrating! This is how they currently look!

I'm all for supporting local, but the fact that people are offering you their old ones for free should tell you everything you need to know about the product! The Foamo literally drinks sealant and offers very minimal protection IMO. I subsequently went with the large Vittoria airliners front and rear. Now the Cushcore Pro is also available, both of these are great options! I ride Enduro and ride relatively hard and have seen numerous friends mangle their rims! The way I look at it is that while the Airliner or Pro insert will probably set you back just over R3k for the front and rear, it is still substantially cheaper than a new rim, spokes etc, plus you also avoid that hassle and having your ride ruined! The added weight doesn't bother me, that piece of mind from running the insert and protecting my rim is well worth it! Running an insert also offers you more support and lets you run lower pressures and prevents pinch flats hence IMO I'd go for the insert vs a heavier casing!

Glad you managed to sort your issue out! I had the exact same issue on my Industry 9 Torch hub, took me ages to identify where the sound was coming from!I also initially thought it was my BB and checked all the bearings which had been recently serviced, I eventually isolated it to the rear hub after swapping out wheels, recommendation from 2x LBS was that the cause was the freehub and that it needed to be replaced! I managed to find a used freehub, but the issue persisted and eventually the hub "seized" in that it wouldn't rotate without a lot of force/friction whilst giving off a horrendous grinding sound! I subsequently managed to source and buy a new freehub at a cool R2900 (20% more expensive than a complete Lyne hub🥲) from the new agents, only for that clicking/grinding noise to still be there to a much lesser extent on! I subsequently took it off and bought a new Lyne hub in the meantime so I could continue riding! It was frustrating not knowing what was wrong especially as I had just purchased the new freehub at considerable cost! I eventually managed to get around to taking the complete hub to Stoke Suspension this week, who within seconds identified that the drive ring had cracked and was causing the issue! They're now assisting in sourcing a new drive ring and the special tool required to remove and install the new drive ring!

I have decided I want to also run a 200mm rotor on the rear of my Enduro bike, I'm currently using Sram Code RSC brakes. When looking at the price of rotors, Shimano and TRP are similar in price however Sram is about 50% more than the aforementioned brands, are the Sram rotors worth the extra cash? Do they perform better/last longer? Alternatively is there another brand I should look at?

Search for a group on Facebook called Slow Coach, they organise rides at various locations around Cape Town (although the majority are in Durbanville) and have a beginners group!

As the title states, I have searched other forums but can't seem to find a solution. Before chucking out my Spez Phenom saddle, has anyone found a reliable method to reinsert a rail back into a saddle that has popped out?

I was at Blacksheep bikes a month ago and IIRC they had stock!

Is there a link to the event page/organisers to stay up to date as more information is released?

I consider the Tokai trails to be so safe that I ride there regularly during the week on my own! All the safety concerns arise on the tarred roads eg Steenberg/Retreat etc!

Thank you for all the advice, after thinking it over I concur that an impact big enough to rip out a pedal unfortunately justifies new crank arms. It's mildly annoying that 90% of new cranks come with a mandatory chain-ring hence increasing the cost! Anyway I opted to go for the Rapide StrongArm SL Crank arms which come without a chain-ring which kept the cost down as I'm not bothered by the difference of just over 200g weight difference between the Sram XX1 and Rapide Alloy cranks.

I took a big rock strike today, which unfortunately stripped one of my Sram XX1 cranks to such a degree that the pedal subsequently fell out after a bit of riding. Unfortunately a new Sram XX1 crankset is out of the question, even the Gx crankset at R3k is eye watering! I see Rapide sell a set of cranks without the chain-ring for a much more palatable R1k, is this a good option!? I'm not particularly concerned about the crank weight as I mainly ride Trail/Enduro trails! Are there any other brands that I should be looking at? Alternatively if its feasible, where would one go to have the stripped thread removed from the crank and a new thread installed?

I'm looking for feedback on peoples experiences with the various brands of MTB tyre inserts such as Csixx Foamo, Vittoria Airliner, CushCore etc! I'm looking for feedback mainly on the added rim protection especially the cost vs benefit as some inserts cost more than a tyre, as well as how it adjusted the feel of the ride! I'm planning on using the inserts for Enduro riding!