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  1. I have decided I want to also run a 200mm rotor on the rear of my Enduro bike, I'm currently using Sram Code RSC brakes. When looking at the price of rotors, Shimano and TRP are similar in price however Sram is about 50% more than the aforementioned brands, are the Sram rotors worth the extra cash? Do they perform better/last longer? Alternatively is there another brand I should look at?
  2. My current brake set up on my bike are entry level Shimano BR M447 Calipers and BL 445 Lever. They work perfectly fine but I am not a huge fan of the ergonomics of the brake levers and rather than upgrading the entire set up I am looking to only change the levers. I am considering getting some DEORE BL-M6100 Levers which would be a nice upgrade. Is there any technical reason why I should not do this swap. I know I will be running different calipers than what Shimano recommends but is there a technical reason why I cannot just upgrade the levers? Are the internal diameter of the pistons different or the throw of the calipers? The small amount of research I did suggests that this is not recommended but I cannot think of a reason why it would not work.
  3. Hey everyone im busy building up a pyga slakline and for the time being I am going to be using 2 pot brakes but I want to upgrade my budget is under 5k any ideas?
  4. I recently bought a Scott hardtail MTB from Cyclelab. Whilst I enjoy riding the bike, I feel the brakes are not as good as the Shimano's on my wife's bike. I don't want to buy a new set of brakes (just yet) and am considering upgrading the rotors to either 180mm or 203's. I know I can't just fit these rotors on; I need some sort of adapter for the calliper. A few questions: 1. Would this be a worth while upgrade or should I wait until I upgrade the whole brake set in a few months time (Maybe longer than that) 2. Where can I get the needed adaptors? 3. What's the recommended brake pads these days for trail riding? Thanks all!
  5. Hi there. I need some advice please. I have Shimano XTR brakes which I have bled (flushed front and rear and added new mineral oil) but it still feels spongy. I have new pads at the rear and measured both the rotors at 1.65mm. Left the bike upright for about a day with the screws open on the levers to let any air bubbles out. Topped up with fluid. Also tried inserting the fluid from the bottom and the top, but neither seems to work. Not sure what to do anymore. Can anyone perhaps assist please? TIA
  6. Hi Bikehub family. Hoping you can help me with this question. Recently purchased an older 2001 De Rosa Vega Merak from a hubber here. Wanting to slowly upgrade it. List of decisions: - opt for lighter wheels - carbon WHY or those amazing Campy Shamal HPW 12 Titanium bits that used to come on colnagos from the same era: >> Installed and fitted the Shamals for now - carbon bits much later... - Carbon seatpost >> To Do - Convert current mixed older 105/Tiagra groupset set up for more moodern 105/Ultegra groupset >> To Do - Convert brake calipers from older 105 to Bontrager or WHY Direct mount brake calipers >> To Do. This is where I need your advice. Is it even possible? I mean I want to believe that the fork could be modified as it is aluminium, but... - would that mess up the structural integrity of the fork? - Thinking that direct mount calipers would put the fork and rear seat stays under new pressures but is that okay? - Can I drill into the fork (it is thick enough in surface area)? Seeking your help to understand what I should consider here, Thanks, Chris
  7. So, I have a pair of Fulcrum Racing Zero Nite wheels that I've been riding since December. Fantastic wheels. However, I have had constant issues with noisy brakes. I have replaced the brake pads which had worn down very quickly with the recommended Blue Campagnolo pads. The brake pads squeal like a Vuvuzela as soon as they start to grip. I have cleaned and adjusted them multiple times, but to no avail. Please help!!!
  8. Whats is the difference in Sintered vs Organic pads Which are you guys running, I do a lot of trail riding? I have metallic pads in but the keep glazing the rotor and then I have to clean and sand the pads and rotor again
  9. I wish I didn't have to do maintenance on that bike anymore as everything is getting very old, but my girlfriend loves that bike. Anyway, I noticed that the rear brake lever was kind of too high and engaging the rotor too soon with very little travel so I decided to do some maintenance after about 4 years of neglect. So I bought brand new DOT 5.1 fluid, I totally drained the circuit, gave the calipers and pistons a good clean and followed the standard tedious Avid bleeding process in the manual. I also made use of the bleed blocks. There is a step in the process where the lever is pulled all the way and then gradually released while pressing the syringe on the rear caliper side. I noticed too much resistance from the lever (compared to the front brake) but I managed to get it back in position and made sure the rest of the process was done properly and no bubbles where left inside. At the end the result was not much different to what the problem was before the bleeding. There's very little travel when the lever is pulled and it engages the rotor almost instantly. I wonder if there are parts inside the lever that would need maintenance as well to make the lever action smooth and responsive again or should I rather toss these brakes? The front brake has no issues and the bleeding process was normal. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  10. Hi! My wheel has no "freewheel" after replacing my my formula break pads in fact it feels like I'm dragging the brakes. It seems like they are too "thick" as in not to spec, the rotor gets between but in with a rather too tight for comfort fit. My rotors aren't warped and I pushed the pistons back carefully during installation (I've done this on various cars many times over the years, yeah I know they bike would be far more delicate ;-) ) The pads I've replaced them with are a pair bought from Olympic Cycles here in Cape Town by www.definitivebikes.com I'm not quite sure what to do apart from putting the old pads in for now, they have about 1mm on them. Comparing the old pads vs the new ones: Base thickness 2.1 mm for both Base shape, identical Overall thickness New 4mm, Old 3mm (of course this is wear) Any advice / help would be appreciated. Thanks, Greg
  11. [i did a quick search and didnt find a thread dedicated to this, if there is, sorry for this and please direct me to it.] Shifter mounting + Brake mounting =.........the challenge of finding the right matchmaker (and there are MILLION variables) AND it can change your "ah let me quickly do a brake set change" to a long night of research and scratching in your spare parts bins. Now something that can puzzle me at 11pm is how to fit my new SRAM Guide brakes to my Shimano XT shifter. I had Hope brakes before and that needed its own 'matchmaker'. I thought there should be a thread here on the hub with pics of how to do these things, a summary where anyone can come to find what ever they need (so please add stuff if you have more info). Patches are the guy to actually do this (he likes writing long posts with pictures etc etc) but it seems like I asked some questions he didnt even know so I will start and throw a few things in that I have found in the last few hours. So the XT shifter I bought (i-spec), it looks like: See the problem? Yes, nothing nice and round that can go around the bar, because it is made to go nicely onto a Shimano brake like so: But because I planned to use it with Hope brakes, I bougth the Hope matchmaker back then, it mounts on shifter like so: And to the bar like so: There are obviously plenty of shifter options and plenty of brake options and yes you can mount them seperately, which is what I considered next. Which would look like this for the brake: And well something like this for the shifter: or where it seems you need/can use one of these: Which does leave you with a 'busy bar' but I am SO desperate to get these damn brakes on that I would have let it happen...IF I had one of those options avaible ...SADLY I dont!!! Here is where the frustation started at 11:30pm last night. And no, you can not mount the shifter with the hope matchmaker and the top half that came with the Hope lever assembly, because neither have thread. Refering to these two parts: So the option I then started looking at is the matchmaker option with the XT shifter and SRAM brake. So it looks like here alone are quite a few options too. Here is what I think will get my bike sorted asap: (I actually think I might have the right little one piece somewhere at home...if not, I might find a friend that do (before day end). Patch did tell me about this website, but I dont think they can help me as fast as I need it: http://problemsolversbike.com/products/mismatch_adapters Randomly here are other options I have found with Hope brakes: More reading: http://www.braggibikes.com/mixmatch/ At least the guides and dropper post lever was easy going...match/love at 1st sight... And this is just great for 'unclutered' bars: Edit 1: 11pm = night..think it is called a tautology
  12. Is there any reason not to use a Sram Level lever with a Guide calliper? The hose fittings are the same, but I’m wondering if there might be a difference in leverage ratios or something. Externally the levers look like they probably have similar piston bores.
  13. Which one of these 2 are the lightest? Thoughts on both sets?
  14. Hi fellow hubbers, Ok so I recently changed my front rotor to 180mm from 160mm standard rotor using a Shimamo post mount adaptor 160/180 and 180mm rotor by Definitive Bikes (new parts from LBS). Bearing in mind that the 160mm setup worked 110% fine, no air in the system, pads are still good, etc. using BR-M615 Deore brakeset on Titan 27.5 hardtail with Mavic front wheel 15mm bolt thru. Centered the caliper and all seemed good until bedding in the brakes. As you pull the brake lever the brakes will either be solid and work correctly or, depending on where the the pads bite as the rotor rotates, the there will be what I can only called a feeling of the rotor slipping, biting, slipping, biting until it locks up or one stops. (at a higher speed this feels like pulsing or vibration) This is what I've checked so far... Pad spacing/advancement Realigned caliper Checked rotor bolts Cleaned pads and rotor (rotor cleaned with brake cleaner and pads sanded/cleaned using +- 1000grit paper) Swapped rear / front pads (problem persists in front - rear stays smooth and solid) Re-checked pad spacing in relation to rotor 160mm rotor had around half mm of side movement as wheel turned but never slipped, 180mm rotor seems to have same side movement as the wheel turns but just does not bite at certain points in the rotation. Definitive Bikes brand is a lower cost alternative to the higher end products and I have subsequent bought a SM-RT56 Deore rotor which I don't want to install before getting some thoughts/advice.
  15. So I bought a set of M675 SLX brakes after reading rave reviews about them. I have been very impressed with them, they are easy to use, have great stopping power and fit well with my XT 1x11 setup. I have the option to pt on some Sram Guide RS brakes. Why? Because I can. I ride mostly enduro type riding, so a lot of downhill and technical type stuff. I am led to believe the Guides have better feel/modulation to them and they are just as powerful as the SLX. The main difference is the brake fluid being used between the 2. My main reason for considering the change is heat build up and brake fade when things get hot. Does anyone here have experience with these 2 setups and can comment on which is the better for enduro?
  16. Hey Hubbers, The Story: Recently I bailed coming into a singletrack - my bar clipped a tree and I left my bike behind, bailing over the bars. While I was all good, my bike wasn't so much... not that I knew at the time. I picked him up and kept on riding, when I noticed 2 things: My brake lever was shuddering in my handMy brake lever was very close to my gripsSo I stopped at the bottom, and inspected my bike: 1) Rotor was kinked heavily, 2) the rotor was pushing a piston back in every rotation, and 3) my sexy shiny caliper had a few scratches on it... Got over it, took the rotor off on the side of the trail and knocked the kink out with a rock, so it cleared the pistons, and kept riding for the rest of the day. The problem: After bleeding my caliper, all seems to work 100%. After riding around for a week, 100%. As soon as I lift my bike upright to squeeze past the cars in my garage, the brake loses all of its power. On inspection, there is a fair amount of leaked brake fluid on my frame (a few blobs). So I'm wanting to know, is there any DIY fix for this? If not, anyone know where I can get a caliper parts kit in Cape Town? Like this one: http://www.jensonusa.com/Avid-X0-Trail-Caliper-Parts-Kit Looks like some bog standard o-rings and seals so I'm hoping to not spend too much more (on cycling in general ). Any advice would be much appreciated! Would love to have a worry-free ride this weekend.
  17. Hey Guys First thread on here so take it easy on me haha... I have a Cannondale Trail 29 Hardtail. Used to ride a bit of DH at varsity (I sucked, good at crashing though.) and then focused on paddling and running the last 8-10 years. I decided to get back onto a bike cos it's fun and you can do such a cool mix of long explorey days and cool techy trail rides. Anyway, I bought my budget Cannondale Hardtail with tubeless done and the front derailleur removed by the previous owner as he was just using it to keep miles off his fancy bike for beachfront rides etc. I got it for R 9 500 only a year old in immaculate shape. So its 1x10 SLX and has the Shimano branded but no specific name (SLX / Deore etc) brakes. I manage 95% of the time with the 1x10 as he put on a 40t big cog - spin out on the downs obviously but that's fine. 34t chainring. I've done close to 100km days pretty comfortably and I manage most of the steep tech stuff ok too. I think that 1x11 would obviously be better if I want to do some stage / longer 1 day races. The brakes are also adequate but not much more than that. What sort of price would I be able to pick up a SLX 11 speed rear derailleur and cassette and some better brakes? Happy to trawl the used section of the hub until I can find something! I've put on wider Ritchey bars and a shorter (50mm) stem as it's a large and I'm probably in between M and L frames. Do you think it's worthwhile? I'm happy and comfortable on my bike and riding some pretty decent distances / speeds and technical stuff so don't feel the need to go full sus any time soon due to extra cost and service requirements etc.
  18. So Sram have updated the codes and beefed them a bit. Check Pink bikes 1st ride with them mounted on a Slash. Personally I've been waiting for these so will be good to know what they are going to go for. https://www.pinkbike.com/news/srams-new-code-brakes-first-ride-2017.html
  19. Hi Guys, I should start by saying that until this weekend, I haven't been on a bike in about 13 years (since school days) when a Raleigh M-Trax was the coolest thing around, so please forgive me if my knowledge is a little limited and perhaps leads to me asking dumb questions. I promise I'm a quick learner A good friend of mine gave me a GT Avalanche 0.0 (I know, old as balls) to get back in the swing of things, and ever since he told me that I'll be getting it, I've been looking at what it's got, and what I might like to change. The first of these would be replacing the current v-brakes with some entry level disk brakes. The frame and hubs are good to go in terms of fitment possibilities (shimano hubs with 6x bolt fitment), but my question pertains to the brake levers currently on the bike, and how replacing these will affect the fitment of my existing shifters. From what I could see, the existing shifters are fitted to the brake levers, which in turn are fitted to the bar. The nature of this fitting is still foreign to me, as is whether, and if and if so, which hydraulic lever will enable me to maintain this fitting? The Deore range is pretty vast in terms of models, and I have no idea what to look for in terms of being able to retain my existing shifters. I realize that the bike is worth about R4.65 and fitting anything other than a smiley face sticker to it might be overcapitalizing, seeing as Gumtree is rife with second hand bikes with disc brakes fitted for less than the average disc brake kit, but I'm just exploring the possibility in the hopes that someone rips their stock brakes off to upgrade, and then sells it to me for a steal Thanks, and have a good one!
  20. My magura MT6 right lever cracked and is unable to hold any fluid, ive been quoted 3k for a new lever, cable and caliper. I was wondering if there was a cheaper way to fix this, or should i spend the 3k on a newish brake set?
  21. http://www.buildabikesa.com/product/brake-bleeding-course/ Guys who have attended my basic repair courses have asked for it, now available for booking. Learn how to bleed your Shimano brakes, or any other brake using mineral oil hydraulic fluid. Price will be R650, space limited to 4 people. Syringes, tubing and oil included in the price. When should you bleed your brakes? When the lever starts to feel spongyIf you shortened the hose and some air entered the system (or if you need to shorten the hose)If you pulled the brake lever without the wheel in place and one or both of the pistons popped out and leaked fluid.
  22. I want to upgrade from XT M785 brakes to Guide..... Question! What is the major difference between Guide RSC and Ultimate? If I'm correct the Ultimate have carbon levers and calipers? Weight of both and heavier than XT? Advice and feedback will be highly appreciated. Sorry if there are already a topic like this
  23. Hey guys, Just looking for some advice. I have a Cannonade F29 running Magura Mt2 brakes. Experiencing bad vibration and shudder when pulling the rear brake on descents. Vibration is enough that I feel it through the frame and up through the saddle. I've had them serviced, re-bled and had the disc checked. Have sanded down and cleaned up the brake pads and used alcohol to clean the disc. These solutions work for the first couple of minutes on a ride, then its back to the shudder. I have reduced power and hence not much confidence in coming to a stop. Is there anything else I should try, otherwise thinking of replacing them with some SLX's or something similar. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks!
  24. Hi Hubbers! I'm curious to know the stats on which brakes are most popular in SA. Please vote and discuss in the thread
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